Outer Limits 4x4 Board

berad wrote:Just Extend the bumpstops, so the tyres won't come to the top of the guard ettc.

surfute wrote:

RAY185 wrote:

surfute wrote:

RAY185 wrote:I don't see why you guys are talking about moving the front diff forward to clear 35s. A 35 will still be miles away from fitting the back of the guard or firewall. The biggest problem you'll deal with as mentioned is the standard 40 drag link (until you convert to 60 power steer) and hitting the bottom of the guard on compression. As said, adjusting bump stops will fix that.

well from what i was getting from the others that moving the diff forward would help to stop the 35s scrubbing on the guard with only a 2inch lift.

If anything, it will make it worse as if you have a look at a 40 series front guard, it tapers down at the front. While you're there, sight up where your wheel is currently sitting and see how far it is from the firewall/rear of guard. There are benefits to extending your wheebase but clearing 35s without a bodylift is not one of them.

so if i wanted to run 35's id have a 2inch spring lift and then a body lift of some sort?

RAY185 wrote:

surfute wrote:

RAY185 wrote:

surfute wrote:

RAY185 wrote:I don't see why you guys are talking about moving the front diff forward to clear 35s. A 35 will still be miles away from fitting the back of the guard or firewall. The biggest problem you'll deal with as mentioned is the standard 40 drag link (until you convert to 60 power steer) and hitting the bottom of the guard on compression. As said, adjusting bump stops will fix that.

well from what i was getting from the others that moving the diff forward would help to stop the 35s scrubbing on the guard with only a 2inch lift.

If anything, it will make it worse as if you have a look at a 40 series front guard, it tapers down at the front. While you're there, sight up where your wheel is currently sitting and see how far it is from the firewall/rear of guard. There are benefits to extending your wheebase but clearing 35s without a bodylift is not one of them.

so if i wanted to run 35's id have a 2inch spring lift and then a body lift of some sort?

While thats not really what I said, it is probably the ideal way to do it if you don't want to limit your suspension travel.

What I was simply saying is that the position of the front axle does not need to be moved forward to clear 35s, if anything it will make it more of a problem with the downward slope of the front of the guard. There is miles of room to the rear of the guard anyway so no need to go frward unless you want to increase wheel base for other reasons.

You will have 2 problems with 35s.

1: You will need to limit your turning circle (by adjusting your steering stops) to stop the tyre hitting the stock 40 drag link (unless you swap to 60 steering or big offset rims). A body lift will not change this.

2: You will need to significantly lower your bump stops to limit your up travel or you will mince your guards if you have any sort of flex. A body lift will reduce your need to limit down travel by lowering bump trops or negate the need entirely...again, depending on how much flex you have.

I'm not a huge fan of body lifts even though I have one. My best advice to you is to put the tyres on with whatever spring lift you intended and see how close it comes to hitting when flexed. Then decide if you want to adjust your bump stops or do a body lift or a combination of the 2.

TWISTY wrote:My 40 runs a 4" susp lift and extended shackles. My bumpstops are spaced down 3" to stop the 35s rubbing. Had to trim my fronts guards too, as the 35s rubbed bad on them when I moved the front axle forward 1.5".

tufflux88 wrote:if i were you id stick to the tyres you have now for a while until you learn some more about forbying and setups.
not cutting into you but if you get 35s they might take you places beyond your driving capability and get you into ALOT of trouble
i ran 31's for the first few trips when i got my lux then i borrowed some 33's for a few months and then went onto 35s after id learnt a fair bit about my car,how it works,suspension mods,diy stuff and what i wanted to achieve

what do you want to achive by running 35s?

tufflux88 wrote:if i were you id stick to the tyres you have now for a while until you learn some more about forbying and setups.
not cutting into you but if you get 35s they might take you places beyond your driving capability and get you into ALOT of trouble
i ran 31's for the first few trips when i got my lux then i borrowed some 33's for a few months and then went onto 35s after id learnt a fair bit about my car,how it works,suspension mods,diy stuff and what i wanted to achieve

what do you want to achive by running 35s?

surfute wrote:

tufflux88 wrote:if i were you id stick to the tyres you have now for a while until you learn some more about forbying and setups.
not cutting into you but if you get 35s they might take you places beyond your driving capability and get you into ALOT of trouble
i ran 31's for the first few trips when i got my lux then i borrowed some 33's for a few months and then went onto 35s after id learnt a fair bit about my car,how it works,suspension mods,diy stuff and what i wanted to achieve

what do you want to achive by running 35s?

the tyres on it now are worn out 32 all terrains
so i think the 33 should be right.
thats what old mate said u will go to far and get urself into trouble.
cheers mick

i thought if i ran 35's id be able to get to the harder,better places
with a more diff clerance.

surfute wrote:would 33's fit with no lift ?