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Posted: Sat Jun 19, 2010 2:16 am
by 57oky
$1200!!! That is cheap! I got quoted $375 each! although, my rims are 16s so maybe thats why, do you have any issues with your tyres scrubbing on your idler arm at all? I had to adjust my steering lock stops out so my tyre dosnt scrub......... really like the look of them, for a cheap tyre, looks like they are worth it............

Posted: Sat Jun 19, 2010 7:06 am
by VHPirie
Not sure if they're rubbing on anything else yet. Had to cut out a bit of the front gaurds, just behind the wheels, also cut off some bits inside the gaurd at the back, and also heated the panel up and bashed it back a bit. Now we're all good. Wanna re-index the torsion bars tho to jack it up a bit more. Anyone know how to do that? Apparently ya undo them all the way, then undo the 2 bolts on the control arm, and the bar slides in further or sumfin, which bring it out at the back, and u turn it a few splines and chuck it back in and do everything up....that sound right? Can anyone explain it better so I know exactly wat to do lol?

Here's some 33x12.5x15 bighorns in QLD on ebay for $940!!. I only didn't get them coz they were in QLD, but u might be close to the seller. They've sold now but maybe ask if he has any others??

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll ... 667wt_1137

Update on the front bar.....ran out of mig wire, and also funds so can't get more mig wire at the moment.....dug out the ol' arc welder and started using that to go over everything. Only got a few beads done tho and it cut out, couldn't wait for it to kool down tho coz I had to go to work....so hopefully I can finish it 2night b4 I go to work, coz we're hittin the hills again 2morrow if all goes well, and it's been raining a bit too so will try out the new treads! :)

Posted: Sat Jun 19, 2010 12:29 pm
by Loud_Pedal
Re indexing is just a matter of unduing the adjuster nut all the way(dont forget to undue the 2 lock nuts on top of the adjuster bolt first) then slide the bars back out of the lower control arm then turning it a couple of slines (counterclockwise on the left side of the truck, and clockwise the right.) slideing them back in the do the adjuster bolt up untill you reach your desired height, due up the lock nuts and your done.

Just a tip spray PLENTY of Wd-40 or similar before you start.
It's also a lot eastier if youve got pneumatic tools (Rattle gun or a impact socket wrench) otherwise it can a very slow and painfull to undue the adjuster bolt ect...

It also helps if you cut the droop stops first, gives a better height adjustment and a smother ride.

Jonezy

Re: MJ Triton bodylift

Posted: Tue Jun 22, 2010 12:12 am
by VHPirie
Thx Jonezy, me and a mate done the torsion bars 2day......ended up taking the whole bump stops out.....might have to chop them up and put them back in tho coz every little bump hits them lol. Ended up turning the torsion bars about 8-10mm around. Had to get a jack under the end of the bar where the bolt goes, to lift it up enough to get the bolt through and the first nut on.

On Sunday we went up in the hills and the 33's scrubbed a few times....but hopefully now she'll be right with the torsion bars re-indexed and wound up. Will prolly go back up in the hills this weekend. It's great only living about 15-20 minutes away from where we normally go 4wding.....we've been every weekend for the last 6-7 weekends lol.

Re: MJ Triton bodylift

Posted: Tue Jun 22, 2010 11:37 pm
by VHPirie
Just realised now the passenger front wheel has a fair bit of camber. What would cause that? Is it the torsion bar on that side wound up to much?

Here's some pics I took 2day......can't really see the camber in the pics tho.

Image

Image

Re: MJ Triton bodylift

Posted: Wed Jun 23, 2010 6:21 am
by Jonezy01
Its normal for the camber to be thrown out when cranking torsion bars, you should ALWAYS get a wheel alinement when ever do work on front ends. Take it somewhere that is experienced in doing 4x4 alinments, you will probly find more shims are requiered to correct the camber.

Re: MJ Triton bodylift

Posted: Wed Jun 23, 2010 9:39 am
by VHPirie
Unfortunately we don't have many places here that do wheel alignments, prolly around 5 or so, and out of them none really 'specialise' in 4wd's. I'm getting a wheel alignment done on Friday, from the same place that I got my new treads from, as it was included with the price, but I told him I was gonna crank the bars up more so he said to bring it back once I've done it. I showed him the bad camber the other day when I booked it in for the wheel alignment, and he said he can't fix the camber, but can fix it wearing bad.

Might just see what it looks like afterwards, then if it's still bad I might ring around places in Adelaide and see if anyone there can do another alignment and sort it out.

What shims are needed?

Re: MJ Triton bodylift

Posted: Wed Jun 23, 2010 10:50 pm
by 57oky
love the look of this thing, whats next??

Re: MJ Triton bodylift

Posted: Thu Jun 24, 2010 12:37 pm
by VHPirie
Gotta finish the front bar, then wanna make some rock sliders. Got a few oil leaks to fix (the power steering leaks pretty bad), and gotta change the front diff and possibly the transfer, as sumfin makes a loud banging noise in 4wd, which is getting worse. A respray is on the cards soon, as the new passenger door is white. Also gonna chuck some spotties on the front....mostly little things really.

Re: MJ Triton bodylift

Posted: Fri Sep 03, 2010 1:02 am
by o-p
hi. im new 2 this but am i correct. looking at your pic of 6 nylon blocks with nuts/bolts. u payed $110? is that the whole kit?

Re: MJ Triton bodylift

Posted: Wed Sep 08, 2010 6:43 pm
by 57oky
yeh mate, thats the whole kit, I bought the same ... good quality