Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Do you have a leak in a pipe somewhere ??
Mine sits on bout 7 psi when cruising at 100kph and is lifted so it's like pushing a brick through the air.

no don't have a leak in the intake at all, i thought that this seemed a bit high when not even powering up hills.

Something that i should have probably mentioned that i am running 4.8 diffs, not to sure how much this affects this at all

I'm running 4.88's (stock was 4.5) as well as 33's so the speedo is back very close to where it should be.
If your running smaller than 33's the engine will find it easier to turn them.

I dont think a ct26 will work well on a 2.8 diesel.

landcruiser 4.2l is 1.5times the capacity of the 2.8, I think it would spool very late in the rev range.

Ct20 and ct26 share the same core and small parts like bearings etc

they have different housings and wheels depending on application.

ct26 have different housings just for the different model landcruisers.

I dont know if ct20 and ct26 can be hybridised, but check the link for parts specs

Toyota turbo applications


probably safer to disregard beinthemuds dribble

80's_delirious wrote:I dont think a ct26 will work well on a 2.8 diesel.

landcruiser 4.2l is 1.5times the capacity of the 2.8, I think it would spool very late in the rev range.

Ct20 and ct26 share the same core and small parts like bearings etc

they have different housings and wheels depending on application.

ct26 have different housings just for the different model landcruisers.

I dont know if ct20 and ct26 can be hybridised, but check the link for parts specs

Toyota turbo applications


probably safer to disregard beinthemuds dribble

yeah its interetsing how many variations of the same turbo are around, I have 2 ct20's and they are completely different vanes on the compressor and are not interchangablle between these two items. so i dont think you will find a clear cut answer to hybridising them.

goodluck

If determined that the turbo is the problem the best bet would beto go and get a nice turbo more suited ie ball bearing and that can be off the shelf with the correct A/R ratio

this will reduce lag and put it in the right operating range for your engine

it really depends on how much you want to spend and how much time you have to stuff around with putting bits of diferent turbos together only to find out they did not work that well
if you have spent 1500 bucks to go buy a brand new one that will work and all done in a weekend with an adapter plate

i used to stuff around but it is all dependent on finance to what you want to do

How free should a turbo spin? I grabbed mine to check for play, spun it with my fingers and it turns freely but there is resistance there, like when i give it a spin with my fingers it stop's as soon as i let go. Is this normal, or should it free spin a little? Could this be acting slightly as a restriction?

as long as your not feeling resistance it should be fine, the vanes are getting resistance against the air so its unlikely to spin after you stop pushing it, but it should not be difficult to turn at all.

if your making 10 psi i dont think resistance to the shaft turning is an issue.

So out of all this do we know which turbo suits 2.8 best. i have one stock as a rock off a 2LT-E and goes ok. but from what i can gather they aren't efficient over say 13psi???

So if i front mount intercool my lux, get a ct26, i should be able to pump out around 14-15psi happily ya?

Or will the boost come on real late... the ct20 without any intercooler comes on around 1800rpm, i would love it if a ct26 would come on sooner.

But that raises another question, is the ct26 even that great? is there any better turbo's i could use?

Outer Limits Hilux wrote:So out of all this do we know which turbo suits 2.8 best. i have one stock as a rock off a 2LT-E and goes ok. but from what i can gather they aren't efficient over say 13psi???

So if i front mount intercool my lux, get a ct26, i should be able to pump out around 14-15psi happily ya?

Or will the boost come on real late... the ct20 without any intercooler comes on around 1800rpm, i would love it if a ct26 would come on sooner.

But that raises another question, is the ct26 even that great? is there any better turbo's i could use?

I would think a modern ball bearing after market turbo will out perform an old toyota 20 or 26 if it is designed to suit that specific application. as to which specific turbo... i dont know

The ct26 is a good turbo, biggest problem being getting parts to suit a non standard setup like what you are attempting. The ct26 was used in everything from the 3sgte 2 litre mr2, gt4 celica to the hdfte in the 100 series to the supra 3 litre 7mgte for instance...all with different exhaust manifolds and impellors. I have currently got a 7mgte housing on my hdft, which is the next size up from std....it still boosts down low but looses boost on hills where it didnt before....if your diesel looses boost, you make smoke and go nowhere fast....so u have to back gears...positive side is it makes more boost without becoming a restriction up high....ive ran it at 17 psi without going over 600 degrees in the exhaust pre turbo, resulting in a very quick diesel up hills. Higher boost is quite possible, still playing with tune at the moment.
the 2 litre turbos had ceramic turbines that dont like 14 psi or greater, they are a great turbo and i think one of them would work best on your lux's....an even better turbo would be the one that comes std on the 3 litre diesel and the 2.5 litre 1jz...which is the next generation in turbo from toyota....ct20b i believe its called.

So do you think a ct26 would come on earlier, with a standard exhaust manifold.

I have heard they come on sooner.. around 1200rpm, and noticeably drop in boost after 3300rpm, which sounds too good to be true....

thehanko wrote:as long as your not feeling resistance it should be fine, the vanes are getting resistance against the air so its unlikely to spin after you stop pushing it, but it should not be difficult to turn at all.

if your making 10 psi i dont think resistance to the shaft turning is an issue.

WTF?, what is the go with misinformed answers on this site lately, not taking a shot at you buddy, but the resistance from the air so unlikely to spin after you stop spinning it comment is odd, as is the damaged front/rear wheels, for it to be that damaged it would be so out of balance the turbo would grenade. bush bearing turbos are not as efficient, but will still spin after you stop spinning the turbine, there will always be resistance especially without oil flowing over the bearings, a ball bearing turbo will spin for a lot longer, ball bearing turbos can spin for 10-20 secs after you turn the motor off (mine did), and will definately spin after you spin it with your finger.

Once again no pun intented.


A t28/gt28/52 etc bb turbo would be a good match, with a slightly bigger rear housing or youll run it out of puff, remembering diesels have alot more compression than a petrol = more air flow = more air to get out, its a compromise between getting the air out as quick as possible and not choking the motor at higher rpms, remembering ball bearing turbos are more efficient, so you can select a slightly larger turbo than you would with bush bearings, and it will spool as quick if not quicker than the bush turbo. Have a read of some turbo air flow graphs and read how to understand them and youll begin to understand what turbo will work with the motor, and if u f**k it up someone will happily correct you.

a ct26 should not spool up quiet as quick as the stock unit, as it is larger, but the lighter front wheel will assist in spool up as i mentioned on the last page, but the boost not running out higher in the rpms would outweigh the slightly slower spool, as i said and has been said a few comments above, the ct26s come in many variants, research and experience is your friend in this case.

My 2.8 had a smallish overheat issue under high boost (10lb) but after I had the injector pump done by a pro it was problem no more. He stripped it cleaned it replaced seals and reset all settings to factory plus 8% so the the advance and everything was done to accommodate the turbo.
If I were to guess I would say that one of the current settings is allowing it to overfuel ever so slightly under heavy boost.
But I have been wrong plenty of times maybe this is one of them. Cheers food for thought

Yeah i had my injector fully rebuilt and wound the fuel up 10%, i advanced the injector pump about 1.5mm (clockwise) and got the injectors rebuilt and wound up. The ct20 off my 2LT-E runs 11psi at its absolute lowest boost setting - with a boost - T ( i think the turbo was high flowed )

I used the 2LT-E oil cooler and housing, and the bigger 2LT-E oil filter to suit. have never had any drama's with over heating, even with a stock 2LT-E radiator (transmission cooler in bottom of it- just welded shut)