plenty of comp guys have been running 60 series diffs with great success (my wife make this cheese)Raski wrote:Thanks for the posts guys.
Anyone here actually run a 60 Series diff or Diffs Hard?
I think i'll end up with a budget setup like Shadow described.
Or am I better off looking around for F truck Diffs, There are always some on the trading posts over here I'm sure I'll be able to get a D60 rear and D44 Front, Not to sure about a D60 Front. How do the 44's rate?
Decisions, You boys make it easier... Keep it coming.
Notice: We request that you don't just set up a new account at this time if you are a previous user.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
If you used to be one of our moderators, please feel free to reach out to Chris via the facebook Outerlimits4x4 group and he will get you set back up with access should he need you.
Recovery:If you cannot access your old email address and don't remember your password, please click here to log a change of email address so you can do a password reset.
Few Diff Questions
Moderators: toaddog, TWISTY, V8Patrol, Moderators
Yeah last I knew ARB has an airlocker for the 9".Shadow wrote:thats true, they have a lower entry with thier pinion which gives a better gear mesh with more contact area, the pinion is also longer and has better support.Slunnie wrote:Why? Genuine question.clm434 wrote:Would it? I'm not convinced on that one.Shadow wrote:cause to make a 9" centre as strong as a 60 series centre would cost 2-3 times as much as a 60 series centre.Dirty wrote:What about grafting a set of D60 outers onto a 9" housing?
There will be some locally made 9" housings coming onto ebay shortly.
- David.
I could be wrong, but I thought that I'd read that the Ford 9" has a greater offset on the pinion than the Toyota which will give greater strength.
problem with them is broken cases themselves, ive heard of quite a few doing it. If you go a brand new aftermarket case then they are strong and wont break.
Trouble is, the case alone will cost more than a 60 series housing complete.
And then, the 9" pinion is lower thena 60 series which can give alot more grief.
To build a 60 series diff.
Take a standard 60 serires diff, can get one complete for no more than $300.
Throw in a set of longfield 30 spline super axles and an arb airlocker, weld some trussing, and you have a diff that the comp guys find very hard to break for about $2k. Brakes are already good enough.
And if you do manage to break something, you have a spare complete housing out the back for another $300 to steal parts from.
Is there an airlocker available for a 9" ? Would you even consider spending that sort of money, and putting up with an autolocker?
All aus delivered 60 series are full floaters (assume your talking rear).
4.11 is the standard gear set, can go up to 5.9 i think ive read, but far easier to put a set of gears in your transfer case and keep your standard gears.
Plenty of good condition R&P available as over half the 60 series sold probably turned the front diff for no more than 10,000ks.
also, what cv's / hubs are you using in your 9" ?? Custom cv's?
Unsure of the axle diameters (have read amythong around 1.7" or 1.8"), Strange and Moser both make exceptional axles without the need to go floaters anyway for around the $800 mark I think they are. And I haven't heard of a nodular iron carrier being cracked yet so they must be good.
So you could take off 2.5k for the floater kit and full spool and add a grand for the air locker and its still only around the 2-4k range.
Unsure if there is a standard 9" steer diff available from F trucks or something, but if you cutting and fabing a frankenstein 9" you may as well do both ends
[quote="Ruffy"]P.S. woober woober is a technical term describing the audible tone emitted from harmonic air vibration.[/quote]
F/S Holden V6 auto to Mitsu kit incl exhaust for Triton conversion.
F/S Holden V6 auto to Mitsu kit incl exhaust for Triton conversion.
A rear 60 diff is close to the same as the rear diffs in 40,55,60,70,80 and the same as the front as some of those models, and there are a fair few out there that get a workout under a variety of rigs.Raski wrote:Thanks for the posts guys.
Anyone here actually run a 60 Series diff or Diffs Hard?
I think i'll end up with a budget setup like Shadow described.
Or am I better off looking around for F truck Diffs, There are always some on the trading posts over here I'm sure I'll be able to get a D60 rear and D44 Front, Not to sure about a D60 Front. How do the 44's rate?
Decisions, You boys make it easier... Keep it coming.
Z()LTAN wrote:thats because the 80s front is a hilux dif...
actually it's not a hulix diff at all.
A hilux front is a hilux rear. it spins on the wrong direction. (while driving a hilux front forwards you are actualy driving onthe coast side of the gear, not the drive side.
the 80 has reverse helix gears so that it spins in the right direction.
80 is high pinion hilux has low pinion.
http://www.mothfukle-engineering.com/
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 4 guests