Outer Limits 4x4 Board

buggy wrote:It looks like the mechanical and electrical is gunna be around 2k, so a total conversion - around 3k. With the real cost probably at 4k by the time the extras add up.

Somehow none of that adds up to me

My first conversion on a patrol (L28 to 253V8 completed) cost $2200

My Last conversion which included $2200 JUST FOR THE MOTOR, cost under $3800 !!!! this also oncluded a 5spd box and an air pump and extractors and a 2.5" stainless steel system !!!

me thinks someone is helping them selves to ya wallet, how much of the conversion are you able to perform yourself, or are you just paying others to do it all ?

Kingy

what am I doing in this thread...... he likes phuckin phords!!!

I was planning on getting the work done, mainly because I don't have the time and I'm not overly confident I have the knowledge. Ordinarily, not having the knowledge probably wouldn't stop me. I just don't really think I should learn as I go with this one.

V8Patrol wrote:me thinks someone is helping them selves to ya wallet, how much of the conversion are you able to perform yourself, or are you just paying others to do it all ?

Sounds phuckin cheap to me... VH45 conversion into GQ at $10,000+ (think it was $13k), thats ~$3000 for motor..

So what was the other $10,000 wasted on ??????

The motor should be the dearest bit followed closely by the actuall adaptor kit and then the zorst ...... everything from there on should be realitivly cheap

I see this sort of ripoff all the time and its due largely to the rig owners not looking around for the best deals and buying "off the shelf" stuff is always expensive anyway.
2nd biggest problem is that they are not doing the work them selves and thats where the big bucks come into it........ labor charges are huge for this type of work but even so it should only take a week at the verymost for a straight swap from a 6 to an 8.

You are right Bruce about the $13,000 he spent and I cant for the life of me see how it was so expensive, I recon 1/2 that amount is probably more realistic, ..... but thats doing the work yourself.

Kingy

Nothing wrong with the ford 4.0L

Straight 6 are great for torque and there is plenty of know how around how to squeeze some good power and torque increases out of these engines

A twin cam from a BA would be nicer but

I have driven a supercharged 4.0l EL falcon it would give any V8 at the time a run for its money it is lighter and torque came on nice and low just right for a 4x4 about 240 KW

Most V8 conversion are soon followed by other expenses in drive train upgrades and in a number of cases the v8 doesnt make it any better off road and sometimes if you pick the wrong v8 it can be harder to control wheel spin and keep traction

sure the v8 is great for pissing comps with your mates at the pub or if your building a race truck but apart from that they arent worth the money beside why go a dinosour like the chev

AussieCJ7 wrote:why go a dinosour like the chev

proven track record both on the race tracks around the WORLD and in the passenger cars throughout the world not to mention the thousands of trucks running them , then there's ....

availibility

spareparts availibility

spareparts cost ( considerably cheaper than any other make !! )

purchase cost

bolt on horsepower products .... ( squilloins of these !! )

can be easily updated .... electronic dizzy, EFI, turbo, supercharged, NOS etc etc etc.... ( how much grunt can you afford ?? )

Various cubic inch blocks ( not limited to a 4.0 lit block )

can be built for either torque or horsepower easily ( and cheap)

WILL be around long after that shyte box 4.0lit plord motor is dead and burried !

THATS WHY !

AussieCJ7 wrote:Most V8 conversion are soon followed by other expenses in drive train upgrades

I have never seen a failed driveline from a properly done V8 conversion YET !!!

There are however a few conversions that have been done that "highlighted" needs for a driveline rebuild, SOLE reason being that the driveline was "original" and usually done 200,000k's + !!!. Ofcourse the new powerplant will show up the need for a set of new bearings to be fitted to the box and transfer, but if your smart that will be done b4 the V8 goes in.... the same will apply for the plord motor you are suggesting.

The ONLY driveline failure I know of was due to 44" swampers being fitted to a rig that was still running the "original" 4 spd box & transfer !!!...... he twisted a rear driveshaft shitless !!..... DRIVER ERROR ( stupidity) combined with POOR GEARING doesnt equal a failure in my book.

V8Patrol wrote:

AussieCJ7 wrote:
WILL be around long after that shyte box 4.0lit plord motor is dead and burried !

THATS WHY !

Yeah thats right I forgot all those chevs that get 100,000,000 Klms out of them like 100's of taxis get every year from the the so called plord

V8Patrol wrote:

AussieCJ7 wrote:Most V8 conversion are soon followed by other expenses in drive train upgrades

I have never seen a failed driveline from a properly done V8 conversion YET !!!

.

yeah but at the price he is talking for a conversion I am sure the driveline has not even be considered as with so many people who go the engine conversion path

if done properly any conversion will be good, other wise why do it, but cut corners and look out cheque book

The more the HP the more the oversights will be seen

$4000 will buy a lot of petrol for that 2F, and youll sell it easier later.

Bazzle

Was thinking same thing bazzle.

Surely there are other engines that go close to bolting straight in where the 2F was 4 more orsepowa?

if you do go this way 'castle auto-elec' in castlemaine can supply a wiring loom to adapt the ford stuff to the cruiser stuff and 'dellow' does a bellhousing i think. haven't done this myself but went through this process with a mk patrol i had, decided too much $ already wasted on car and sold it. i reckon 4litre is a good choice and regret not doing it after all.
hope it helps.

Yep, 4k will buy a lot of extra fuel for the 2F, but it's in need of a rebuild so there's 2k gone. There ain't terribly much you can do (as far as I know) to get much economy or power out of the 2f. By he time I did the basics, cam, extractors, carbie, there isn't gunna be too much money left over for fuel, which it's still gunna be sucking down at a great rate.

Resale? I'm happy to drive my sixty until we can't suck oil out of the ground anymore, after that I'll be looking into a hydrogen fuel cell conversion.


HHT - That's who i've been talking to about the conversion, so far they've been extremely helpful.

I had a Ford 6 in my 60 till I put in the deisel
80 K's extra per tank and more power than the original
3F which cracked in half. I ran the XE motor but would
go for the injected one if you wont to climb hills with out gas

I still have the complete Rod shop conversion kit
Yours for $500 if interested (Includes converted radiator and themo fan)

Do the conversion yourself it would be one of the ezyest conversions out there as long as you Know someone that can weld in the mounts