Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Pauwolf wrote:2h is diesel
2f is petrol

you have been corrected

thank you

are the 2h's a good motor on fuel ?

chunks wrote:Both the 2F and v6 produce 290nm of torque, though the v6 does it at 3200rpm, and from what I can find the 2F does it around 1800rpm. Still injection is a lot nicer to drive then a carby 2F.

It is nicer to drive, but at 3200rpm what good is the torque, unless you have gearing where it doesn't matter which it won't, price is a consideration for adaptors etc, injected brings wiring and the need to protect certain electrical things from dust and especially water

Just put a vn V6 with auto in my comp truck and its great!!!!!! easy as to work on, wire up and cheap too

surfute wrote:are the 2h's a good motor on fuel ?

I used to get around 13L/100km in my 60 on 33s" tyres.

Oh and for the record, I wouldn't use a VN v6 for anything other then a boat anchor *shudder*

chunks wrote:

surfute wrote:are the 2h's a good motor on fuel ?

I used to get around 13L/100km in my 60 on 33s" tyres.

Oh and for the record, I wouldn't use a VN v6 for anything other then a boat anchor *shudder*

hahaha what have you done to it to get 13L/100km?

Dude, by the time you factor in an engine swap, and engineering, you will have spent several thousand dollars.

This could be better spent on fuel, until you work out what you want.

If you decide to keep it, you can then decide to do an engine swap

Chances are, in 12-18 months you are going to want some thing else, then your engine swap is down the drain

me, i would put a 2H or 12HT, but if this is your first car that $4-5000 is better spent driving it

Paul

surfute wrote:

chunks wrote:

surfute wrote:are the 2h's a good motor on fuel ?

I used to get around 13L/100km in my 60 on 33s" tyres.

Oh and for the record, I wouldn't use a VN v6 for anything other then a boat anchor *shudder*

hahaha what have you done to it to get 13L/100km?

probably nothing, thats about what mine got, with a top speed of 110km/h

topped out at 90 with the 35s on

2H = good on fuel, crap on power

( think about 75KW)

Paul

its my first car and i didnt get to drive it because the brakes are stuffed. so me and dad are restoring it.
and ive got another year and abit till i get to drive it by my self.
so wondering if it was worth changing the motor

surfute wrote:just wondering what V6 engines people have put in there 40s?

like a v6 chevy

not the normal motors thats came with them.

everyone always has an opinion . if we go back to the very first question asked for this thread it is what i answered .. 'what v6 engines do people run' ?

All i did was say i had a v6 engine in a 40 , as do a few people out there . no need to have a winge about it , its what i and many others have done , it works for me and thats all that matters, i don't sit here and force it down everyones throat to do the same , i couldn't care less what anyone else does as everyone has a different need from their vehicle .

But have to agree with paulwolf ,might be a good idea to try what you have first and see who it goes, either way you go will cost money which could buy a lot of fuel .

chunks wrote:Both the 2F and v6 produce 290nm of torque, though the v6 does it at 3200rpm, and from what I can find the 2F does it around 1800rpm. Still injection is a lot nicer to drive then a carby 2F.

or you could put in an injected motor with the same/more torque at 1800.

the majority of the cost of the conversion is labor/adapters, so why bother scrimping on the motor if it's going to be a pig to drive (and 3200rpm torque peak in something as aerodynamic as the QE2 will be a pig onroad).

i mean you could get an Eb2 - AU inline 6, injected etc, for not much more than the VN motor... and it's got a much nicer torque curve.

well the bodys off and its almost fully stripped down so now is the time to look at changing the motor over.

try looking for a 12-ht out of a 60 series. a lot of people have said they were the best diesel of the 80s and are a better engine than the later 1hdt. just another opinion for ya mate.
cheers

luk3y wrote:try looking for a 12-ht out of a 60 series. a lot of people have said they were the best diesel of the 80s and are a better engine than the later 1hdt. just another opinion for ya mate.
cheers

thanks mate

hey does any one know how much a coversion cost on a 12ht?

surfute wrote:hey does any one know how much a coversion cost on a 12ht?

alot.

motor alone costs around 4g for an unopened runner...

bad_religion_au wrote:

surfute wrote:hey does any one know how much a coversion cost on a 12ht?

alot.

motor alone costs around 4g for an unopened runner...

i was thinking more of a second hand one.

surfute wrote:

bad_religion_au wrote:

surfute wrote:hey does any one know how much a coversion cost on a 12ht?

alot.

motor alone costs around 4g for an unopened runner...

i was thinking more of a second hand one.

You might be able to source a rusted out 60 series with 12ht for 3 grand or so, the 12HT isn't cheap. If it was me, I'd probably keep the F donk, unless you really have cash to burn.

surfute wrote:hey does any one know how much a coversion cost on a 12ht?

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/12ht-engine-toyo ... 2304b73543

$1200 with 2 days to go

sold for $2750

thanks mate .

hey do the chevs come in desiels?

6.2 and 6.5 litre chev diesels, so yes, they're V8s by the way.

what about in the v6 's?

An alloytec V6 from a VY commo would probably be a good a bet and can get them with very low kays with auto gearboxes for under a $1000. Personally I wouldn't bother. As it sounds like your going to be doing a full restoration it'll take a year or more and by then you'll be allowed to drive a V8.
I wouldn't touch any of the toyota diesels unless it was a factory turbo but they cost a fortune and in the end you could have a GM v8 with more power fitted for less money than it costs to buy the diesel motor.
Keep driving it with the 2f until you can drive well then go out looking at engine swaps as they aren't cheap (still cheaper than fixing my old tojo diesel ) An you will want to get the right motor in there to start off with than say going to the expense of putting a 2h in there when you realise that when you put your foot down you almost start going backwards and your using as much fuel as a performance V6/V8 doing it.

6V53 Detroit, like some of these

http://smithtandl.com/services_canada_i ... parts.html

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xypigwaqwnc

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZvJxeAqQcY0

5.3 litre supercharged and/or turbocharged two stroke diesel V6. Aluminium block with ex-military models, over 200 HP depending on injector type and torque figures - well there's not a number big enough. And the noise - oooohhhhhhhhh

At over 700 kilos might need to uprate the springs though

surfute wrote:

berad wrote:i know the 1hz/1fz goes in pretty easy, but the 1hz is expensive being diesel,1fz (petrol 4.5l) will be cheaper , unless you can pick one up cheap, impressive motor in a 40 goes really well n/a or with a turbo kit, can p platers have diesel turbo?

i have heard they are able to because doesnt change the power a hole lot.
which one would have better bang for my buck? fuel wise

P Platers can drive factory turbo diesels but any aftermarket turbo conversion or engine swap they, as far as my understandings of the P plaer rules, can not drive a vehicle that has modifitions requiring a mod plate such as an engine conversion

Kitika wrote:An alloytec V6 from a VY commo would probably be a good a bet and can get them with very low kays with auto gearboxes for under a $1000. Personally I wouldn't bother. As it sounds like your going to be doing a full restoration it'll take a year or more and by then you'll be allowed to drive a V8.
I wouldn't touch any of the toyota diesels unless it was a factory turbo but they cost a fortune and in the end you could have a GM v8 with more power fitted for less money than it costs to buy the diesel motor.
Keep driving it with the 2f until you can drive well then go out looking at engine swaps as they aren't cheap (still cheaper than fixing my old tojo diesel ) An you will want to get the right motor in there to start off with than say going to the expense of putting a 2h in there when you realise that when you put your foot down you almost start going backwards and your using as much fuel as a performance V6/V8 doing it.

thanks mate.
me and dad have been talking about what to do( still dont know yet )
might just get it rebuilt and then look at swapping it later on.

does any one know how many liters for 100 ks ?

thanks

Don't rebuild it if it's not stuffed. The 2F is underpowered but is a solid engine and will go forever if looked after. You're seriously throwing your money down the tube if you're rebuilding an engine just because you're restoring the car. Restore the car and leave the engine, drive it until you know for sure what engine you want in there.

RAY185 wrote:Don't rebuild it if it's not stuffed. The 2F is underpowered but is a solid engine and will go forever if looked after. You're seriously throwing your money down the tube if you're rebuilding an engine just because you're restoring the car. Restore the car and leave the engine, drive it until you know for sure what engine you want in there.

ray its a F motor not a 2F its a 74 not a 75 when the 2F's came out
but you do make a very good point.

Matt_85Lux wrote:

surfute wrote:

berad wrote:i know the 1hz/1fz goes in pretty easy, but the 1hz is expensive being diesel,1fz (petrol 4.5l) will be cheaper , unless you can pick one up cheap, impressive motor in a 40 goes really well n/a or with a turbo kit, can p platers have diesel turbo?

i have heard they are able to because doesnt change the power a hole lot.
which one would have better bang for my buck? fuel wise

P Platers can drive factory turbo diesels but any aftermarket turbo conversion or engine swap they, as far as my understandings of the P plaer rules, can not drive a vehicle that has modifitions requiring a mod plate such as an engine conversion

thanks matt the clears alot up

I'm not 100% sure on how it works but that is my understanding of the rules. Best thing to do is ring Qld Transport and find out exactly whether or not you can do an engine swap or not, before getting to far into the whole conversion thing