Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Still haven't got around to sorting out this cam business as i've been busy with other projects.
I'm not sure which cam I should get for our setups.
The lwb will have high comp fresh rebuilt g13b running 31's with 1litre transfer case driving mainly bog holes and beach tracks. (will have exhaust work possible carby upgrade)
The other rig is a fresh rebuilt G13B but mainly only driven on road with standard tyres and the occasional beach trek. (has exhaust work and have a twin carby setup almost ready for it)
Would the torque cam be best for drivability or could the stage 2 benefit them more as most of the driving is at higher revs as we aren't rock crawling?

This is the cam's i was thinking about buying, the 260 cam would suit me but the 272 looks like it would suit you more... But i've been talking to gypsy and i might just be following his lead...

Yeah there the ones i'm thinking of getting as there is no cam grinders in W.A. that I can find and I like the idea of a fresh brand new one Anyone here had a stage 2 cam?

Well I got the 272 billet cam I got from low range offroad installed and running in my stock rebuilt 1.3 and it is running pretty sweet. It needs a bigger carb to reach it's potential but it is going pretty good now! Has a bit of idle lump and I can feel it taking off when it gets over 2000rpm. Very competitive price for a brand new cam compared to a regrind aswell in my opinion. I'll see if I can take some photos this weekend of the difference between the stock and the 272 as I have the spare one sitting on my bench still.

Does anyone know what to set the tappets at with a mid range cam? Should it be the same as stock? Also should I advance the timing abit too or just leave it at stock 10 degrees?

Compression, head flow and supporting mods need to be taken into account when getting the most from a cam change. I would only bother with a performance cam with a raise in compression from new pistons or shaving the head if possible and also a light porting of the cylinder head and port matching the intake manifold. This coupled with a decent carby, and high flow exhaust will make noticeable and measurable gains in power. Like already mentioned though, all these things do seem to be a waste of money when an engine swap is cheaper and easier. All that aside I just spent a buttload of money to get my commodores 5L motor built to make over 500hp when I could have bought an LS motor for half the price, but they just don't sound right.

cj wrote:Regrinds can work quite well though as I found in my G16B.

hey cj, do you have the specs on the regrind you got done? I'm looking at getting the same thing done to my g16b

Sorry, lost them. I had Tighe Cams do mine. I filled out this http://www.tighecams.com.au/sales.htm" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; and they worked out the right grind (it wasn't one listed on their site).

GRPABT1 wrote:Compression, head flow and supporting mods need to be taken into account when getting the most from a cam change. I would only bother with a performance cam with a raise in compression from new pistons or shaving the head if possible and also a light porting of the cylinder head and port matching the intake manifold. This coupled with a decent carby, and high flow exhaust will make noticeable and measurable gains in power. Like already mentioned though, all these things do seem to be a waste of money when an engine swap is cheaper and easier. All that aside I just spent a buttload of money to get my commodores 5L motor built to make over 500hp when I could have bought an LS motor for half the price, but they just don't sound right.

The cam seems to be making more power than the stock one and i've already built up the engine so that was worth it as the cam was about $200. And yes you should have got an LS motor

My question is should I add a bit more advance to the timing over stock? And should the tappets be set abit different than stock?
I know have a couple of spare stock cams if any wants them.

We are currently combining a camshaft with a head grind (raised compression) and a chip in a 99 Jimny, it made an impressive 43 rwkW from memory prior at 6900 rpm so it will be interesting to see what we get when complete.

Joel

Mild cam and chip/retune netted a 10% gain from 1500 to 7000 rpm. The owner is happy with the performance.

Do they have extractors and any mods to the intake? That's not to bad for just a midrange cam.

PGS 4WD wrote:Mild cam and chip/retune netted a 10% gain from 1500 to 7000 rpm. The owner is happy with the performance.

So 10% gain to peak power as well? 43kw to 47.3kw?

JrZook wrote:

PGS 4WD wrote:Mild cam and chip/retune netted a 10% gain from 1500 to 7000 rpm. The owner is happy with the performance.

So 10% gain to peak power as well? 43kw to 47.3kw?

Ball tearing stuff!

44 to 49 rwkW, 10% sounded better, it's all relevant. 5kW in a 45 kW vehicle feels a lot more than 5kW in a 200kW vehicle.
The vehicle already had and exhaust and extractors, standard intake.

Cheers

PGS 4WD wrote:44 to 49 rwkW, 10% sounded better, it's all relevant. 5kW in a 45 kW vehicle feels a lot more than 5kW in a 200kW vehicle.
The vehicle already had and exhaust and extractors, standard intake.

Cheers

Should be quite noticeable in the lil jim! Equivalent to 200kw to 220kw for comparison in net gains. Do you have the before and after dyno runs that you could post up. Would be interesting to have a squizz!

Cheers Dan

Joel would it be possibl to see a dyno graph ? a 5 Kw gain across the board is pretty cool, what did the torque curve do ? was it more peaky ?

Yeah sorry I will try to remember to print them out and post them up.

http://i226.photobucket.com/albums/dd21 ... Power1.jpg" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;


I remembered at last, sorry

so an across the board gain .. nice
what would a job like that cost to redo .. say to the nearest $500 or $1000 ?

Am I reading that right? 322Nm from a 1.3 Jimny?

Why were the separate runs on the dyno done in 2nd and 3rd? That'd make the figures be way off wouldn't it?

They were all done in 3rd, dyno operator just too lazy to enter the right data, that would be me, if the gears were different the speeds would be different across the board. I'm not sure of cost, I don't do that end of things, about $700 per kW . Cam regrind, port and polish, machine head face to raise compression, supply fit and tune wire in chip, R&R cylinder head. VRS kit, Just a rough estimate mind you.

just realised thats my cars Dyno run. very happy with it

v840 wrote:Am I reading that right? 322Nm from a 1.3 Jimny?

I assume that is through an auto being a 3rd gear run, auto's on chassis dyno's always show higher than normal torque readings.