Outer Limits 4x4 Board

think ive fixed the overheating problem,i got rid of the air con' condensor,wont get passed about 82 degrees c.just have to work out what ive got to do to be able to refit it! maybe larger radiator,sounds more like an airflow problem though?????

interesting to see if that fixes it. i havent taken mine out but will try it with mine if it works on yours. have seen a guy mount his with flexible hoses on top of motor with twin bonnet scoops to flow through it like the top mount intercoolers. flex hoses were longer than needed so he could move it to access motor if need be.

temp problem isnt cured,definetly better though,still getting to about 90 degrees(that was towing a box trailer with about 1000 kg of fire wood in it for about 90 minutes),still thinking i might need the larger radiator

dont buy one yet. just changed my waterpump to a genuine and put 2 tubes of the gel in the fan hub (2004 td42) and it is heaps better but not perfect.did you count the fins?? dont think 90 is to bad though, not sure on the operating temp but thought they were about 85-90 degrees. where is you factory guage at??

get the rad shop to pressure test it to check head gasket isnt leaking. spoke to one guy who had the same prob and put a bottle of the repair liquid in and it fixed his car. will find the name of the reccomended stuff. been told by 3 rad shops to NOT use chemiweld as it is the antichrist. i put the big ally aussie desert cooler in mine and only a slight improvement. dont want you to waste big $$$$ for nothing.

purplebus wrote:dont buy one yet. just changed my waterpump to a genuine and put 2 tubes of the gel in the fan hub (2004 td42) and it is heaps better but not perfect.did you count the fins?? dont think 90 is to bad though, not sure on the operating temp but thought they were about 85-90 degrees. where is you factory guage at??

get the rad shop to pressure test it to check head gasket isnt leaking. spoke to one guy who had the same prob and put a bottle of the repair liquid in and it fixed his car. will find the name of the reccomended stuff. been told by 3 rad shops to NOT use chemiweld as it is the antichrist. i put the big ally aussie desert cooler in mine and only a slight improvement. dont want you to waste big $$$$ for nothing.

we checked head gaskets,they was fine,the fin count is about 58,the factory gauge goes to about 2/3,the gq that you had with the 350 in it,was it originally a petrol or diesel engine? just curious because from what ive read it looks like the diesel powered ones had a larger radiator than the petrol ones,3 rows against 2 rows?

pulled off thermos, fitted a larger shroud(off a chev truck) drove 4 x self drilling screws through the viscous hub to lock it up,only gets to about 80 degrees up hill now,but now it wont keep cool at slow speeds!! fitted a smaller waterpump pulley today hopeing that it will turn the fan a bit quicker?? see how it goes this week!

Have you guys checked out a product called water wetter from a company called Redline oils from the US. They sell it at Autobarn. Have been recommended it by race mechanic. Check out site for Redline oils in US there is a AUS site as well. They claim it will lower engine temps. You can read all the tech stuff on the site. Has anyone else used this product. I am changing my coolant next week so will find out if it works as claimed. For $35 a treatment worth a try. Waiting on gauge sender so I can measure improvement.
They have a tech support number in AUS if you want to talk to someone about how it works

maccapacca wrote:Have you guys checked out a product called water wetter from a company called Redline oils from the US. They sell it at Autobarn. Have been recommended it by race mechanic. Check out site for Redline oils in US there is a AUS site as well. They claim it will lower engine temps. You can read all the tech stuff on the site. Has anyone else used this product. I am changing my coolant next week so will find out if it works as claimed. For $35 a treatment worth a try. Waiting on gauge sender so I can measure improvement.
They have a tech support number in AUS if you want to talk to someone about how it works

that might be worth a look,might meen i could re fit driving lights and maybe fit a high mount winch?

let us know how this goes please. very interested.

fitted twin thermos on the front of the condensor,thats fixed the overheating now when the vehicles going slow,and got a bottle of the water wetter today,will put it in by the weekend and let you know how it goes.

Hey Tassie, which water wetter did you get, the red one or the blue as being in Tas going into winter without antifreeze could be risky. I am still waiting for my bottle as I ordered the diesel(blue) one. Try getting it to overheat before adding the WW then repeat the situation again after adding WW and record the temp difference. I will do the same when I get mine. I am dubious about additives and the spin that comes wth them, but from most accounts this one might be different, can only hope.

I got the pink one,it still says to run at least 15 percent anti freeze because the water wetter only has a rust inhibiter and not anti freeze.

just an update on the water wetter,didnt make an ounce of differance!!dont waste your money.

i had no faith in the big buck radiators but made a massive difference spending $1150 on a PWR for the previously overheating like a prick (std diesel gu then went to turbo.) PWR killed the problem good and proper... very happy. Flog it up the beach and wont move off half loaded with people beers and bitches and no probs.

If its getting hot at slow speed, that a water flow problem.

Start checking pumps, thermostats etc.

Although Im sure you already have.

Maybe try spacing the back of the bonnet up, found that bonnents that seal really well dont allow enough air out of engine bay relying on the tunnel alone. Leads to an increased pressure build up and air does flow through radiator as it should. Does your intake draw from out of the engine bay?? cooler intake air may help too.

outtacontrolpatrol wrote:Maybe try spacing the back of the bonnet up, found that bonnents that seal really well dont allow enough air out of engine bay relying on the tunnel alone. Leads to an increased pressure build up and air does flow through radiator as it should. Does your intake draw from out of the engine bay?? cooler intake air may help too.

a work guy in sa with a few turbo diesel patrols swore by this method.... used similar when he put the big diesel chevs or whatever they are also.... says it fixed everyone... we tried on another mates and did nothing but i think has more serious issues,...

just finding the happy medium between airflow and it looking ridiculas being the key.

currently running a 2 row,works ok sits on about 78'c most of the time,but last week had a day of mid 30"c's and the temp got to about 90'c up a small hill,managed to order a 3 row radiator from repco the other day,hopeing the extra row of tubes will make the temp more stable,not raise so quickly??

MY GU UTE IS GETTING HOT NOW I HAVE PUT SPOTLIGHTS ON IT, ANY IDEAS SINCE I WANNA KEEP THE LIGHTS?

JJ Demo wrote:MY GU UTE IS GETTING HOT NOW I HAVE PUT SPOTLIGHTS ON IT, ANY IDEAS SINCE I WANNA KEEP THE LIGHTS?

Put Lights on roof

another update,fitted a 3 row brass/copper one from repco,fitted large diameter steel fixed fan(about 18.5" od)drove up mt wellington today
(about 27 deg c outside temp),big climb,(3rd gear for about 15mins up hill) went up to about 95 on the gauge(with air con on that adds about another 5 degrees)fitted a higher preasure cap(16psi) dont know if its worth re fitting the el thermos to the larger 3 row to try??

seriously , you wont get the temp more stable by trying to make it run cooler , and if your fixed fan strruggles to keep temps down dont bother with thermo fans ( yet )

if you want to make the temp more stable then fit a hotter thermostat , it basicly increases the efficiency of your radiator by increasing the temp difference between ambiant air temp and coolant temp , i was having the same trouble with my guage going up and down all the time depending on load , trying to make it run cooler made it worse , then i fitted a 90 deg thermostat and the guage hardly moved after that , i even got rid of the clutch fan and fitted falcon thermos it worked so well

believe me or not , it does help and runs cooler when going up big hills ( doesnt get as hot as it used to )

so with the 90 deg thermostat does that mean that that it runs at 90 all the time??

tassie wombat wrote:so with the 90 deg thermostat does that mean that that it runs at 90 all the time??

yep , give or take a couple of degres

its aford not a nissan wrote:

tassie wombat wrote:so with the 90 deg thermostat does that mean that that it runs at 90 all the time??

yep , give or take a couple of degres

do you run aircon? how much hotter does it get on a hot day?

tassie wombat wrote:

its aford not a nissan wrote:

tassie wombat wrote:so with the 90 deg thermostat does that mean that that it runs at 90 all the time??

yep , give or take a couple of degres

do you run aircon? how much hotter does it get on a hot day?

it hardly moves on the guage at all , but with the a/c on i have the thermos going full blast so it still puts out cold air when i pull up at lights

tassie wombat wrote:another update,fitted a 3 row brass/copper one from repco,fitted large diameter steel fixed fan(about 18.5" od)drove up mt wellington today
(about 27 deg c outside temp),big climb,(3rd gear for about 15mins up hill) went up to about 95 on the gauge(with air con on that adds about another 5 degrees)fitted a higher preasure cap(16psi) dont know if its worth re fitting the el thermos to the larger 3 row to try??

shit dude thats pretty good if u can climb a hill for that long and only get to 95.. have you had it tuned by somone else yet though?? if its running lean it will create heat.. is the motor a new one or second hand? maybe its full of crap internally...

also have you cleaned the fins on the air con condensor????

i recon it would have went over 100 with the aircon going,has been tuned by mechanic,condensor fins are clean,engine has had the welsh plugs removed and block was flushed,its as clean as a whistle! the engine has done probably 350,000 kms,its getting a bit tired.next step might be a new crate motor with alloy intake and heads,the aluminium bits might help to get rid of heat a bit quicker??