Outer Limits 4x4 Board

mike_nofx wrote:
BUT If running say 2" bumpstops, with 3" lifted coils, you could run 5" shocks. So downtravel is not lost.

When running 4+" shocks you need bump extensions anyway to stop the shock bottoming out.

but there comes a point where it is link geometry/binding, not shock length that limits travel... so sacrificing up travel when an EASIER option exists (bodylift), seems counter intuitive to me. especially since your not gaining anything by going the spring lift/bump extension route, except costing more $$$ for a more unstable rig. plus as has been pointed out, quite often factory suspension geometry at standard ride height often performs much better than when you've made all your link angles steeper.

and you can run 4+ shocks without bump extentions... build taller shock towers

low and stable is king.

hey just my 2cents, i jsut bought 35"s few days ago and they fit nicely at the rear of my 80 series TD with a 2" spring lift. and im getting a 30mm spring spacer to chuck in the front to get me by for now. but im not gonna have any problem atm unless i try some stupid terrain.


so try 3" spring and 30mm spring spacers front and rear. its better than a body lift and if u dont want to go 4" and stay at 3" u could chuck the spacer in and out whenever.

erik121 wrote: its better than a body lift.

want to qualify that statement?

bad_religion_au wrote:

erik121 wrote: its better than a body lift.

want to qualify that statement?

Good question. If he means "simpler & easier" it's hard to argue.

I can't think of any other way that statement could work.

bloody hell this is a confusing argument onto which is better!

not to hijack this thread, BUT...

in terms of my leaf sprung 75 cruiser...to be able to fit 35's its best to do a 2 inch spring lift (done) and a 2 inch body lift (cheap and simple)?

again in terms of suspension is it worth chucking on extended anti inversion shackles all round? (1 inch of lift)

and IF i still get rubbing with the 35's then i'm led to believe that the front bump stops should be extended so it doesn't rub?

cheers

on a 75 all you need is 2 inch lift and move the diff 1 inch forward no rubbing

did you flip the springs or redrill the spring perch/u bolt plate to get your 1" forward?

cheers

Back to the original post, maybe you could look at wider offset rims to counteract the rub inside the guards at compression. Legally (in qld anyway) on a 4wd vehicle with live axles front and rear you can widen the track by 50mm. This coupled with only a 2 inch spring lift may do the trick.

maddog_75 wrote:did you flip the springs or redrill the spring perch/u bolt plate to get your 1" forward?

cheers

re drill the perch

hillbilliywheelchair wrote:

maddog_75 wrote:did you flip the springs or redrill the spring perch/u bolt plate to get your 1" forward?

cheers

re drill the perch

just the perch? thought you had to do the U bolt plate to match?

maddog_75 wrote:

hillbilliywheelchair wrote:

maddog_75 wrote:did you flip the springs or redrill the spring perch/u bolt plate to get your 1" forward?

cheers

re drill the perch

just the perch? thought you had to do the U bolt plate to match?

yer forgot about that