Outer Limits 4x4 Board

wicked drafts.

almost has the silhouette of a datsun 240z

whats the car in the corner of the workshop? another buggy?

We just weighted the structures. With the windscreen (and a lot of Bondo…) it hit the scale at 249.5 kg. A little bit more than we expected, but it’s not bad.
The axles (Toyota HDJ80) weights: 120 kg front, 135 kg rear, complete axles.

So, we are still on the target of 1350 kg.

Thanks for looking

nicbeer wrote:wicked drafts.

almost has the silhouette of a datsun 240z

whats the car in the corner of the workshop? another buggy?

Well, this is my good ol' Nissan Y60. The one in my signature. It was good enough, at the date when we build it. Even now is good enough, but what we are building now is "the next generation".

thanks,

excellent workmanship, very very cool

care to discuss your suspension set up? As values? front axle roll axis? rear axle roll aixs? vehicle roll axis? etc

cheers,
Serg

WOW, this thing is going to take EPIC to another level.

the fabrication & attention to detail is outstanding. to use flat patch to find out the corner weights etc shows how much thought has been put into it, i can't wait to see the finished product!

We just welded the rear drive shaft exit, for the Mercedes G wagon t/case.


Thanks,

Fantastic fab work there, keep it up!

Gabriel wrote:

MightyMouse wrote:Welding looks like TIG not MIG to my very inexperienced eye.....

I would have expected TIG with the mention of alloy steel earlier on.

Hello,

Sorry, it was our "internet - IT" guy who made the confusions... Of course it is TIG, with a specific alloy wire. But, you know, the IT and building cars do not have a close relationship...;-)))

Thanks for looking,

Gabi

PS: the Dracula staff...nice ;-))

'

Nice work .. very quick, and neat (and neat workshop as well ) Great to see some cool non US based stuff as well.

Regarding IT and Cars .. you will find plenty of computer nerds on here who know their way around a workshop\building cars

After an entire week of having the dry sump’ staff in the Romanian customs, we finally managed to have it on our hands. The pumps, oil deposits and filter supports are from Aviaid, one of the Nascar car’s providers. I suppose it is good enough for our needs…;-)). We still didn’t decide where we will mount it: engine bay or in the rear… still thinking about it…

Thanks,

We finally built the t/case, g/box and engine mounts. It took a while… ;-)) Now we are in the process of installing the oil pump – dry sump system. Please note the very short distance between the t/case and the g/box, using a BMW rubber coupling, in order to be able to install the engine as compact as possible.

Thanks for looking,

Very nice work. Any chance of getting some photos of the other rigs in the shed.

Cris

Loving this thread!!!

Keep the pics coming.

We installed the dry sump pump on one of the cars. The crankshaft oil pump pulley will be 15 mm more to the front. Because of the exhaust we can’t install the pump more to the rear… Also, we finished some more reinforcements and we just moved to the “fitting area” the second car, the one with portal axles.

Regards,

We finalized the car’s design. Now we will send the files to the 5 axis machine, to make us the premolds. The car’s “body” has 13 parts that will be bolted to the structure, in such a way that if you want, you can dismount the car entirely.

this is too awesome

Meantime we fabricated the steering wheel supports for the both cars and the pedals for the TAT one. The clutch pump will be mounted in a strange way…it’s not finished, but we will post pictures asap.

Regards,

I might point out that the steering wheel is on the wrong side!

Ha, ha!

Awesome build, well done!

And the fuel deposits. In the TAT the capacity is 106.8 liters and in the C2C is 113.2 liters Our target was to have 100 liters plus, so its not bad…;-) The “canister” is stainless steel, and the welds will be done with a technique calls “pillow”, which means that you have to use a second argon gas bottle to fill the canister while you weld. That way the welds are strong, no strange interior garbage, etc. After that we will use a “substance” for stainless steel welding, in order to clean the burns.

Thanks,

TaifunOffroad wrote:And the fuel deposits. In the TAT the capacity is 106.8 liters and in the C2C is 113.2 liters Our target was to have 100 liters plus, so its not bad…;-) The “canister” is stainless steel, and the welds will be done with a technique calls “pillow”, which means that you have to use a second argon gas bottle to fill the canister while you weld. That way the welds are strong, no strange interior garbage, etc. After that we will use a “substance” for stainless steel welding, in order to clean the burns.

Thanks,

Ah, so you are going to purge weld (pillow) the tank and then pickle/passivate (clean the burn) the weld after to neutralise the heat affected zone. Love the welds and those neat corner gussets everywhere.

Nice welds, is it the pressure that makes it bead on the outside like that or just the nature of the weld?

GRPABT1 wrote:Nice welds, is it the pressure that makes it bead on the outside like that or just the nature of the weld?

No, its just the weld. We finished the fuel deposit welding, btw.

thanks,

And the axles are on their places. Actually, the result is making us pretty happy, as the calculations proved to be accurate.

I mean, the rear cardan shaft has a total of 55 mm total travel; the angles of the pinion are following the rear T/case exit very nice and so on. The front also is flexing nice, no touching no nothing.

Regards,

Damn, this is good to watch! You guys have excellent fabbing skills....those welds are beautiful. Looking forward to more updates!

ummmmmm........ HORN!
Top work guys keep it up.

The car interior start to take shape, we make it from aluminum the way you see below. We intend to build it from a minimum number of dismountable parts.

Thanks for looking

TaifunOffroad wrote:

You have the gearstick mounted to the Gearbox and the Chassie? Will this not cause problems when the gearbox moves around on its rubber mounts?

RUFF wrote:

TaifunOffroad wrote:

You have the gearstick mounted to the Gearbox and the Chassie? Will this not cause problems when the gearbox moves around on its rubber mounts?

looks odd. It looks like it has a pivot where it mounts to the box, and looks like a rubber sleeve where it mounts in the tube on the chassis, so there would be some flex there ??

Thanks, we know that. We mount it in order to check if everything is ok with the gears. We will add a silent block, a soft one.

thanks for looking,

Gabriel wrote:Thanks, we know that. We mount it in order to check if everything is ok with the gears. We will add a silent block, a soft one.

thanks for looking,

Thanks. Keep up the great work.

Wow.