Sorry Ruff get back on track he asked about a compressor switch not a locker swith
I have got both air toogles and push and pull swithes for lockers but if the air is not there theirs no point having a air operated switch to turn on an air compressor
I use a toogle switch (no light ) to run my endless air compressor cause a air switch wont work
Madshort
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ARB Spares.
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Ruff, I had the same sealing problems with the compressor.
The compressor die casts are pox and don't seal real good against the O ring, the centre bolt always works itself loose. I got some slightly oversized butyl nitrile O rings through work (carry 4 spares) and they tend to seal a lot better.
BUT DAMN IF I CAN SEAL ALL THE FARKEN AIR LEAKS !!!!! I've used reems of teflon on all the threads even that Loctite thread string stuff and still it looses pressure slowly (with the locker off).
Stupid imperial size air lines and fittings don't help (made for the Yank market), we use a heap of Festo gear at work, I'll see about a system like Mike said.
Already blown 2 fuses, compressor switch fell off, numerous air leaks in the system and the compressor sounds dodgy at the best of times.
I agree the diff centre is A-1 but the rest is crap.
The compressor die casts are pox and don't seal real good against the O ring, the centre bolt always works itself loose. I got some slightly oversized butyl nitrile O rings through work (carry 4 spares) and they tend to seal a lot better.
BUT DAMN IF I CAN SEAL ALL THE FARKEN AIR LEAKS !!!!! I've used reems of teflon on all the threads even that Loctite thread string stuff and still it looses pressure slowly (with the locker off).
Stupid imperial size air lines and fittings don't help (made for the Yank market), we use a heap of Festo gear at work, I'll see about a system like Mike said.
Already blown 2 fuses, compressor switch fell off, numerous air leaks in the system and the compressor sounds dodgy at the best of times.
I agree the diff centre is A-1 but the rest is crap.
Bitsamissin wrote:Ruff, I had the same sealing problems with the compressor.
The compressor die casts are pox and don't seal real good against the O ring, the centre bolt always works itself loose. I got some slightly oversized butyl nitrile O rings through work (carry 4 spares) and they tend to seal a lot better.
BUT DAMN IF I CAN SEAL ALL THE FARKEN AIR LEAKS !!!!! I've used reems of teflon on all the threads even that Loctite thread string stuff and still it looses pressure slowly (with the locker off).
Stupid imperial size air lines and fittings don't help (made for the Yank market), we use a heap of Festo gear at work, I'll see about a system like Mike said.
Already blown 2 fuses, compressor switch fell off, numerous air leaks in the system and the compressor sounds dodgy at the best of times.
I agree the diff centre is A-1 but the rest is crap.
I am not sure what you mean by that, but the Loctite liquid thread sealers i have used are generally very good. Wurth also make some good thread sealing stuff too.
Cant keep an ARB compressor working and sealed?
I have one that is over 10 years old and the only part that I have replaced is the reed valve in the tank. (Corrosion)
Solenoids work perfect
Old style switches perfect
Fuse up graded to 30 amp.
No air leaks
All this is kept inside the cabin
Dont blame ARB every time something goes wrong blame the fitter or the person who should be doing maintainance
I have one that is over 10 years old and the only part that I have replaced is the reed valve in the tank. (Corrosion)
Solenoids work perfect
Old style switches perfect
Fuse up graded to 30 amp.
No air leaks
All this is kept inside the cabin
Dont blame ARB every time something goes wrong blame the fitter or the person who should be doing maintainance
Keep it simple
http://www.loctite.com.au/NEWS/news3.htm
Why should the fuse have to be upgraded ? It's supplied in a kit form from ARB and installed by their authorised dealers. Mines only 2 yrs old and I've done everything I can to keep it clean and sealed, mine is installed under the bonnet but may think about moving it inside the cabin. Your one of the very few good stories I've heard.
Why should the fuse have to be upgraded ? It's supplied in a kit form from ARB and installed by their authorised dealers. Mines only 2 yrs old and I've done everything I can to keep it clean and sealed, mine is installed under the bonnet but may think about moving it inside the cabin. Your one of the very few good stories I've heard.
Bitsamissin wrote:http://www.loctite.com.au/NEWS/news3.htm
Why should the fuse have to be upgraded ? It's supplied in a kit form from ARB and installed by their authorised dealers. Mines only 2 yrs old and I've done everything I can to keep it clean and sealed, mine is installed under the bonnet but may think about moving it inside the cabin. Your one of the very few good stories I've heard.
Most manufacturers fit the minimum amp fuse to make their appliance run. If something over heats and draws a little more power than normal the fuse will blow and save on warrantee claims etc.
Keep it simple
Most manufacturers fit the minimum amp fuse to make their appliance run. If something over heats and draws a little more power than normal the fuse will blow and save on warrantee claims etc.
So why on earth would you put a bigger fuse in if its gonna overheat and melt. You basically just said that you would rather the compressor melt and destroy itself so that the fuse doesn't blow so often and you will have no chance of getting anythig on warranty cause you voided it by putting the bigger fuse in. Gee wiz that musta taken alot of thought for thta good idea. Well done.
"If it ain't broken, smash it harder, then make it stronger!"
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