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intercooling a hilux
Moderators: toaddog, Elmo, DUDELUX
beinthemud wrote:dunno bout anyone else but last thing id want to do is inject water in to the intake of my diesel so methonol would be better
read into it cobber. id prefer to inject water than just methonol... its usualy water with about 10% methonol mixed in. in a fine mist, water does combust, it is hydrogen and oxygen after all. its not puting a huge amount in and it wont hydrolock your engine. research it, its more common than you think...
[quote="Barnsey"]
Bronwyn Bishop does it for me.[/quote]
Bronwyn Bishop does it for me.[/quote]
That is a common mistake. Water is not combustible when used in water injection. It's purpose is to cool the intake charge which increases the density. Compression in the engine is also increased as you have water vapor in the cylinder. This system was originally designed for aircraft engines and the reason methanol was added was to reduce the freezing point of the water. Obviously the methanol burns in the combustion process.macca81 wrote: read into it cobber. id prefer to inject water than just methanol... its usualy water with about 10% methonol mixed in. in a fine mist, water does combust, it is hydrogen and oxygen after all. its not puting a huge amount in and it wont hydrolock your engine. research it, its more common than you think...
This is the only link I could find that gives a half decent description http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Water_injection_(engines)
Also thehanko you can get water sprayers for your intercooler that work via evaporative cooling. Evo's use this system.
Ben
I have seen several aftermarket ct20 rebuild kits available at very fair prices.beinthemud wrote:not realy talking about being bigger after rebuilding 3 ct20s i learnt i should have just got a t25 because itll cost you around $800 to rebuid a ct20 cause you can only use toyota parts
My intercooler should arrive this week after finally getting the ebay mob to understand english.
fingers crossed.
*there's a rock, drive over it :) there's a bigger rock, drive over it :twisted: there's an even bigger rock, oops broke it :oops: Upgrade broken bit :bad-words:
Goto *
Goto *
yeah, cheers.
I go it dynoed before i bought it - paid the extra in the purchase price. only to find out later that it was only making 3psi out of the turbo... waste of money.
once the cooler is on and egt guage fitted I'm hoping a tweek of the fuel should help it pull that bit better up top.
catch ya
I go it dynoed before i bought it - paid the extra in the purchase price. only to find out later that it was only making 3psi out of the turbo... waste of money.
once the cooler is on and egt guage fitted I'm hoping a tweek of the fuel should help it pull that bit better up top.
catch ya
*there's a rock, drive over it :) there's a bigger rock, drive over it :twisted: there's an even bigger rock, oops broke it :oops: Upgrade broken bit :bad-words:
Goto *
Goto *
i like granborismo's and Dougster's skyline cooler idea, cheap and readily available.
i am now on the hunt for one to intercool my lux aswell
anyone wanna pick this up for me and post it for a few dollars
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/NISSAN-SKYLINE-R ... 240%3A1318
i am now on the hunt for one to intercool my lux aswell
anyone wanna pick this up for me and post it for a few dollars
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/NISSAN-SKYLINE-R ... 240%3A1318
Last edited by Mattoz on Mon Feb 23, 2009 6:52 pm, edited 1 time in total.
If you do you will need a 2nd one to steal an end tank from.Mattoz wrote:i like granborismo's and Dougster's skyline cooler idea, cheap and readily available.
As std. 1 tank enters in line with the cooler & 1 tank exits down underneath the cooler. You will need 2 that run in line.
91' Hilux Surf with the usual mods & a few different ones ....
Coil SAS by www.budscustoms.com.au
Coil SAS by www.budscustoms.com.au
My IC arrived ...
its gonna take a bit of work to fit. its fairly big. a bit longer than ideal but ill make it work.
i need to make a new bonnet scoop, inc modifiying my current bonnet as the IC will sit off center. cut and extend the cross pipe so it reaches to the end of the ic. make some brackets to mount it in. sort out some rubber to seal it to the bonnet to force the air flow through it.
then later a heat shield and fan.
I have also thought about an interesting idea... I have one of the auber pyro guages - it has some in built functions for controlling industrial apps. Im pretty sure I could set it up to turn on a water jet over the core when egt's hit say 470 deg. basically so it helps keep it even cooler when pushing it at its hardest.
any thoughts.
its gonna take a bit of work to fit. its fairly big. a bit longer than ideal but ill make it work.
i need to make a new bonnet scoop, inc modifiying my current bonnet as the IC will sit off center. cut and extend the cross pipe so it reaches to the end of the ic. make some brackets to mount it in. sort out some rubber to seal it to the bonnet to force the air flow through it.
then later a heat shield and fan.
I have also thought about an interesting idea... I have one of the auber pyro guages - it has some in built functions for controlling industrial apps. Im pretty sure I could set it up to turn on a water jet over the core when egt's hit say 470 deg. basically so it helps keep it even cooler when pushing it at its hardest.
any thoughts.
*there's a rock, drive over it :) there's a bigger rock, drive over it :twisted: there's an even bigger rock, oops broke it :oops: Upgrade broken bit :bad-words:
Goto *
Goto *
I would spend every few minutes topping up the water resevoir if i did that. My boost guage is mechanical so no way of using it to turn on another circuit.Dougster wrote:Just a thought, it might be easier to set up the spray to come on when the boost hits say 8psi.
Ill do the normal set up to start with and see how i go.
cheers
*there's a rock, drive over it :) there's a bigger rock, drive over it :twisted: there's an even bigger rock, oops broke it :oops: Upgrade broken bit :bad-words:
Goto *
Goto *
T25's are better than CT20's, but at 25psi a T25 is well out of it's comfort zone.beinthemud wrote:ps ditch the ct20 for a honeywell garet ct25 , ct20 cant handle to much boost 12psi or less than 15psi ct25 can make 25psi all day from 500rpm to 4000 rpm .
I'm running one at 20psi on an isuzu diesel and that's about it's limit.
The T25 is one of the cheapest turbos to rebuild, kits of ebay are dirt cheap, I'm currently running one after an oil line incident required me to rebuild it.
turbos
No offence to anyone who likes to keep there rigs "all toyota", but toyota turbo's are over rated and underpowerd. yes they work but if you want to start spoooling at 1050rpm..... mitsubishi turbo's.
i put a tdo4 (about $950 to buy, another $800 to plumb) on my lux and it was the best present i ever gave her. get the injector pump rebuilt, and wound fuel up (about $500)... they hold there water in unfortunately. get your injectors rebuilt and wound up (about $225) front mount intercooler (about $650) and to handle the heat, you get a 2lt or 2lte oil cooler (under the exhaust manifold) they have a larger oil capacity.
I did this over a period of about 1 year and the power and torque it delivers is really impressive. it blows off the 4.2td cruisers, all your bt50's, rangers, colorado's, prados, navara's. roughly 155 to 165 kw. But i did port the head and get a reground cam ($500) if you know the right people.
If you just do one of these every month or so you'll se what i mean. and then you'll kick yourself for even bothering with toyota turbo. i rebuilt mine twice before i gave up.
i put a tdo4 (about $950 to buy, another $800 to plumb) on my lux and it was the best present i ever gave her. get the injector pump rebuilt, and wound fuel up (about $500)... they hold there water in unfortunately. get your injectors rebuilt and wound up (about $225) front mount intercooler (about $650) and to handle the heat, you get a 2lt or 2lte oil cooler (under the exhaust manifold) they have a larger oil capacity.
I did this over a period of about 1 year and the power and torque it delivers is really impressive. it blows off the 4.2td cruisers, all your bt50's, rangers, colorado's, prados, navara's. roughly 155 to 165 kw. But i did port the head and get a reground cam ($500) if you know the right people.
If you just do one of these every month or so you'll se what i mean. and then you'll kick yourself for even bothering with toyota turbo. i rebuilt mine twice before i gave up.
Wanted.... 4.88 or 4.56 front GQ diff center. Also wanted... GQ rear diff complete.
ha ha yeah but everything deviates.granborismo wrote:i thought this thread was supposed to be about "intercooling"??
In hind sight my IC is bigger than ideal, I had a bit of a mind fuddle when i looked at how it would fit.
its just going to be extra work, I will have to make a custom bonnet scoop, I pulled my little one off and looked at where i need to cut the bonnet too. hmm fairly large area. oh well its all trial and error.
I fitted my pyro guage on sunday and have since towed a 1.5T trailer and the hottest it got was 400 deg up hill under max load, so i will be able to increase my fuel a bit then re check temps to compare prior to the ic going in.
should be interesting - but i think it will take me a few weeks to make a mould for the bonnet scoop.
*there's a rock, drive over it :) there's a bigger rock, drive over it :twisted: there's an even bigger rock, oops broke it :oops: Upgrade broken bit :bad-words:
Goto *
Goto *
If you're only reading a max of 400C, then I wouldn't trust your probe. Check it's long enough to reach the centre of the flow, then take it out, stick it in a bbq flame and see how it reads.thehanko wrote: I fitted my pyro guage on sunday and have since towed a 1.5T trailer and the hottest it got was 400 deg up hill under max load,
I pull 430C at 100km/h flat road.
KiwiBacon wrote:If you're only reading a max of 400C, then I wouldn't trust your probe. Check it's long enough to reach the centre of the flow, then take it out, stick it in a bbq flame and see how it reads.thehanko wrote: I fitted my pyro guage on sunday and have since towed a 1.5T trailer and the hottest it got was 400 deg up hill under max load,
I pull 430C at 100km/h flat road.
430C on flat is a bit exteme! i run 10psi and way too much fuel
and i run about 280C at 100kmh on flat...
what temps do you run up a massive hill
I think you should check your probe position and accuracy too. There won't be much worse than melting your engine because your probe isn't giving you the correct temps.granborismo wrote:KiwiBacon wrote:If you're only reading a max of 400C, then I wouldn't trust your probe. Check it's long enough to reach the centre of the flow, then take it out, stick it in a bbq flame and see how it reads.thehanko wrote: I fitted my pyro guage on sunday and have since towed a 1.5T trailer and the hottest it got was 400 deg up hill under max load,
I pull 430C at 100km/h flat road.
430C on flat is a bit exteme! i run 10psi and way too much fuel
and i run about 280C at 100kmh on flat...
what temps do you run up a massive hill
430 on the flat (preturbo) is normal range, that's pulling 9psi on a 3.9L engine. I back off at 750C, on longer hills I keep it to about 600/650.
I think you will find that thehanko and gransborismo are talking post turbo temps. I run low 300's post turbo at 100kph.KiwiBacon wrote:I think you should check your probe position and accuracy too. There won't be much worse than melting your engine because your probe isn't giving you the correct temps.granborismo wrote:KiwiBacon wrote:If you're only reading a max of 400C, then I wouldn't trust your probe. Check it's long enough to reach the centre of the flow, then take it out, stick it in a bbq flame and see how it reads.thehanko wrote: I fitted my pyro guage on sunday and have since towed a 1.5T trailer and the hottest it got was 400 deg up hill under max load,
I pull 430C at 100km/h flat road.
430C on flat is a bit exteme! i run 10psi and way too much fuel
and i run about 280C at 100kmh on flat...
what temps do you run up a massive hill
430 on the flat (preturbo) is normal range, that's pulling 9psi on a 3.9L engine. I back off at 750C, on longer hills I keep it to about 600/650.
Ben
yeah post turbo, sorry forgot to mention. there was already a thread in the dump.KiwiBacon wrote:Why do you run a post-turbo probe? It's no use as a tuning aid as your preturbo temps can be 0-300C higher.hilux79 wrote: I think you will find that thehanko and gransborismo are talking post turbo temps. I run low 300's post turbo at 100kph.
*there's a rock, drive over it :) there's a bigger rock, drive over it :twisted: there's an even bigger rock, oops broke it :oops: Upgrade broken bit :bad-words:
Goto *
Goto *
Because I was to lazy to pull the turbo off .KiwiBacon wrote:Why do you run a post-turbo probe? It's no use as a tuning aid as your preturbo temps can be 0-300C higher.hilux79 wrote: I think you will find that thehanko and gransborismo are talking post turbo temps. I run low 300's post turbo at 100kph.
I'm not after every last pony so I'm happy to sacrifice a bit of accuracy by having to run a bigger safety margin.
Ben
KiwiBacon wrote:I think you should check your probe position and accuracy too. There won't be much worse than melting your engine because your probe isn't giving you the correct temps.granborismo wrote:KiwiBacon wrote:If you're only reading a max of 400C, then I wouldn't trust your probe. Check it's long enough to reach the centre of the flow, then take it out, stick it in a bbq flame and see how it reads.thehanko wrote: I fitted my pyro guage on sunday and have since towed a 1.5T trailer and the hottest it got was 400 deg up hill under max load,
I pull 430C at 100km/h flat road.
430C on flat is a bit exteme! i run 10psi and way too much fuel
and i run about 280C at 100kmh on flat...
what temps do you run up a massive hill
430 on the flat (preturbo) is normal range, that's pulling 9psi on a 3.9L engine. I back off at 750C, on longer hills I keep it to about 600/650.
yeah, that is post turbo temps... but anyway doesnt seem like your talking about the same engines...
coz a 2L or 3L would melt to peices running at those temps...
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