Outer Limits 4x4 Board

ferozamaniac wrote:You can fit a 3cm spacer but you will need to make 4 holes so you can use longer bolts.

The bottom spacer can only be around 3.5cm

Hello Ferozamaniac, can you post some more pictures of your lower arm ball joint spacers. This is the first time I have seen somebody actually do a bottom ball joint spacer. Is it already installed? How is the ride?
Any problem we should anticipate with bottom spacers?

It is already fitted in the lower control arm but not yet mounted in the car....
I hope one of the next days I'll find time to do it.....

You shall have all pictures and stuff when it is ready....

As for mik_08, who asked.... I was running on 205/80/16 with 73cm diameter with only 4cm body lift. I'm not planning to use bigger tyres because the stock gear's ratio can't easily handle bigger tyres....

Where can i get a 50mm lift kit here in the western suburbs of sydney?

I think your question might be better as "where can i get a 50mm lift" - Feroza's aren't a vehicle that the aftermarket caters for, so get what you can wherever you can.

Most people seem to DIY as its not particularly difficult and there's lots of info posted.

Will do, hey MM is there any pics of your beast?

Not really a pics man.... but some are in an issue of "Custom 4WD's" mag last year.... - i'll see if i can find anything around.

Mouse is a bit sorry for itself atm - i've got a complete new engine ( Mazda BPD Turbo ) and powertrain for it but seem to keep putting off the "big day".

Damm Jeep gets all the attention. Still i miss driving Mouse, it is a most unusual Feroza in so many ways.

Thanks again MM as myself a feroza maniac (you have to be to own one) love to see modifed ones

Update on the mods:
Raised yesterday the rear of the car and cranked the bars.....

Spring leafs where forged and curved gave a 8.5cm lift.
The second spring leaf was replaced by a reinforced one, as long as the first leaf. You can see the curved end witch will hold the rear axle straight in case the first leaf brakes.



This is as it shows from behind:


Also replaced the buches of the spring leafs with super-pro.
A great difference!!

Front of the vehicle was cranked about 6cm.


Also to be placed in the next days:
Front upper and lower ball spacers, terraflex shackles, 4 longer shocks, and spacers for the axle.

This is how it stands now.


*The only things worth noticed so far is that the rear stock size shocks are fully extended to be fitted with the new leafs.....
And the rear axle was moved about 2cm to the front pulling oute the central axle 2.5cm. This means I shoud make an spacer for that also.....

Nice looking car. One question did you crank up the torsion bars to the max?

chugga wrote:Nice looking car.

Thanks! I try to keep it as close to the original look and minimal....

One question did you crank up the torsion bars to the max?

No not really....
I cranked it up go gain 7cm.
It now has a clearance of 2cm from the upper bump stop to the control arm.
When the upper ball joint spacers will be placed, it will increase +4cm of clearance.

I believe if you want to go to the max height you can crank one or two cm more....

BUT:
As it is now it is still smooth to ride. It doesn't bump and the steering control is fine. If you crank up more it should get bumpy, and I don't believe it would be pleasant in driving.

The gain of 6-7cm from cranking is a limit in pleasure.
As it is (without the spacers) it has lost mostly all of the down-travel so if someone wants to crank that much should make an upper ball joint spacer.

That looks great mitsos!

Have you managed to get the spacers in yet? I'm looking at doing all my lifting in the next few weeks as uni has FINALLY let off!

Now should I first lift then second get tyres then third do barwork so that I make sure the bar work wont interfer with wheels? Only going with 30" mud tyres as I don't want to loose power.

No.... I haven't really done anything yet because I am rebuilding the house as well and there is no much time left

I hope that I will find some time within the next days to do the rest of the work.

The easy way to go is
1. Choose (fix or buy) the rear spring leafs and shackles
2. Crank up the bars
3. Install spacers and front shocks
4. Measure and get rear shocks
5. finish all details spacers brake lines ets
6. Get new tires (In the picture the car is with the small (summer) tires)

I'd say you stay below 30's. I have 206/80/16 witch is 3cm smaller than 30's and 5-7cm narrower than 30's.

Well the lift hasn't quite happened but the spacers are now made and are awaiting the install. Any particular grade for the bolts that I should know of?

I was also wondering if there are issues with installing both top and bottom spacers prior to the rest of the lift(ie the rear springs and new shocks)? Would it be dangerous to drive? or is it best to do it after?

And when I finally do install them is it just a case of
1) jacking the fez up, wheel off, supporting the bottom control arm so that the torsion bar doesn't pull it down
2) supporting the hub/axle to stop it from hanging freely
3) unbolting top ball joint, installing spacer and bolting back up
4) unbolting bottom ball joint, installing spacer and bolting back up
5) enjoy a coldy... oh and reverse step 1 i suppose.

hmm... are those bolts with the round head friction welded to the ball joint plate or something? whats the best way to remove them?

Just press studs, use a vice with a large short socket on the other (have socket over round stud head), turn away and hey presto out they come.

ahh wonderful news!... though is it at all possible to do this without removing the balljoints from the axle hubs? and if not how much do I have to dismantle before I can get them off?

Initially I was planning to unbolt the top balljoint and just insert the spacer and bolt it back up and repeat for the bottom. Is that possible in-car?

Top is easy enough to do with hub etc still attached, had a look when I did the top balljoint, doing it much the same way should not be a problem, would be easier to take whole arm off but.

ok How much of a job is it to get both arms off? Time wise? Torsion bars have to be dissconnected right?

My only problem ... from what I can... see is drilling the holes from underneath.