Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Wendle wrote:

bj on roids wrote:
i think 6 or 7 months ago the ruling came in on the plastic blocks, i had my plastic ones approved over a year and a half ago, and apparently if called for an inspection I will be requested to change them!

I think the lift blocks would be the least of your problems

my three inch exhaust? 10" suspension? or maybe there is more stuff that i am missing
i think you might be right!

found a complete set of shocks yet? how's the anti-tailgater steering oil slick going??

"plastic" vs steel depends on the mount type on the vehicle. On cars that have a big flat area for the block to bear against the uhdmwpe or poly is fine but other situations require steel (like Rovers).
I used 75mm and 100mm dia, 75mm high solid poly from cadillac plastics for a body lift on a 4wd f100 and used it offroad a lot for three years and had no major probs, have steel Rangie spares on the rover and its ok.
On the F100 when I was snatching people up sand dunes etc requiring a fair tug the body used to shift forward enough to knock the tcase into nuetral (about 1"), havent noticed this on the Rover.
As for rust, zinc plate the bolts and your steel lift blocks and your a lot better off and its cheap, only works if you are patient though ie more than a weekend job...
My vote would be tasteful chopping with no lift but sometimes theres no way around it (like if you want 35s on a full bodied rover and still want some compression travel.....)

my .02

Cheers
Daryl

My 2 cents worth:
Steel is the best option.
Aluminium next.

Regards
Michael.

You guys do realise that I have settled on the environmentally firendly option... wood. We have heaps of it here where I live and I can use my old man's lathe to turn it down to whatever dia I want. Great dampening properties and it won't rust. That old ironbark up the back is going to be one branch lighter before then end of the week. :wink:

JK that is a stroke of genius! While you're at it make some wooden sliders and a new rear bar too.

i can see a whole new product line of 4wd accessories


ghetto sliders - 2 saplings cable tied to your sills

That new 6" rear log is going to make coming down rocksteps a breeze.

Gotta work out how to coach screw the spare carrier to it though...

okay a little it of nonsense is okay

one more is too far and this thing will be caned :evil:

I used red polyurethane for my lift, the same stuff as they use to make boat rollers, come to think of it, thats what I used, polyurethane boat rollers, 8) 8) large diameter, come in many different lengths, and predrilled centre holes. Works fine for me.

Cheers
David

DirtPigs wrote:You guys do realise that I have settled on the environmentally firendly option... wood. We have heaps of it here where I live and I can use my old man's lathe to turn it down to whatever dia I want. Great dampening properties and it won't rust. That old ironbark up the back is going to be one branch lighter before then end of the week. :wink:

The ironbark will be no good unless you have it kiln dried, as it will distort badly as its moisture content reduces. It will however have a nice, rich, deep, red hue which will be a delightful contrast to a black chassis.