Outer Limits 4x4 Board

looks like it is all the way in to me?

350HJ75 wrote:

Remember that the remaining part can only be put on in one of two ways. Those 6 notches the hub gear fits into, 4 have an extra bit of material in the middle of them and 2 (the ones up and dwon in this pic) are just a big notch. You can see this in your pic. This is very important to the next peice going back on.

If you look at the final part to go back together, you'll see an extra little tab from the peice that holds the tension spring in place sitting at 2 of the 6 main tabs. Those 2 tabs need to fit into the notches that have no extra little bit of material in them I was talking about above.

Not sure if this is the problem in this case but Ive had trouble putting free wheeling hubs back together before I worked this out.


wow reading that back it sound a bit confusing... Ill try and get a pic

Here's what I mean:



Also make sure the hub is in the 'free' positing when it goes back together and looks something like in this pic.

cheers tom, yeah i have the manual that says you need to put that notch into the bigger slots, it actually fouls when the axle hits that 'cup' shaped stopper in the middle of the hub mechanism which in your diagram part of the big circle with the label "this tab must go" goes through.

tom_286 wrote:Here's what I mean:



Also make sure the hub is in the 'free' positing when it goes back together and looks something like in this pic.

I agree There is two was It can go both ways look similar try one way if it sits out turn it around

dogbreath_48 wrote:P.s. Should be a split pin on that steering arm/tie rod end nut

Good spot!

Are some free wheeling hubs on other toyotas differant? Dunno if this is the case, just an idea. They might have grabbed one from a 4 runner or something by mistake and that's causing the problem?

tom_286 wrote:Are some free wheeling hubs on other toyotas differant? Dunno if this is the case, just an idea. They might have grabbed one from a 4 runner or something by mistake and that's causing the problem?

the spline count on IFS ones are different from memory, but the body etc is the same.

are the splines sliding onto the splines on the free wheeling hub? any gunk that might be stopping it?

yes that split pin i have put on now, yeah the splines all slide nicely and there is not much gunk in there. its definately my hub and that as i painted them when i worked on them last so theyre mine but it is just the axle sticking out that is stopping it from going on all the way.

350HJ75 wrote:yes that split pin i have put on now, yeah the splines all slide nicely and there is not much gunk in there. its definately my hub and that as i painted them when i worked on them last so theyre mine but it is just the axle sticking out that is stopping it from going on all the way.

Can you push the CV/axle back in as far as the circlip allows? How much movement in/out does it have? (stick an m8 bolt in the end to get a good purchase)

How much did they charge you for the CV kit, as it can be just the felts, rubbers and steels for the knuckle, or it could've been new cv's.

I've worked on a 79 series which was converted to full time 4wd, and when they wanted to change it back we had to get new, shorter CV's.

I've done quite a few front end kits and it looks like the CV is sticking out too far.

Still think they've replaced them with longer ones. If they are wrong, it will only be too long by about 10-12mm from memory.

See if you can get to a wrecker or something and measure the length of a CV, better yet, get the original 'mechanics' to pull them out and check.

Cheers

the 'Cv overhaul kit' was $193 and i believe new cv's are more expensive than that. hopefully tomorrow they are open and i can suss it out

is it just 1 side or has this happend on both sides

thanks rob

ok i may have made a revelation...

i decided to take off the circlip and i did and behind it was a homemade spacer as shown in this pic.



with that spacer off the axle can slide backwards enough to get the hub locking mechanism on...

now what needs to be the position of the circlip? the only reason i can see for the spacer is to make sure the axle wont move around as its held out by the clip... here is a pic of the position of the groove for the clip with the axle pushed in as far as it will go.

that might be it????!!!!

the cvs should run hard up against the spindlle, normally you need to pull them all the way out to get the circlip on

either they are the wrong cvs or the spindle is knackered

there should be no need for the spacer

Paul

I'll vote for wrong CV also. Its farked that they let it leave the shop like that.

the only time ive seen a spacer, is when you run a longfield cv with a avm freewheeling hub and thats only in a 80 series, as all the 75 series cvs are the same, and you would never fit a 80 series cv in a 75 series for the size, so im guesing it must be a wrong cv, but at the end of the day if it came apart it has to go back togeather, unless the wrong parts have gone back in

rob

80's_delirious wrote:I'll vote for wrong CV also. Its farked that they let it leave the shop like that.

X2

80's_delirious wrote:I'll vote for wrong CV also. Its farked that they let it leave the shop like that.

yep, faarked.

If they have not swaped the cv, check the insde of the bolt on spindle, it should have a bronze pad for the cv to rub against


the part circled may be missing (not sure how you could forget it)


Paul

May not be their spacer, could be the last owners bodgy job.

But they should have pointed it out to you, also the jack head stuck to your car, for fcuk sake that is very slack

I wouldn't be going back there for more work from these clowns.

Cheers

One more thing, there is also at least 2 different types of brass bush that fit into the back of the spindles, if the wrong one has been used it also won't go in, found that out the hard way once. 79 series ones have roller bearings and the 75's don't, pretty sure about that too, been a while

Cheers

There was a model of ute that came out with a bigger bell on the CV (bigger then a 60 hilux) Buy about 3/5 mm or something like that but what ones run a longer stub shaft????

so even still the axle is too long now?

because i have stuffed around with this diff before and obviously if the hub locking mechanism fitted on i never would have thought twice about it not being right, making it a residual problem that existed befor the mechanics touched it.

The problem here is that either the vehicle was like this previously so why won't it go back together now or they've done this and are trying to mask another fault.
Either way it seems as though this repair may have been out of their league and perhaps they need to follow the manual when repair this for you. There is no shame in them not knowing or not being familiar but there is shame in not admitting it or not trying to find out.
It needs to come apart again and be inspected by someone more competent.

Dan

350HJ75 wrote:so even still the axle is too long now?

because i have stuffed around with this diff before and obviously if the hub locking mechanism fitted on i never would have thought twice about it not being right, making it a residual problem that existed befor the mechanics touched it.

Are you saying this was like this before you had taken it to the "shop" to be fixed. But it went back together b4??????

i have taken it apart and put it back together myself before cv's out and everything, but it all went together sweet. and now with the homemade spacer rmoved i can get it back together but i need to know why they put the spacer in.

350HJ75 wrote:i have taken it apart and put it back together myself before cv's out and everything, but it all went together sweet. and now with the homemade spacer rmoved i can get it back together but i need to know why they put the spacer in.

Obviously the spacer is there to stop the cv stub from drifting in and out. I would assume it was not there before and it was drifting a touch. Reason well thats the million doller question but i would assume it has the wrong axel in it and before it was just thrown together to get it going or someone didnt pay attention to parts or didnt care.

http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/ftopic175 ... el+lengths
Try this link to compare axel lengths once you have it apart.

Is the circlip really needed?

All my cruisers have been 2nd hand, and none of them have had the circlip in, so I didn't bother either and never had a problem. I do put a front hub kit through my cruiser every 18 months to 2 years. I also rip the cv's out every 6 months to repack with grease along with my wheel bearsings. I have only ever blown 1 CV before in an unlocked car due entirely to my driving style. Changed that, and with lockers I haven't blown a cv yet.....worn a few out and changed due to clicking etc, but never blown one on the track.

What troubles me is 75 series cruisers are common as shit in over here in the west, how have these clowns never worked on one?