Outer Limits 4x4 Board

I do agree it would def "feel" stronger with some outer supports. butso far so good.... touch wood

You will only get a custom job, with a custom price, and trying to do such a conversion on too tight a budget will just end up a compromised conversion.

You need to either change your goals, or adjust your budget, to get a good job.

Personally, I would be modding the firewall, making a bell housing, and using a 4terrain 12" TD clutch and redrilling the LS1 flywheel to suit the cruiser pressure plate, if you want to stick with a manual.

But I went forced induction on the 4.5, for more power than converting, ore easily, and cheaper also.

A nice new wheel barrow tub can make for a great firewall step, without having to start from scratch too

it's been a while since i visited this thread so thought I'd give an update and raise a few questions:

recently been considering gearbox and transfer case solutions. i was leaning towards installing the t56 6 speed and divorcing the transfer case but found it hard to find a transfer case (other than the LC) that had the front and rear - offset - outputs. i also wanted a transfer with PTO (for later mods) which made things harder still.

so, considering factory LC equipment I've decided on an H150F with the HF1A transfer (which has PTO). i picked the box and transfer up late last week and have since thought (because this box come off a 3f) that dellows do a bell-housing for this box? - if they don't it won't be a big deal because i will slit the H150F bell housing on the box side and mate it to the equivalent - other half - from a gm bell-housing. this way i can cant the engine and adapt the box without the need for spacers!

this is getting exciting!!

now, because this vehicle is a daily driver (and i have another crazy project in the pipeline) i got myself an 80 rolling chassis about 3 weeks ago - this is going to help me out BIG TIME! because i can build the conversion up on it and basically bolt it in when the time comes. things like the exhaust, clearing chassis rails, gearbox cross-member can all be done out of the car.

to finish up, the gearbox is going to receive an overhaul with bearings, seals and sychro's while the transfer too will receive a freshen up with some crawler gears. PTO has to come later. she's going from full time to part time (i already have the hubs) and really need to replace the cv's because they have started clicking again! YES DEAR, I REALLY NEED LONGFIELD AXLES!, NO THEY DON'T MAKE A CHEAPER CV!

gear sticks are still going to be hassle but i should be able to cope.

give me your thoughts

cheers - Dave.

djroberts wrote: some stuff about a conversion

give me your thoughts

cheers - Dave.

Have you looked for a landcruiser divorced tcase adaptor? i remember someone posting a link to an american site that had made a plate that replicated the back of the gearbox and had an input flange so you could use a landcruiser tcase as a split transfer.

Did you use the marks crawler gears? coz i priced them up and they're laughably way to expensive. I wish there was an easy alternative.

I'm not sure about the idea of splitting a bellhousing. sounds like a LOT of work that would be incredibly hard to make sure the shafts line up and also the welding would have to be top quality.

the hz 80 series runs the h150 the td and petrol 80s run the h151 same strangth with different first gear ratio
the 1hz 105, 78 series troopy and 79 series ute run the weaker gear box being the r151 not r150

There is a 105 series going around perth with a ls2 in it seen it a the perfomance shop i use for my r8 clubi

I had thought this could be a great conversion in a TD 80series, they come up on ebay all the time from as little as $600
From the info I could find, the t56 6 speed was never installed in a vehicle as heavy as the 80series, here or OS as far as I could determine.
Commodore is around 1700kg, 80series is more like 2700kg, big difference.
I have doubts as to wether it has been built to handle the torque loading of big V8 combined with a heavy truck, particulalry if you are going to use it offroad.

I think the H150 is a better option for sure.

This feels like the longest engine transplant in history!

Got some updates:

-> Sorted the transmission. I got a new NV4500 from the US with the package from AA. I will be using the vacuum engage split transfer case out of an '88 HJ61, i won't be putting reduction gears in because the NV4500 has 6.3 first gear ratio.


-> Fuel pump bosch 404 - Ive heard mixed reviews on this pump.

-> EF thermo fans with painless variable speed controller.

-> Donaldson air cleaner.

Only things I need now are the headers, pipe and some bends. Can anyone point me in the right direction for block huggers with the o2 sensor hole in the for arround $500 - they don't have to heat shielded.

Cheers, D.

Kitika wrote:I just got a price from marks for the sump...
$795!!!!

What is yours out of exactly cranky? And how much dosh did ya pay?

I also got the instruction manual from marks for the conversion if you wanted to have a read djroberts. I don't think the gearbox movement is much and they massage the firewall to make the extra space.

I got mine from eagle imports. They import american engines and bits and peaces. The camaro has the rear drop sump. Im pretty sure I got mine for $300 with the oil pick ups and dip stick.

TheBigBoy wrote:

Kitika wrote:I just got a price from marks for the sump...
$795!!!!

What is yours out of exactly cranky? And how much dosh did ya pay?

I also got the instruction manual from marks for the conversion if you wanted to have a read djroberts. I don't think the gearbox movement is much and they massage the firewall to make the extra space.

I got mine from eagle imports. They import american engines and bits and peaces. The camaro has the rear drop sump. Im pretty sure I got mine for $300 with the oil pick ups and dip stick.

yeah, i got the camaro sump too. Really wanted the one they put in the hummer though.

Just got me a set of these bad boys shipped should be here next week!

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/LS1-Tight ... ,4614.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

My plan will be to run the left bank engine pipe down and around the front of the engine and join the right bank in a y-pipe. Doing this to keep the heat out of the fuel/brake line area.

Brroooom

D.

Thats cheap as. My block hugger extractors and pipe work cost $1600 and I thought that was good.

OK, got a little done tonight.

-> Attached the rear extension housing to the gearbox

-> Got hardware from the dealer to bolt the starter onto the block - bolted it up

-> Did some electrical work on the vacuum valves and engine driven compressor

-> Researched nutsert tools - gonna get the ratchet type from wurth

-> Ordered tk5 transfer rebuild kit from TT.

-> Refurbishment parts for the vacuum actuator have been difficult to get and some parts need to come out of japan

-> Had an issue! Speedo gear thing in the transfer case is different! upon investigation i have found that the thread (on sensor side not in the transfer) is the same and the drive should fit. I don't know if the ratio is the same or not - guess i'll find out when i drive it!

-> Because i have have the gmpp wiring loom I need to sort the purge valve too? Thought i might just wire it in the always open position? anyone see a problem with that?

-> Need to source silicone hoses and exhaust parts? Anyone know somewhere good?

Cheers, D.

Check these bad boys out, they're ceramic coated:





Ordered these last week and picked them up tonight!! They fit and look great.

Tomorrow i start pulling the car apart . ..

djroberts wrote:Check these bad boys out, they're ceramic coated:

http://i672.photobucket.com/albums/vv84 ... 020673.jpg" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;[/img]

http://i672.photobucket.com/albums/vv84 ... 020676.jpg" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;[/img]

Ordered these last week and picked them up tonight!! They fit and look great.

Tomorrow i start pulling the car apart . ..

keep us posted, thats engine porn right there.

craz3d wrote:

djroberts wrote:Check these bad boys out, they're ceramic coated:

http://i672.photobucket.com/albums/vv84 ... 020673.jpg" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;[/img]

http://i672.photobucket.com/albums/vv84 ... 020676.jpg" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;[/img]

Ordered these last week and picked them up tonight!! They fit and look great.

Tomorrow i start pulling the car apart . ..

keep us posted, thats engine porn right there.

yep, will do

Sensational stuff, my 80 series has just shit a head..........AGAIN, so I am sitting here contemplating options, LS1 does make my whiskers twitch!

Great thread, be keen to see how it pans out

OK, so things have moved a little slowly this week but here are a few updates!

-> Moved the engine off the stand and on to the trolley so i could get to the back of it. Mounted the flywheel and clutch assembly then put the bell housing on ... turns out I'm going to need to make new dust covers because the one from AA won't work.










-> Pulled the drawers out from the back of the car hoping there would be an access hole to the fuel pump through the floor ... no. So the draws went back in and it allowed me the opportunity to vacuum the oats and lucerne chaff out from under where the drawers sit ...

-> Finally got my transfer case rebuild kit! All i gots to do is clean up the parts and bang her together!

-> Been thinking recently about the tachometer setup when i get the engine in ... I've heard that the landcruiser has an adjustable potentiometer already in there? Is this true?

-> Air con! gotta find me one of these plugs (the male part) can anyone help me there??


-> Digital protractors? ? ? ? ? Whats the best one to get? Ebay jobs run to about $50 - are they worth the money?
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Digital-Protract ... 3a63956e2e" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

There is a access hole in the floor for the fuel sender, Its under the back seat. Well my 80 does anyway.

Tacho you can change the computer output to suit 6 cylinder, Just need HP tuner. Then some 80 tacho's just work, some need a signal booster to convert the 5 volt signal to 12V

I have a few of those a/c plugs, However you can just get them off any VT onwards commodore, V6 or V8

You will also need custom made fittings for that a/c compressor so they clear the steering box

With the exhaust I would get the pipes ceramic coated aswell, They will put an extreme amount of heat through the floor and tunnel. I have run mine outside the rails where the factory pipe runs. Gets a lot more air around them to keep them cool. May be hard with those block huggers though.

killalux wrote:There is a access hole in the floor for the fuel sender, Its under the back seat. Well my 80 does anyway.

Yeah i had a look there and didn't see one! **Shrugging**

killalux wrote:Tacho you can change the computer output to suit 6 cylinder, Just need HP tuner. Then some 80 tacho's just work, some need a signal booster to convert the 5 volt signal to 12V

Thanks for the heads up. I know a few places in Melbourne that can do the HPTuners thing. I was thinking of getting a setup for myself. I hear HP has a bit more factory support than it's competitor. I'll work that part out when i get there.

killalux wrote:I have a few of those a/c plugs, However you can just get them off any VT onwards commodore, V6 or V8

I'll order some off you if you don't mind...pm sent.

killalux wrote:You will also need custom made fittings for that a/c compressor so they clear the steering box

yeah, with a little help from MUD000, he pointed me in the right direction for this ... still needs custom plumbing.
http://www.rmsautoparts.com/proddetail. ... d=15-33262" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

killalux wrote:With the exhaust I would get the pipes ceramic coated aswell, They will put an extreme amount of heat through the floor and tunnel. I have run mine outside the rails where the factory pipe runs. Gets a lot more air around them to keep them cool. May be hard with those block huggers though.

Yeah, intention here was to run them on the inside for protection and allow the future fittment of sliders. I'll need to do something for heat protection but that's the least of my worries at the moment ...

Anyhow, it's the missus' birthday this weekend and won't be able to get much done on the conversion. More updates next week.

D.

Why don't you use the 2 plastic dust shields from a commodore instead of making new ones?

Green80 wrote:Why don't you use the 2 plastic dust shields from a commodore instead of making new ones?

I would gladly if they fit a AA bell-housing? Do you have a Part Number?

Cheers, D.

Got one of these

It's a ratchet rivnut insertion tool ... very cool ... you may now drool:







not cheap but works brilliantly! Does the rivnuts in M4 - M12 and rivstuds M5, M6, and M8.

Updates:

-> Started making up the dust guards tonight but didn't get finished. I was going to use stainless steel sheet which i have some of but i can't stand working with it ... I'll try and get some mild steel sheet tomorrow.

-> Cleaned up the work area and generally organised myself to move to the next stage ... which is assembling the engine/tranny/transfer unit. I hope to have this done by the end of the week and the car pulled to bits over the long weekend.

about time you did some work on this!

for silicon hoses you cant beat eBay. for the exhaust bits, i have a guy, so let me know what you need and i can help ya out

paul

djroberts wrote:Got one of these

It's a ratchet rivnut insertion tool ... very cool ... you may now drool:

not cheap but works brilliantly! Does the rivnuts in M4 - M12 and rivstuds M5, M6, and M8.

Updates:

-> Started making up the dust guards tonight but didn't get finished. I was going to use stainless steel sheet which i have some of but i can't stand working with it ... I'll try and get some mild steel sheet tomorrow.

-> Cleaned up the work area and generally organised myself to move to the next stage ... which is assembling the engine/tranny/transfer unit. I hope to have this done by the end of the week and the car pulled to bits over the long weekend.

Got a model number on this? Im chasing one that decent quality and so far found only cheap and nasty ones. Where abouts did ya get it?

BTW, VE headers are also block huggers but have the outlet further back rather than straight down avoiding the issue of them clashing with the engine mounts etc and are angled a bit better so you dont need a 90 degree bend right next to the chassis mount. They are also a LOT cheaper than the imported block hugger headers

VooDoo wrote:

djroberts wrote:Got one of these

It's a ratchet rivnut insertion tool ... very cool ... you may now drool:

not cheap but works brilliantly! Does the rivnuts in M4 - M12 and rivstuds M5, M6, and M8.

Updates:

-> Started making up the dust guards tonight but didn't get finished. I was going to use stainless steel sheet which i have some of but i can't stand working with it ... I'll try and get some mild steel sheet tomorrow.

-> Cleaned up the work area and generally organised myself to move to the next stage ... which is assembling the engine/tranny/transfer unit. I hope to have this done by the end of the week and the car pulled to bits over the long weekend.

Got a model number on this? Im chasing one that decent quality and so far found only cheap and nasty ones. Where abouts did ya get it?

BTW, VE headers are also block huggers but have the outlet further back rather than straight down avoiding the issue of them clashing with the engine mounts etc and are angled a bit better so you dont need a 90 degree bend right next to the chassis mount. They are also a LOT cheaper than the imported block hugger headers

I don't have a part number for the rivnut tool, sorry, but i can tell you i got it from Wurth. It's the only ratchet type they sell and it's the only one like it that i have seen on the market. The Tool cost around $580 inc. tax and that's without the rivnuts/studs which are around $.50 each.

As for the headers, i had contemplated using the VE manifold but i couldn't do this with them:







(these aren't my photos btw. I stole them from 'a fool and has money' off pirate)

and before someone starts off saying 'you won't get as much power with those pipes' - your right! But in fact, you recieve more power and tourque through these pipes up to about 3000rpm, it's just the overall peformance is less. Not the end of the world in a landcruiser

So, it's been 2 weeks since his last post .. whats been happening in the djroberts shed?!?!

I've been continually threatening to disassemble the car for a while now but i can honestly tell you that it will be this week! Updates are as follows:

-> I finally made those crappy little rock/dust guards to stop debris entering the bell housing. This was pretty easy but if you don't like working with sheet metal then you will understand why i was putting it off. Anyhow, here it is:




-> The fuel pump was next (and still isn't finished). I am using a Bosch 040 in tank pump. I picked up a couple of toggle clamps from my local water supply specialist and intend to weld the clamps to the arm as shown. Before welding i will relieve the bottom of the bracket to drop the pump another 3-4mm (the port is already lower than the original). Then it's just a matter of wiring and plumbing - easy!






I've also got a friend helping me through this journey ... meet Ned! Named after the black assassin Ned Roundtree.


-> Transfer case and gearbox (sorry, transmission) are now ready to go! I cleaned the housing with hydrofluoric acid, diesel and ct18 (not in that order) and it came up beautifully for an 88' hj61 transfer! Just need to sort the shifters but I'll do that when i get the engine in. I THINK THE VACUUM HOUSING LOOKS LIKE THE STAR SHIP 'ENTERPRISE'!








Other things completed but no photos sorry are:

-> Machined the bottom of the bell housing after realizing there was no drain in the bottom for water etc.

-> Mounted the flywheel, clutch, to the engine

-> mounted bell housing to gearbox/transfer assembly

-> Done research on engineering approval before putting a spanner on the car. I would like to have it certified in it's current modified state (2+2 and 315's) but will need to conduct a lane change test ... quite an aggressive maneuver but i think the old girl can handle it? I will also need the mud flaps and stock/approved seats in it amongst other things ...

I'll keep plugging away at it ...

Awesome work mate.

Sorry, don't have time text this morning, I'll let the pictures do the talking!

progress ? :D:D

was just looking at how u plan to run the exhaust, and I'm not sure how ur motor is going to sit in the car (i used the marks kit to mount mine), if urs sits in the same position as mine the steering arm behind the diff will hit the exhaust in that position for sure.