Posted: Wed Apr 07, 2010 8:15 pm
GU diffs are 220mm wider than the hilux ones, so about 8 inches. you need to out board the front springs as the drivers side would sit on top of the pumkin if you dont.
NICK
NICK
Aussie Hardcore Wheelers
https://outerlimits4x4.com.au/
what u mean by out board? Mount the coil on the outside of the chassis rail?NICK wrote:GU diffs are 220mm wider than the hilux ones, so about 8 inches. you need to out board the front springs as the drivers side would sit on top of the pumkin if you dont.
NICK
what do you mean? diff heads. setup the diff properly and it should take all the power without too much drama. If you are snapping the head off the pinion then don't look at nissan's for an upgrade. They both run near identical pinion bearing sizes although the GQ/GU's seem to snap quite easily right before the step after the outer pinion bearing5middy wrote:supercharger Lexus v8 which loves to destroy hilux diff heads?
I have only seen patrol diffs snap rear pinions when the trailing arms snap causing a severe angle which i do not think any diff will handle. I suppose you could look at danas if the money allows but I know you will not have any dramas and I am sure lots of others will agree using a GU front and GQ rear is a great choice for what you are doing and running.1MadEngineer wrote:what do you mean? diff heads. setup the diff properly and it should take all the power without too much drama. If you are snapping the head off the pinion then don't look at nissan's for an upgrade. They both run near identical pinion bearing sizes although the GQ/GU's seem to snap quite easily right before the step after the outer pinion bearing5middy wrote:supercharger Lexus v8 which loves to destroy hilux diff heads?
Wont that interfere with the steering links?ludacris wrote:It is going to be wider but by changing to a different + offset rim you should be able to get it close and it will give it great driving caracteristics compared to having the normal wider offset rims.
Cris
If you go too much it will. Sticking to a standard patrol rim offset will get it a little closer. Dont think you will get anything more + than that of the shelf anyway.Slunnie wrote:Wont that interfere with the steering links?ludacris wrote:It is going to be wider but by changing to a different + offset rim you should be able to get it close and it will give it great driving caracteristics compared to having the normal wider offset rims.
Cris
Do you have a link for ecgs?S.CoXy wrote:Just got 2 toyota lockers from ECGS delivered to aust for 623AU and a quote for around USD1000 for a set of CM axels. FOX coil overs are about 300 a corner but you need to be sure of the size.... As far as wheel trac goes all the comps ive watched in VIC they are all one use track with little to no ruts ( execpt for a single rock and log section ) so travel and under carage clearance are more important when building a truck.
100" wheel base seams to be the best????!?
The 24v 7.8 Superduty motors would quite easily be the best 24v motor for winch comps. And as Wazza made the first adpater for these motor specifcally for me I'll say I've a had a fair bit of experience with them. Also I've been running the 7.8's since the first shipment into NZ in 2005. The first motor I bought is still going strong with only new brushes fitted.mrgrumpysleeps wrote:from my understanding 7.8's are no good piggy backed as they destroy themselves.bogged wrote:7.8hp motors are not free.mrgrumpysleeps wrote:make the adaptor yourselfHmickyd555 wrote:mrgrumpysleeps wrote: -twin motors 1k
where do you buy these from?
nzdarin wrote:The 24v 7.8 Superduty motors would quite easily be the best 24v motor for winch comps. And as Wazza made the first adpater for these motor specifcally for me I'll say I've a had a fair bit of experience with them. Also I've been running the 7.8's since the first shipment into NZ in 2005. The first motor I bought is still going strong with only new brushes fitted.mrgrumpysleeps wrote:from my understanding 7.8's are no good piggy backed as they destroy themselves.bogged wrote:7.8hp motors are not free.mrgrumpysleeps wrote:make the adaptor yourselfHmickyd555 wrote:
where do you buy these from?
Now if you are talking the 12v 7.8 then that is a different story and the 6hp Warn motor is a better option.
http://eastcoastgearsupply.com/ludacris wrote:Do you have a link for ecgs?
Cris
From point of view you are correct but if you don't have the $$$ or you spend too much you are more worried about braking it then you are then driving it... I have drove a $100 padoc bomb fastest that a liberty and see a $1700 MQ shorty out drive $80 000 trucks with a strong right foot and a whole lot of I DON"T GIVE A FUCK!!!! and i'll fix it cheap latter.dude i`m in the middle of building a gq for winch comps and i`m hitting the 40k mark and still got loads to go lol...
its not a cheap thing to build it right and reliable,
old saying speed cost money... how fast u wanna go ?
i wanna have a good crack so making the car reliable is the main thing for me
just my 2c werth
cheers
i would've thought an easy 110" -115" for winch challenge style events?S.CoXy wrote:Just got 2 toyota lockers from ECGS delivered to aust for 623AU and a quote for around USD1000 for a set of CM axels. FOX coil overs are about 300 a corner but you need to be sure of the size.... As far as wheel trac goes all the comps ive watched in VIC they are all one use track with little to no ruts ( execpt for a single rock and log section ) so travel and under carage clearance are more important when building a truck.
100" wheel base seams to be the best????!?
The lux is on the small scale of budget for competitive winch challenge trucks. And yeah, over 50k to build it to what it is....RUFF wrote:Ill give Laurie one thing he can drive and he has a great cable runner. But you are seriously kidding yourself if you beleive that car is not a big dollar rig. I doubt you could build the same car for under 50k.mrgrumpysleeps wrote:Research Laurie Sternbeck in his 1UZ luxy, not a million dollar truck, no 1000HP motor, just everything in balnce.
pigletracing wrote:a RECIPIE THAT WORKED FOR ME ( but like all challenge class illegal on road)
(1) SURF CHASSIS, (most wreckers usualy them away) it weighed 1/2 the amt of a GQ chassis & is already 5 link rear end.(legnthen your trailing arms)
(2) Graft on GU front diff & GQ rear (a skinnier track in the rear for cornering) 4.88 ratios (from H4)
(3) light weight motor, I went V6 commy & auto trans (got the complete car with computer ect for $300) had more than enough power to turn 37",(used to reach 130klm in low range b4 hitting the rev limiter) but you could go a factory supercharged V6 for not much more coin.but more zoomzoom.
(4) marks adaptors have all engine mounts addaptors for trannys ect you will need & that cost me $2ish"K" (I used a hilux trany.
(5) BODY ist about now you can start thinking of what you want to use.
you dont have to use surf/fourrunner or hilux just because you used a surf chassis, you probably wont use the factory chassis body mounts. As the body you pick will be moved back to gain maximum approach angle, & the radiater/oil coolers thrown up on the tray to keep them away from mud & sticks. I used a Feroza & because it was a soft top I only had 1/2 the body to cut away, theres millions out there & arnt worth 2cents at the wreckers. If I did it again Id pick a Zook body & cut it into an extra cab or get a rav 4 thats been ass hit & cut it down.
(6) TRAY & Finishing
#NB go to your enginere 1st..
have a rough plan of what your doing IE- chassis, engine,body.
he will tell you what you need to do, as he will be doing the certificates for road worthy. leave 31's on it at 1st & never say your making a race car, just a project 4wd for trips & light club stuff.
after its regoed then go the biger tyres & lift.
YES, as the top line said. (but like all challenge class wil be elegal on the road) even my wifes GU (tourer) has bits that RTA would pick. cant win!!!frp88 wrote:pigletracing wrote:a RECIPIE THAT WORKED FOR ME ( but like all challenge class illegal on road)
(1) SURF CHASSIS, (most wreckers usualy them away) it weighed 1/2 the amt of a GQ chassis & is already 5 link rear end.(legnthen your trailing arms)
(2) Graft on GU front diff & GQ rear (a skinnier track in the rear for cornering) 4.88 ratios (from H4)
(3) light weight motor, I went V6 commy & auto trans (got the complete car with computer ect for $300) had more than enough power to turn 37",(used to reach 130klm in low range b4 hitting the rev limiter) but you could go a factory supercharged V6 for not much more coin.but more zoomzoom.
(4) marks adaptors have all engine mounts addaptors for trannys ect you will need & that cost me $2ish"K" (I used a hilux trany.
(5) BODY ist about now you can start thinking of what you want to use.
you dont have to use surf/fourrunner or hilux just because you used a surf chassis, you probably wont use the factory chassis body mounts. As the body you pick will be moved back to gain maximum approach angle, & the radiater/oil coolers thrown up on the tray to keep them away from mud & sticks. I used a Feroza & because it was a soft top I only had 1/2 the body to cut away, theres millions out there & arnt worth 2cents at the wreckers. If I did it again Id pick a Zook body & cut it into an extra cab or get a rav 4 thats been ass hit & cut it down.
(6) TRAY & Finishing
#NB go to your enginere 1st..
have a rough plan of what your doing IE- chassis, engine,body.
he will tell you what you need to do, as he will be doing the certificates for road worthy. leave 31's on it at 1st & never say your making a race car, just a project 4wd for trips & light club stuff.
after its regoed then go the biger tyres & lift.
Thats is so funny because the whole reason the event organizer what it legal and road regestered is for the third party. Now I hope THIS NEVER Happends someone gets killed I would like to see where the 6 inch lift and 37 inch tyres go. You can't have it both ways why don't you build it for MMM's production class?
Haha 30 spline axles...GQ's run bigger axles than that in their front diffs.bad_religion_au wrote:why all this blabber about GQ diffs?
60 series diffs - 200 bucks.
upgraded rear axle studs - 200 bucks
longfields 30 spline super set - 1000 bucks.
stronger than GQ/GU - priceless.
yes, but they are narrower than cruiser axles where the stub shaft necks down... 60 series end up a stronger steer axle than patrol351ciofgrunt wrote:Haha 30 spline axles...GQ's run bigger axles than that in their front diffs.bad_religion_au wrote:why all this blabber about GQ diffs?
60 series diffs - 200 bucks.
upgraded rear axle studs - 200 bucks
longfields 30 spline super set - 1000 bucks.
stronger than GQ/GU - priceless.
You make me laugh