Outer Limits 4x4 Board

SIM79 wrote:

mud_runner_GQ wrote:2"springs 2" body lift 33's

4" springs gaurd chop 35s

Both have 4 inch lift but the bottom one looks heaps higher.

first pic sagged 2" ome springs. Where fitted whene i got the truck, second pic brand new 4" flexy coils.

bogged wrote:

mud_runner_GQ wrote:4" springs gaurd chop 35s

what diffs is that runnin, 5 stud?

ts running gq diff with hub cap on the wheels, for shits and giggles

mud_runner_GQ wrote:

SIM79 wrote:

mud_runner_GQ wrote:2"springs 2" body lift 33's

4" springs gaurd chop 35s

Both have 4 inch lift but the bottom one looks heaps higher.

first pic sagged 2" ome springs. Where fitted whene i got the truck, second pic brand new 4" flexy coils.

The red shoty looks alot neater, any probs with your drive line? Got some more info on the 4" kit that you have used?

TomSeth wrote:thanks sim, got it sorted now

my mav with 4.5 inch inch lift + 2 inch body lift, pic with siver rims is 35's rest are 33's

hey mate did you have any dramas with ur coil lift? as in driveline vibrations etc?

waandy wrote:
hey mate did you have any dramas with ur coil lift? as in driveline vibrations etc?

Hey, Ive been asked this questions a few times, so I'll post it here so everyone can read it, I did have vibration trouble when i fitted the lift, i mucked around with the adjustable upper control arms to get the diff pinion angle right. I also have a double cardinal joint in my tail shaft. I got it pretty good but you could still feel a slight vibration at around 80km/h so then i slipped the transfer case x-member lowering plates in to drop it around 10-20mm (I was willing to sarifice a few millimetres to gain inches of lift else where) and now there no vibration at all, unless you leave the hubs locked in on the highway and the front tail shaft gets a slight vibration at around 80km/h which isn't a big deal coz i don't drive around with the hubs locked in. I find the lift pretty good on the road and around town and my mates (in my 4wd drive club) are suprised by how little body roll it has, Normally i run BFG MT's in 33's on the road which are fine, i run tubes in them so I can lower the pressure as low as 10 psi without rolling them of the bead which have been pretty good rock crawling, the other tyres i run are 35 centrepedes, They don't foul in the front, in the back on full articulation they touch the bolt that comes through the top the inside of the wheel arch, i think the bolt anchors the seat rear belt. I think shorting that bolt up or cutting the pretruding thread off could be a fix, It would be up to you weather you wanted to do this. I'm pretty happy with it otherwise, can't really think of anything I'd change.
cheers Tom

With a double carden joint you should have no vibrations with the front hubs unlocked and there is no need to lower the crossmember. I ran a seven inch lift in my shorty for a couple of years with no vibrations with the gearbox crossmember raised higher than standard. As you mentioned, the front driveshaft with the hubs locked in is another story above 80 but you just need to make sure you unlock them before driving on the road.

If you set a double carden up properly you will get no vibrations from your driveline at all even with stupidly lifted shorties like mine was.

Nelso wrote:With a double carden joint you should have no vibrations with the front hubs unlocked and there is no need to lower the crossmember. I ran a seven inch lift in my shorty for a couple of years with no vibrations with the gearbox crossmember raised higher than standard. As you mentioned, the front driveshaft with the hubs locked in is another story above 80 but you just need to make sure you unlock them before driving on the road.

If you set a double carden up properly you will get no vibrations from your driveline at all even with stupidly lifted shorties like mine was.

There was only so far i could tilt the diff before the shocks came into contact with the springs, If i got rid of the vibrations by adjusting the diff pinion angle alone the shocks touched springs, so I had to fit the cross member plates. Then no vibes and no shock to spring contact.
Tom

Nelso wrote: the front driveshaft with the hubs locked in is another story above 80 but you just need to make sure you unlock them before driving on the road.

Thanks for confirming that for me

Hi Guys

We have been selling some 3.5" lift flexy coils for shorties with longer shocks which give heaps of flex and a nice ride. You need upper adjustable trailing arms and adjustable panhard rods.

Shane

4WD Stuff wrote:Hi Guys

We have been selling some 3.5" lift flexy coils for shorties with longer shocks which give heaps of flex and a nice ride. You need upper adjustable trailing arms and adjustable panhard rods.

Shane

When will the 4 inch front flexy coils be available?

TomSeth wrote:

Nelso wrote:With a double carden joint you should have no vibrations with the front hubs unlocked and there is no need to lower the crossmember. I ran a seven inch lift in my shorty for a couple of years with no vibrations with the gearbox crossmember raised higher than standard. As you mentioned, the front driveshaft with the hubs locked in is another story above 80 but you just need to make sure you unlock them before driving on the road.

If you set a double carden up properly you will get no vibrations from your driveline at all even with stupidly lifted shorties like mine was.

There was only so far i could tilt the diff before the shocks came into contact with the springs, If i got rid of the vibrations by adjusting the diff pinion angle alone the shocks touched springs, so I had to fit the cross member plates. Then no vibes and no shock to spring contact.
Tom

Makes sense to save moving mounts. To rotate the diff enough for the seven inch lift I had to remove the factory shock mounts and weld on new ones as well as rotate the spring mounts so I did them all at the same time.

SIM79 wrote:

4WD Stuff wrote:Hi Guys

We have been selling some 3.5" lift flexy coils for shorties with longer shocks which give heaps of flex and a nice ride. You need upper adjustable trailing arms and adjustable panhard rods.

Shane

When will the 4 inch front flexy coils be available?

Front and rear flexy coils are available now but I can't confirm exactly what height they will sit at until some SWB dude puts them in their vehicle.

We have the flex ramp set up now if you are local.

Shane

TomSeth wrote:

Nelso wrote:With a double carden joint you should have no vibrations with the front hubs unlocked and there is no need to lower the crossmember. I ran a seven inch lift in my shorty for a couple of years with no vibrations with the gearbox crossmember raised higher than standard. As you mentioned, the front driveshaft with the hubs locked in is another story above 80 but you just need to make sure you unlock them before driving on the road.

If you set a double carden up properly you will get no vibrations from your driveline at all even with stupidly lifted shorties like mine was.

There was only so far i could tilt the diff before the shocks came into contact with the springs, If i got rid of the vibrations by adjusting the diff pinion angle alone the shocks touched springs, so I had to fit the cross member plates. Then no vibes and no shock to spring contact.
Tom

tomseth,
did you use upper or lower adjustable arms?
i am running 4 6mm crossmember packers each side and am getting vibrations and my shaft growling above 60 kms when you put the clutch in
where are these arms available and how much?
cheers waandy

I have just realized that (I THINK) Tom bought the 4.5" SWB flexy coils, superflex arms, Boss adjustable and panhard rods off Suspension Stuff.

Upper adjustable trailing arms are $385 for the pair. I would recommend against the double cardin shaft if you can help it because of the other mods you have to do to rotate the rear diff pinion back. You need to modify the spring base plate and the shock mounts or your shocks will hit your axles.

4.5 inches is pretty tall for the poor short tailshaft so not all can get away with it by just adjusting the upper adjustable trailing arms and gearbox spacers.

Shane

i am thinking of shortening and modifieng the arms myself. i already need to modify the right top arm to clear the petrol tank as i am duel fuel so i mite just cut them down to the right length.

waandy wrote:i am thinking of shortening and modifieng the arms myself. i already need to modify the right top arm to clear the petrol tank as i am duel fuel so i mite just cut them down to the right length.

We have bent arms in stock for this at standard length. I can get some in that are shorter to get the correction close but in your situation I think adjustable lower trailing arms would be the best solution because of the fine tuning that is necessary.

As you can hopefully imagine, they can't make the bent arm adjustable.

Someone please stop the people who make these secondary tanks from making them too close to the upper arms. Pleeeeeaaaase.

Shane

4WD Stuff wrote:

waandy wrote:i am thinking of shortening and modifieng the arms myself. i already need to modify the right top arm to clear the petrol tank as i am duel fuel so i mite just cut them down to the right length.

We have bent arms in stock for this at standard length. I can get some in that are shorter to get the correction close but in your situation I think adjustable lower trailing arms would be the best solution because of the fine tuning that is necessary.

As you can hopefully imagine, they can't make the bent arm adjustable.

Someone please stop the people who make these secondary tanks from making them too close to the upper arms. Pleeeeeaaaase.

Shane

hey shane
how much are your bent arms in stock length? another bloke is helping me make longer lower arms to correct my pinion angle and it would be nice to be able to get some decent fuel range this weekend
cheers mate

$180 for the bent one or $340 for a bent one and straight one in case you have stuffed bushes.

Just make sure your lowers are adjustable to tune out the vibes. Once you have it right and you go hard I could get made lower trailing arms at the exactl length you have. If your springs sag over time though you could upset your vibes again.

Shane

In my custom feroza I used a twin double cardanel jointed drive shaft, Driveline services in bris made it for me, it had a double cardinal on each end of the rear shaft. There were no vibrations, no noises, & no issues.
I am now customising a SWB GQ for shows & comps ect, & I will use the same set up in that..
cheers piglet

So you had a double cardin joint at either end of the shafts, 4 in total. I presume you had to do no mods to spring perches and shock mounts???

In a SWB Patrol I would have thought that they would have to operate beyond their operating range if you don't mod the rear. I had a 3" lift in my shorty and 1 double cardin joint right at the rear. I went to take it for a drive and it was just about bound up. Much worse vibes you could say. I then had to tilt the diff upwards which mean't I had to modify the spring perch and shock mounts.

I'm not trying to say I am an expert on these, I definitely am not, but I am wondering how you get around this problem.

What lift are you going for in the Shorty?

Shane

hi shane, in the feroza, due to the amt of mods, the rear shaft was a lot shorter than the front shaft, so the front shaft we got away without a D-C joint, but in a GQ swb Iwill be looking at puting 1 in at the diff end of the shaft.
In the rear I used 2 double cardinal joints, that is 1 D-C joint at each end of the shaft, with no mods to spring towers/saddles,shock mounts, or upper & lower arms.. I raced the truck with this setup from the 2005 outback challenge in all comps until early 2008 where we changed to GU running gear & then mooved everthing except the shock mounts, I wouldnt have bothered but I had to bring the spring saddles in as daihatsu chassis are heaps skinnier than GU's, & when you move 1 thing, they all had 2

Let us know how you go with the rear of the shorty. What lift are you going for?

Shane

New custom 3" progresively rated coil, legnth matched shocks, the same as the setup in my feroza,gives you the same up travle as a standard 3" coil but the down travle of a 5" coil.. basicly looks like a norm coil but the top 4 - 5 coils are nearly together so it works on the lower part of the coil for normal use & the top part opens up in extreme use where big down travle is required
the company that makes them up for us has been testing them for years in comp & road aplications with great sucess on my rig & are now ready to rack them as a shelf item to buy as a kit. this is the set up we are using in the new QLD production class as a 3" lift is all you can do leaglly up here aparently ??

PRETTY FUNNY when you have to unmodify your CLUB/TOURER to turn it into a COMP CAR

thanks guys went with the flexi kit from shane at suspension and stuff going to whack it in tomk thanks for your help

pigletracing wrote:New custom 3" progresively rated coil, legnth matched shocks, the same as the setup in my feroza,gives you the same up travle as a standard 3" coil but the down travle of a 5" coil.. basicly looks like a norm coil but the top 4 - 5 coils are nearly together so it works on the lower part of the coil for normal use & the top part opens up in extreme use where big down travle is required
the company that makes them up for us has been testing them for years in comp & road aplications with great sucess on my rig & are now ready to rack them as a shelf item to buy as a kit. this is the set up we are using in the new QLD production class as a 3" lift is all you can do leaglly up here aparently ??

PRETTY FUNNY when you have to unmodify your CLUB/TOURER to turn it into a COMP CAR

The coils you are helping develop sound exactly the same as the coils we do for the SWB in a 3.5 or a 4.5" lift now, that Tom above and many others are running in their SWB Patrols.

We also have them for the LWB in 3", 4", 5", 6" and 7" and the Cruiser 3 & 5", Rangie 2 and 3", Disco 1 and 2 2 & 3" and some Jeeps.

Shane