Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Boost guage came out of my brothers wrx and was working fine when removed so shouldnt be that.. preformance is average and it hasnt changed at all after adjusting boost controller, waste gate actuator, turning up fuel or anything else but the boost guage has stayed the same.

I'm running out of options.

Also the car won't start on the key either, have to roll start it everytime.
But its been like that since before the turbo went on.

*I just blocked the hole in the intake manifold and took it for a run. Got up too 7psi at about 3,300rpm. i want it too be hitting and staying on 10psi at close too 2,000rpm. the actuator isnt moving to release pressure so i dont no why its building so slow. KEEP IN MIND i have already turned up the fuel 1/4 turn, although it doesnt seem to be getting very hot.*

I need to find out weather or not my pyrometer is ready in farenheit or celsius, it was sitting on 62 (17deg celsius) so im guess its farenheit. If so it hasnt passed 400 yet so still really cold, but i am only doing small runs up and down my paddock.

I think 7psi around your paddock sounds about right. In order to reach maximum boost, your motor needs to come on full load and the fuel needs to be screwed up a little to suit. The reason is that at full load the injector pump will be flowing the maximum amount of fuel you have set it too. This fuel will add additionally 'mass' to the exhaust gasses which in turn deliver more "energy" to the turbine resulting in more boost being produced.

Aslong as the EGT's aren't climbing to high, I would suggest taking it for a decent run and checking the boost on a steep climb when the motor is under full load.

My ct20 reaches about 9psi at 2200rpm, with a flat foot, under full load. EGT's don't go past 450degC (post turbo) too often.

Ct20s aren't the most responsive turbos at the best of times

I just wound up the fuel another 1/4 turn and its running worse now.
seems like its giving it less fuel, i turned the screw IN (clockwise) this is right yeh?

Also it was struggling to go past 5pound, when before it was going to 8psi fair up it. Its now idleing higher aswell, just over 1000rpm

HELPP??

HTH wrote:I just wound up the fuel another 1/4 turn and its running worse now.
seems like its giving it less fuel, i turned the screw IN (clockwise) this is right yeh?

Also it was struggling to go past 5pound, when before it was going to 8psi fair up it. Its now idleing higher aswell, just over 1000rpm

HELPP??

idling higher means that you have increased the fuel. from memory my 2.8 was wound up so that idle was about 1500 rpm or more

then we just backed the idle screw back so it idles normal. I was running a intercooler though.

with a bleed valve i was running 11- 12 psi normally, and have had run it as 18psi .but put it back after 1 run.

now that you have blocked the intake manifold and that has obviuosly worked to some extent, i would be looking at your pump setup,

could be a fuel pump timing issue, sound suss that it wont key start as well

One of the many joys of having a ct20

idling higher means that you have increased the fuel. from memory my 2.8 was wound up so that idle was about 1500 rpm or more

then we just backed the idle screw back so it idles normal. I was running a intercooler though.

with a bleed valve i was running 11- 12 psi normally, and have had run it as 18psi .but put it back after 1 run.

now that you have blocked the intake manifold and that has obviuosly worked to some extent, i would be looking at your pump setup,

could be a fuel pump timing issue, sound suss that it wont key start as well

So next step is too take it into the shop? I think the rest is out of my hands..

THANKS HEAPS TOO EVERYONE FOR YOUR INPUT/ADVICE.

what are the specs of your turbo?

couldnt tell ya mate, im sure someone on here would no tho.

Shop wont all ways help mate i miss my ct20 but wouldnt swap it for the t25 garret

Shop wont all ways help mate i miss my ct20 but wouldnt swap it for the t25 garret

I dont want to have to take it to the shop but besides whinding up the fuel i dont no enough about my injector pump to set it up properly and its running worse the more i turn up the fuel. Also i have no idea why it wont start off the key.

I honestly dont no where to look next.

the hose from the rocker cover to the turbo
1 cut it
2 THE ROCKER COVER END RUN TO A CATCH CAN (*GIVES EPA A SEMI)
3 turbo end block off with a bolt and sillicone
4 start saving for a t25 or ($1000 for engine and turbo i have haha )

I'd guess that not starting off of the key is not related to the turbo issues, but you never know.

Is it doing anything when you turn the key, cranking the engine, just making a clicking noise, etc.?

HTH wrote:couldnt tell ya mate, im sure someone on here would no tho.

just wondering if ti has a o bugger exhaust wheel fitted

the hose from the rocker cover to the turbo
1 cut it
2 THE ROCKER COVER END RUN TO A CATCH CAN (*GIVES EPA A SEMI)
3 turbo end block off with a bolt and sillicone
4 start saving for a t25 or ($1000 for engine and turbo i have haha )

Ive cut the hose and blocked off the pressurised intake hole, just got the rocker cover open until i get a catch can. Theres a fair bit of air coming out of this hole, There is always a bit of blow thought right?

MY ct20 is brand new, i dont want to save for something else already haha.

I'd guess that not starting off of the key is not related to the turbo issues, but you never know.

Is it doing anything when you turn the key, cranking the engine, just making a clicking noise, etc.?

It definately shouldnt have anything to do with the turbo as it was doing it before i bolted it on. It is kicking over, a bit slow but even when i hook it up to another car it still wont start.

Also it wont idle for about 15seconds after role starting it (if i just role start it and put the clutch in it will stall again).

just wondering if ti has a o bugger exhaust wheel fitted

It should be standard, I've had a few ct20's and didnt see any difference, but im no wizard when it comes to turbo's..

Thanks for taking the time to reply guys.
Cheers, HTH

HTH wrote: MY ct20 is brand new, i dont want to save for something else already haha.

whats the turbo off (or vechils its meant for) ??
CT20 is used on several vehicles including petrols. theres a few variations. i don't know if the exhaust housing is different for the petrol ones.

whats the turbo off (or vechils its meant for) ??
CT20 is used on several vehicles including petrols. theres a few variations. i don't know if the exhaust housing is different for the petrol ones.

supposively for the 2.4 hilux surf (2L). I dont think its a turbo problem anymore, think its a fuel problem, dont like the fact that turning up the fuel made it run worse. Need to go see a deisel tech.

when your 'turning up the fuel' what way are you turning the screw? in or out?

are you turning the correct screw?

HTH wrote:

whats the turbo off (or vechils its meant for) ??
CT20 is used on several vehicles including petrols. theres a few variations. i don't know if the exhaust housing is different for the petrol ones.

supposively for the 2.4 hilux surf (2L). I dont think its a turbo problem anymore, think its a fuel problem, dont like the fact that turning up the fuel made it run worse. Need to go see a deisel tech.

the ct20 you have is the correct one, only depends on year and car make (eg cruiser or surf) whether the internal seal is dynamic or carbon, otherwise the internals are the same it is not the one from the petrol mr2 which is a totally different exhaust housing and simply would not fit in that position.

i think it is a fuel problem , i remember you said somewhere about the bloke had to advance the timing on your pump to get it started before??

i'd get the timing checked on your pump. sounds to me like the pump is advanced, therefore when you turn the fuel up it is not burning all the fuel at the correct time.

also is it blowing any smoke, if so what colour?

Z()LTAN wrote:when your 'turning up the fuel' what way are you turning the screw? in or out?

are you turning the correct screw?

this could be true too, you may have just wound the idle up? maybe

when your 'turning up the fuel' what way are you turning the screw? in or out?

are you turning the correct screw?

IN (clockwise), im 99% sure its the right screw. I'll take a pic and you guys can correct me if im wrong.

the ct20 you have is the correct one, only depends on year and car make (eg cruiser or surf) whether the internal seal is dynamic or carbon, otherwise the internals are the same it is not the one from the petrol mr2 which is a totally different exhaust housing and simply would not fit in that position.

i think it is a fuel problem , i remember you said somewhere about the bloke had to advance the timing on your pump to get it started before??

i'd get the timing checked on your pump. sounds to me like the pump is advanced, therefore when you turn the fuel up it is not burning all the fuel at the correct time.

also is it blowing any smoke, if so what colour?

I have set the pump back to normal (as far as i no it was retarded by slightly turning the pump, I just re-aligned the marks on the pump/block)

it is blowing a little bit of blackish, greyish smoke at idle, but definately doesnt increase when i put my foot down at low rpm like it should (unburnt fuel).

thanks again everyone, HTH

picture of my spare fuel pump, its the long one with the 12mm lock nut right in the middle.


this is the one the car. Crappy pic no room.


If someone can point out the idle that would quite helpful.


Cheers, HTH

wheres the boost comp connected to ?

wheres the boost comp connected to ?

Boost compensator?? I think the thing your thinking of is the A/C comp? Its not hooked up as my A/C isnt hooked up.

Not that i can even see it in those pic's.. I hope im wrong haha.

Cheers, HTH

looks like the right one then,

your idle is just the bolt that adjusts your throttle cable spring back and forth..


any more news on how its running?

cheers

I havent made any other adjustments to the pump yet as im worried why it ran worse after turning the fuel up the second 1/4 turn. I might give it another 1/4 turn and see if there are any changes soon if i've got time.

Also need to figure out why its not starting off the key. Couldnt be because of the new oversized injectors? Putting too much fuel in and flooding it or something? I dont no enough about engines to figure it out on my own.

Thanks, HTH

HTH wrote:

wheres the boost comp connected to ?

Boost compensator?? I think the thing your thinking of is the A/C comp? Its not hooked up as my A/C isnt hooked up.

Not that i can even see it in those pic's.. I hope im wrong haha.

Cheers, HTH

little hard to tell whats anything is in the pic.
whats the thing with the yellow paint on the screws ?

Something tells me waste gate.

I would double check it is closing properly. It is probably letting some boost out.

Take the wastegate actuator off. Make sure nothing is holding it open and if you need to... weld it shut.

As for leaks, I would look for them in the exhaust system between the head and turbo (soot will be easy enough to see)

Intake between the turbo and the head, look for pieces of gasket poking out a little bit, where they may have broken and are allowing some air out.

tweak'e wrote:

HTH wrote:

wheres the boost comp connected to ?

Boost compensator?? I think the thing your thinking of is the A/C comp? Its not hooked up as my A/C isnt hooked up.

Not that i can even see it in those pic's.. I hope im wrong haha.

Cheers, HTH

little hard to tell whats anything is in the pic.
whats the thing with the yellow paint on the screws ?

on newer pumps from 89-90 onwards they came standard with a altitude compensator. which does look quite similar to a boost compensator, but does the opposite.

The altitude compensator runs off vaccum and leans the fuel out depending on altitude. So at high altitude it doesnt blow smoke due to different air pressure.

too hard to tell what it actually is in that photo, and HTH's old pump doesn't have anything on top of it.


cheers

it almost looks like its got a 5L pump on the 3L motor ????