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Posted: Fri Jul 03, 2009 7:59 am
by Bingham
hopefully with the raw horsepower of the td42 we can keep it this cool!
Posted: Fri Jul 03, 2009 9:17 am
by chimpboy
ozrunner wrote:It now runs way too COLD. So far I have fitted the hottest thermostat available yet it's still too cold.
It shouldn't be able to run cold if the thermostat's working properly, should it?
Love your engine bay, that is what they should all look like
Posted: Fri Jul 03, 2009 1:49 pm
by hammey
I recently bought a PWR large 2 pass offroad race rad to be mounted on the back of the car, and it was the quality twin thermo's that really tipped the price.
list price was $594 for twin 16" 3000cfm
just an idea on price. I was quoted $1850 direct from PWR for the package and the Repco buy in price was $1280.
Try going through repco as their purchasing power is big, if it's no good you can go down the road to return it and the price difference is obvious.
cheers smitty
Posted: Mon Jul 06, 2009 8:41 am
by Bingham
Gents could i trouble you for a number for race radiators please.???
Cheers $1086 +gst + freight on pwr that rrp anyways which is certainly not cheap!
Posted: Mon Jul 06, 2009 9:22 am
by Bingham
just called the race radiators mob, said for the gu they actually buy the cores from pwr so suggested they still be 1000 or 1100 as they re yank supplier has not yet made a core big enough but they working on it. Still be couple of months away. Suggested they have only fitted about 6 of these units to gus in last 12 months but no come backs .
Suggested possibly 850 when they can source cores elsewhere.
Any other brands or do i start haggle mode on a pwr..
Posted: Mon Jul 06, 2009 10:14 am
by Bingham
$1179 incl plus 25 freight trade prce from repco
Posted: Tue Jul 21, 2009 9:42 am
by Bingham
Ended up with $1150 incl and incl freight from repco for the 99 00 turbo diesel radiator from pwr. 0381 i think it was... Looks trick in any case...
Please no one tell me they get them for cheaper or i will cry
pick up today and goes in sat.... this thing had better run the big dual cab patrol ice cold
for the money or i will be pissed !!!! Ryano sorted me cousin some rubber then vanbox got me a 2nd hand snorkel and if only the boys who advertise turbos for sale on outers were made to add phone number i might actually be contactable so able to buy a whistler
Really am putting my hopes and dreams in this radiator
if it works plenty of bad publicity if it doesnt
Posted: Sun Jul 26, 2009 12:39 pm
by Bingham
people who have bought these...
q1, did it come with any guidelines instructions/ any literature?
q2 did it come with a threaded spout for over flow?
tried install yest and was fuming to find that it did not have and 100km and 6 shops later ended up have to buy from a random guy some of his personall fitting for nos kit type setup... only thing with correct thread...
was not happy... nearlly 1200 on radiator and no adaptions...
Posted: Sun Jul 26, 2009 2:29 pm
by shortyq
ozrunner wrote:Well since my post in Jan I have fitted my custom PWR rad and I am now running in a new engine ready for a rechip etc.
But there is a HUGE problem.
It now runs way too COLD. So far I have fitted the hottest thermostat available yet it's still too cold.
My previous rad was a copper 50mm double core and this one is a 32mm single core and the engine is a 347 and not short on HP, so yep I'm pretty happy with PWR
have you thought of restricting the air flow!
has any1 herd of just alloy radiators?
Posted: Sun Aug 02, 2009 4:11 pm
by 8UFF35T
shortyq wrote:ozrunner wrote:Well since my post in Jan I have fitted my custom PWR rad and I am now running in a new engine ready for a rechip etc.
But there is a HUGE problem.
It now runs way too COLD. So far I have fitted the hottest thermostat available yet it's still too cold.
My previous rad was a copper 50mm double core and this one is a 32mm single core and the engine is a 347 and not short on HP, so yep I'm pretty happy with PWR
have you thought of restricting the air flow!
has any1 herd of just alloy radiators?
he maybe have a massive bonnet scoop, looks clean and i would hate to get that dirty
Posted: Sun Aug 02, 2009 5:30 pm
by chimpboy
chimpboy wrote:ozrunner wrote:It now runs way too COLD. So far I have fitted the hottest thermostat available yet it's still too cold.
It shouldn't be able to run cold if the thermostat's working properly, should it?
Love your engine bay, that is what they should all look like
... still makes no sense to me. No matter how awesome your radiator is, if your thermostat is working properly your engine cannot run too cool. Or at least I can't see how...
Posted: Sun Aug 02, 2009 10:51 pm
by ozrunner
Sorry guys I missed your posts.
q1, did it come with any guidelines instructions/ any literature?
What instructions do you need to bolt in a rad
q2 did it come with a threaded spout for over flow?
Yes and a pressure relief rad cap
I've now sourced and fitted a 195F (90.5C) thermostat and it is better although still only gets to around 180F (82C) max although the weather has not been super warm so that's not too bad as I reckon it probably will go a tad higher in hotter weather but ideally it should be hotter for efi.
Nope no scoops etc and I've always used air con in summer
Posted: Mon Aug 03, 2009 6:19 pm
by Bingham
was not specificaly after install instructions just wondering if all the bits came in a package that they forgot to add which ended up being the case also............ i got no radiator cap and no overflow spout so they posted spout but never relised should be new cap as standard one was letting some water out.
apart from those bits its in and running and patrol not shifted off half even up the beach getting fairly well worked so very happy so far.
Posted: Wed Sep 16, 2009 8:28 pm
by Bingham
pwr appologised for the stuff up and posted bits radiator cap and a shirt and cap to sweet talk us
have to say gents.... radiator went in and never been able to tow fark all without getting warm then pre turbo towed car trailer and jimny on it ..... never moved then been getting hammer up beach and no warming...
then denco gone on the truck and same again flogged up beach to test it and pyro temps and radiator never moved...
have to say am more than impressed with the PWR product to date. wish i had put it in my last overheating GQ..... Good Work PWR
Posted: Wed Sep 16, 2009 9:16 pm
by mudbasher2
Make sure you run a earth strap from your alloy radiator to stop electrolysis. I didn't and within 18 months the core had corroded and the radiator needed replacing
Posted: Thu Sep 17, 2009 12:08 am
by awill4x4
mudbasher2 wrote:Make sure you run a earth strap from your alloy radiator to stop electrolysis. I didn't and within 18 months the core had corroded and the radiator needed replacing
Wrong.
Radiators should never be earthed. Have a look at just how far manufacturers have gone to ensure the radiator is not earthed on all modern cars.
Your electrolysis problems obviously stem from a different problem, probably stray current or mixing coolants.
Regards Andrew.
Posted: Thu Sep 17, 2009 8:32 am
by NCpaj
awill4x4 wrote:mudbasher2 wrote:Make sure you run a earth strap from your alloy radiator to stop electrolysis. I didn't and within 18 months the core had corroded and the radiator needed replacing
Wrong.
Radiators should never be earthed. Have a look at just how far manufacturers have gone to ensure the radiator is not earthed on all modern cars.
Your electrolysis problems obviously stem from a different problem, probably stray current or mixing coolants.
Regards Andrew.
yep what he said, im pretty sure this was coverd before in another 'alloy radiator' thread.
If you have a look at new cars youll find that the radiator supports are rubber- this helps keep the radiator isolated and helps with vibration.