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Posted: Fri Jun 26, 2009 4:57 pm
by nicksamaniac
tried it but got no bubbles, had it running for 20 mins at fully warmed up temp, any more ideas?? :cry:

Posted: Fri Jun 26, 2009 8:42 pm
by GUtripper
I once had a car that would run fine around town all day long. But load it with a trailer, or head up a long hill (ie either way load her up) and it would get hot and stay that way. It gave me the shites for about 8 months

After lots of stuffing around including cooling system, reco head and head gaskets etc, it turned out to be a tiny pin hole in a bore, caused by corrosion from the water jackets.

Posted: Fri Jun 26, 2009 9:31 pm
by Sterlo
Nick silly question... you didnt put another head on it??? Because the heads changed some time in 83..

And std boost id 8psi on the sd33t, So maybe its over fueling. ALSO another silly question. has it had a new rad??? As i have found out rad places only list one for the SD33, SD33T ands the P40. Count the no. of tubes. they can vary from 30 to nearly 70. A factory nissan LWB SD33T with A/C and tow pack had a shit load more tubes that a SWB turbo with no a/c and tow pack..

Just a thought i may be way off!!!
Sterlo

Posted: Fri Jun 26, 2009 10:54 pm
by kane077
I think it would be worth getting the radiator tanks taken off and the core assessed. If there is rubbish in the block it will all end up in the radiator. You can try back flushing but i have found this wont dislodge blocked radiator tubes properly. Cores need to be "rodded" to push the gunk out.

Posted: Sat Jun 27, 2009 3:07 pm
by nicksamaniac
it is the same head, just cleaned up and put back on, when i got the rad they asked me for the model as there where a few numbers to suit different models, but i will count the core and let you know how many its got.
not sure on the boost but, the waste gate rod is non adjustable so maybe the diaphram is buggered in it?

Posted: Mon Jun 29, 2009 9:10 pm
by elmo72j
Did you put a new cap on the radiator when it was replaced? If this is faulty it may not be allowing it to suck back when cooling down and the top rad hose could be collapsing restricting the water flow. This happens to my SD33 sometimes.
Johno.

Posted: Tue Jun 30, 2009 10:24 am
by nicksamaniac
yeah its a new one, open's up at 88kpa. but i might try another one just to try your idea?

Posted: Tue Jun 30, 2009 5:10 pm
by Rockmonsta
Wouldn't be a couple of injectors playin up? you said it keeps doing exhaust gaskets on number 3 and 5 , I think. From what I understand underfueling makes things run lean which gets things hot. Correct me if I'm wrong there

Posted: Tue Jun 30, 2009 5:30 pm
by nicksamaniac
yeah i'm starting to suspect the pump elements are going out of fase and its over-fueling on 4 &5, in a diesel its to much fuel wich makes it hot,
in a petrol its lean that is no good, if a diesel goes lean it just doesn't make power.

Posted: Sat Jul 04, 2009 9:47 pm
by nicksamaniac
I'm hopeing i may of found the problem, i wound up the boost today to 9psi,
so far it run's cooler than normal (didn't go over 185f, is normaly at 190f)
and i was giving it a far cainin for about 20 min, will up date on how it goes driving to and from work every day.

Posted: Sun Jul 05, 2009 9:54 pm
by macneil
kane077 wrote:Cut a 2L coke bottle in half and tape it too the radiator where the cap goes. Fill it water and run the engine till its hot and see if its blowing any bubbles. Sounds like it has a head gasket issue. The bubbles may appear as just a very small stream coming through the water but this is all it takes sometimes. In other instances the bubbles may show up in groups as they build up in the engine and then get pushed out through the radiator.
this is also one of the best ways to bleed you cooling system.. keep it filled half way once the thermostat opens it can let air out and take water in.. but clamp your overflow line or it will just fill full..