Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Ice wrote:group buy time ?

Id be up for one if we can get a good price.

ausyota wrote:

Ice wrote:group buy time ?

Id be up for one if we can get a good price.

x3

Ice wrote:group buy time ?

I can sharpen drills, its part of my trade lol, but yeah it is quicker to use a machine setup for it when you have more than a couple to do

unsure how these drill doctors go but for what it promises might make a lot of people happy that are struggling to keep drills sharp

Cept if the Trade Tools one will do the same (and it looks the same) for $99

I might take a few drills in. Thay said I can try it out.

Paul

drill doctor beuwt
can do by hand but why when doctor
does it for you / gets most of us out of
trouble; average jo blow; if you want better
spend $5000 or better

Make sure that whatever you buy is equivalent to the current model top of the line Drill Doctor 750X as this is the only model that allows split point and variable angle sharpening for different materials.
Can't comment on the quality of the chinese copies but they are still 2/3rds the price of the real deal.

ozhumvee wrote:Make sure that whatever you buy is equivalent to the current model top of the line Drill Doctor 750X

What's the price of the 750X?

I bought a really really cheap drill sharpener last year, it burnt out after 2 drills.
So I took the rest of my drill bits to a local workshop that I do some business with. Cost 24 beers to sharpen 30 drills.

ozhumvee wrote:Make sure that whatever you buy is equivalent to the current model top of the line Drill Doctor 750X as this is the only model that allows split point and variable angle sharpening for different materials.
Can't comment on the quality of the chinese copies but they are still 2/3rds the price of the real deal.

The 500x will do that - the 750 goes to 3/4" rather than 1/2"
Also has a better motor and a plastic box.

That's all I can find diff on the website.

Paul

me3@neuralfibre.com wrote:The 500x will do that - the 750 goes to 3/4" rather than 1/2"
Also has a better motor and a plastic box.

That's all I can find diff on the website.

I wouldn't mind being able to go up to 9/16 at least... these things are pretty tempting based on that review Shakes posted.

Sorry, who posted?

I'd be keen on one, but it depends on the price.

coxy321 wrote:I'd be keen on one, but it depends on the price.

what he said ^^^

v840 wrote:Sorry, who posted?

lol sorry, that was a brain fart.

Trade tools one is not variable angle. Does split point. Unsure on max size.

Drill Doctor from US is 110V 60Hz. A transformer will fix the 100V, but the motor may run hot depending on motor type.

The diff motor in the 750x may be better / worse.

Paul

me3@neuralfibre.com wrote:Trade tools one is not variable angle. Does split point. Unsure on max size.

Drill Doctor from US is 110V 60Hz. A transformer will fix the 100V, but the motor may run hot depending on motor type.

The diff motor in the 750x may be better / worse.

Paul

You can get the drill doctor in 240v though the aussie resellers.

I bought a Drill Doctor 500 for my old man about 18 months ago from Just Tools http://www.justtools.com.au/ It was the best price I could find at the time.

The sharpner works great BTW :-)

I took 3 blunt drills to TT coopers plains this morn. 4mm, 6mm, 12mm. Results where not inspiring. Without reading the manual it seemed pretty intuitive.
But
a) The grinding wheel was in the wrong spot. Ground 3 wrong to figure that out. Moved it to the stop where it should be. Manufacturing assembly error.
b) The web was ground at 80ish deg to the cutting land, not 90.

c) Attemping to split the point ground the tip off destroying that drill tip.

d) Attempting to resharpen the "damaged" drills after faulty sharpening was difficult at best.

Perhaps playing more would help. after 20 mins i knew more than anyone in their best and biggest store.

Spare diamond wheels where an unknown but "should be available".

The issue seemed to be with the "alignment" tool built into it to line up the flutes with the holder. It was not particularly good, interfered with already split drills in the larger size, and obviusly - was set or use wrong.

I'll give it a miss.

Ebay.com - drill doctor 750x
Ebay.com - 110V inverter 300w

Paul

I often sharpen my 13mm bits on a 9inch grinder lol!

And even then it will drill another 10-20 holes through a 15mm PFC aslong as you go slow and use some coolant. Infact, i only usually have to resharpen after i chip the tip by me not holding the drill dead still, or hitting a bit of weld or something.

I really dont see the need to get the angles perfect, anywhere close to the right angles works well, and as other people have suggested, on some materials, like thin sheet, you change the angles of the tip to suit the application anyway.

me3@neuralfibre.com wrote: after 20 mins i knew more than anyone in their best and biggest store.

this is not exactly a claim to fame..these people are mostly just Joe Blo salesmen and if you have used it for twenty minutes then you have probably used it for twenty minutes more than them

i bought a bandsaw off them the other day and the guy behind the counter couldnt find it on the computer until i stuck my head over the counter and said you are using the wrong model number..cheaper products pretty much always means cheaper service

on topic..hand sharpening is the way i do it on a bench grinder..but then i dont need it to be within 0.0003 of a degree to allow me to rivet stuff in

my dad bought himself a drill sharpener a few years back and he was always raving to me about how good it was..i will check it out next time i am up there

dave

80lsy gq wrote:but then i dont need it to be within 0.0003 of a degree to allow me to rivet stuff in

BWAHAHAHAHa

them rivets need to be within tight tollerance to take the appropriate loads

bad_religion_au wrote:

80lsy gq wrote:but then i dont need it to be within 0.0003 of a degree to allow me to rivet stuff in

BWAHAHAHAHa

them rivets need to be within tight tollerance to take the appropriate loads

DD 750x is the way to go - the added cost will be soon forgotten after many drills have been given a new lease on life....

Ours has had a flogging and is still going strong!

Cheers

I purchased a DD750X and sharpened over 150 drills the day I got it.

I was sick of buying new drills as I just couldn't get the angle right.

Best thing I ever did.

I figure the 150 or so drills have cost me less than $3.00 each and I've since done all of a mates, probably 100, and my FIL's drills another 20-30.

Highly recommend it as we're not all trained to do it right so take the eay way out.

zuffen wrote:I purchased a DD750X and sharpened over 150 drills the day I got it.

I was sick of buying new drills as I just couldn't get the angle right.

Best thing I ever did.

I figure the 150 or so drills have cost me less than $3.00 each and I've since done all of a mates, probably 100, and my FIL's drills another 20-30.

Highly recommend it as we're not all trained to do it right so take the eay way out.

How did you guys manage running it on Aussie mains power? No problems?

There is a book used in the TAFE system called "Fitting & Machining" by a bloke named Cullen. It covers drills & drilling practices, as well as a whole range of other stuff that comes in handy if you're into machining stuff as well as a lot of other useful information. Trouble is it costs about $80.

Another option is to get a hold of a new or properly sharpened large drill, ie: 19-25mm and check out the angles ground on that and get your blunt drills and practice, practice practice to try to copy the good drill. I was shown how to do it at trade school, and we had to practice on ground off drills until we could do <5mm, 5-13mm and >19mm. Once you have the skill down pat it's kind of hard to forget.

The correct motion is to get your drill set up at an angle about 28 degrees to the left of perpindicular to the grinding wheel with the lip of the cutting edge horizontal. Then proceed to take a cut and as you do you rotate the drill and at the same time lift the front of the drill and drop the shank to give your relief angle. It sounds complicated, but is easier to show than type up.
This guy writes it up pretty well: http://www.seabreeze.com.au/Forums/topi ... C_ID=39697

The most important thing is to give the cutting point clearance behind it, otherwise your cutting edge will just rub and not cut. Getting the length of the two cutting edges the same so that the point is in the centre of the web is next important so that the drill cuts to size and round.
Apart from that, the included angle of the cutting edges is not super important, it is usually 118 degrees but can be adjusted to give better results in different materials.

Correctly sharpened drills will cut true and not wander, using pilot drills, and the correct speeds and feeds will solve more problems than extra angles.
I'm not convinced that the benefits of multi-faceted drills outweigh the benefit of having the skill to simply and quickly re-sharpen your drills on a bench grinder when you need to.

You can buy a Drill Doctor in Australia which of course run on 240volts.

there is no subsitute for experience and you get experience by havin a go

Struth wrote:

me3@neuralfibre.com wrote:

Struth wrote:Very few auto drill sharpeners actually work well.
Best off to learn how to do it by hand. That way you can learn different sharpening techniques for different drilling applications.

Cheers

*Straps on flame suit*

I have some doubts (as does [s]industry[/s] "the internet") as to accuracy when done by hand. Trying to grind highly accurate matched angles with 2 or 3 facets (split point) whilst maintaining correct relief angles - hmm.

I know I can sharpen a drill - but I also can't do the above.

If anyone can do so - please post pics with an angle gauge to show accuracy.

I'll keep looking at shapening tools I think.

(before anyone asks "does it matter that it's not right" - yes - it matters to me as it's right when I buy it)

Paul

No need for a flame suit, not all of us were lucky enough to be taught by tradesmen and learn through on the job experience, so some of us need mechanical aids, like drill sharpeners or laser cutters and CAD systems.........

Because theys missin the skillz

It is handy trick to learn how to sharpen a drill bit by hand, i see people busting their arse taking ages to drill even one hole then i sharpen the bit use a heap more pressure and less speed and drill through like butter hole after hole.

There is enough info in this thread for anyone to learn how to do it for general use, the only thing i think that has'nt been mentioned is to constantly dip the drill bit in coolant whilst sharpening.

I do have problems drilling stainless though and would like to try sharpening a masonary bit for steel does anyone have more info on why and how to do this ?

Cheers.

bad mudda wrote:I do have problems drilling stainless though

Stainless is harder than mild steel, and a poorer conductor of heat. Use a slower speed and keep the drill tip cool - either take your time, or flood it with coolant/cutting compound.

bad mudda wrote:It is handy trick to learn how to sharpen a drill bit by hand, i see people busting their arse taking ages to drill even one hole then i sharpen the bit use a heap more pressure and less speed and drill through like butter hole after hole.

There is enough info in this thread for anyone to learn how to do it for general use, the only thing i think that has'nt been mentioned is to constantly dip the drill bit in coolant whilst sharpening.

I do have problems drilling stainless though and would like to try sharpening a masonary bit for steel does anyone have more info on why and how to do this ?

Cheers.

Best to use a CBN wheel, really only good for hard steel though. Zero rake too, flood coolant and a medium speed.

dogbreath_48 wrote:

ausyota wrote:

Ice wrote:group buy time ?

Id be up for one if we can get a good price.

x3

the DD750x at $500 retail is still going to be out of my price range as a group buy I expect. but an interested if the price is right.

- David