Outer Limits 4x4 Board

I picked up a rolling 80s chassis for $1200 if that helps. Definitely the way to go if you're going to be using the 80 suspension setup. I'd only really consider going diffs only if you're custom designing your links/mounts. But that's me.

Tojo wrote:you'd be better off getting hold of a complete rolling chassis and that way you can get all of the links, radius arms, coil mounts, steering etc. It will be a lot easier to install and a lot easier to engineer using all factory gear.

im in total agreement with tojo there it made the job easy ,no need to chase every piece down

Best to find a engineer first too, and tell him of your plans as well

Don't underestimate a good leaf set up as illustrated above many times.

SCANAS wrote:Don't underestimate a good leaf set up as illustrated above many times.

exactly. And it can be done very cheaply. You don't have to spend much money at all to get a good comfy ride and amazing flex.

can i ask to all the SPUA guys, how many times did you have to change the packs to get the right, or is there a rule of thumb to follow to get it pretty close for the first time, im realy chassing comfort but also i want some decent flex,

I would go with Ray and remove two springs. Or ask for a really soft spring when you order.

Superior sell dobinsons in a full kit for about $1800 they come in different rates.

loosecanon wrote:can i ask to all the SPUA guys, how many times did you have to change the packs to get the right, or is there a rule of thumb to follow to get it pretty close for the first time, im realy chassing comfort but also i want some decent flex,

It took me 2 goes at both ends to get it right..

first time in the rear was with 60 leaves minus the load leaf.. then I added a 75 leaf into the pack and its been like that since.

with the front I had 2 x 75 longest leaves, the rest 40 leaves, after having it settle I opted for 3 75 leaves and that has been the same since.

well i figure, i will copy one of the set ups to aviod having to do it multiple times, any of you guys flex but still capable of going on long trips with load and compfort?

it really depends on the shocks u fit on the comfort side of things as well

yea your right, i haven't realy thought much about this yet there's so many options, what the opinion, i was thinking foam cell, but from what iv'e heard that twin valve gas shocks are a better option,

wow what a thread, great info but does most of these leaf packs apply to a hj47 UTE aswell? Also when the front diff moves forward does anything need to be done on the steering side of things? and does the top shock mount need to be moved?

cheers

front springs on the 47 are the same as front springs on a 40. So anything about them applies. The rear springs on a 47 are really long already so the stuff written relating to the 40 series and what leaves to use from other models does not apply. A good setup for you would be:

front: front 75 series main and second leaf. Make the rest of the pack up with some of your 40 series leaves. The 75 series main and second leaf is longer than your 40 series ones so will move your front diff forward. You will get similar flex shown in some of the pics posted by various people. You will need a longer tailshaft or tailshaft spacer, longer shocks, longer brake line etc. If you have standard steering you might find on the drivers side the shock rubs the steering rod. You can space out the top mount to solve this. Or even better convert to 60 series power steering. There are threads on how to do that.

rear: stick with your leaves. Get rid of the load leaves and a few other leaves and add coils. ie. have both leaves and coils. You will find if you get the right coils they will fit right in over the bump stop mounts. If you get the right coils and right number of leaves you will have good flex, a great ride and decent load carrying ability. This used to be a very popular conversion years ago. I don't know what coils will be the best ones. I think the ones i used where range rover ones cut down in size to suite.

Another option is just get a generic lift kit and bolt that in.

some really good stuff in here, keep this going,

would the coils in the back of a 45 just be for the load?? and do you just norm cust the mounts off a wreck and weld them in??? or can you buy kits for this???

cal8544 had coil and leaf set up in his BJ73 although it was already fitted when he bought it so probably can't shed too much light on what was used. It does give you the best of both world's especially without swaybars. The leaves basically just locate the axle and the coils do most of the work. It would be more expensive than a good leaf set-up

There used to be an advertisement in the back of 4wd monthly every issue for a bloke that did the coil and leaf conversion when I was a subscriber a few years ago.

Who is running swaybars and who isn't?

If I fit extended bump stops to stop scrubbing do I limit down travel on the opposite side? I am guessing possibly yes.

we never used a kit or any brackets. If you get coils that are the right diameter they will fit perfectly over the bump stop mounts. They never fell out. If you are worried you could fab up some sort of retaining bracket.

SCANAS wrote: It would be more expensive than a good leaf set-up

the setups that i refer too cost very little money because we did it ourselves. And out performed any aftermarket leaf setup available at the time.

Tojo wrote:front springs on the 47 are the same as front springs on a 40. So anything about them applies. The rear springs on a 47 are really long already so the stuff written relating to the 40 series and what leaves to use from other models does not apply. A good setup for you would be:

front: front 75 series main and second leaf. Make the rest of the pack up with some of your 40 series leaves. The 75 series main and second leaf is longer than your 40 series ones so will move your front diff forward. You will get similar flex shown in some of the pics posted by various people. You will need a longer tailshaft or tailshaft spacer, longer shocks, longer brake line etc. If you have standard steering you might find on the drivers side the shock rubs the steering rod. You can space out the top mount to solve this. Or even better convert to 60 series power steering. There are threads on how to do that.

rear: stick with your leaves. Get rid of the load leaves and a few other leaves and add coils. ie. have both leaves and coils. You will find if you get the right coils they will fit right in over the bump stop mounts. If you get the right coils and right number of leaves you will have good flex, a great ride and decent load carrying ability. This used to be a very popular conversion years ago. I don't know what coils will be the best ones. I think the ones i used where range rover ones cut down in size to suite.

Another option is just get a generic lift kit and bolt that in.

I like your idea with the front but if your prepared to cut the body to clear tyres suggest 55 series rear springs for those with small pin and 60 series for those with big pins. the extra 100mm in length makes the car alot more stable going up steep hills and the improvement in ride is huge when combined with decent shocks. If i had a LWB i would run the longer 78/79 rears as well.

Dannyboy wrote: I like your idea with the front but if your prepared to cut the body to clear tyres suggest 55 series rear springs for those with small pin and 60 series for those with big pins. the extra 100mm in length makes the car alot more stable going up steep hills and the improvement in ride is huge when combined with decent shocks. If i had a LWB i would run the longer 78/79 rears as well.

Must add you have to cut off the rear hanger and flip it 180 degrees to get the correct shackle angle or run extended shackles.

i keep hearing about flipping the hangers, and im pretty sure i understand how this is done ect ect, but how legal is this??? does / has anyone had this engineered or RWC done? how hard was it?

i cant say how legal it is I just did mine but Tassie is fairly relaxed like that, you simply cut the rivets off swing it 180degrees and weld or bolt it back on.

Seeing as this thread has started a little on lwb with the 47 i'm about to tackle my suspension on my 45. The front seems ok its obviously had a few taken out but the rear is still chock full of springs and vertical shackle angle with extended shackles. I was going to take maybe 3 out and see how it goes. But just seen the 78/79 opinion. Never heard any suggestions on packs for on the rear for the lwb. 75 series has has a bigger shackle pin doesn't it? Ah insert suggestions here please

Guys,

I understand all concepts and appreciate everyone's input.

But...

Can someone post up a picture of the flipped hanger? I've looked up under my BJ42 '82 and it looks as well as moving the hanger toward the rear, it will also have raised it slightly (maybe an inch)?

Cheers

Dan

yea i want a photo too if we could, also i have chopped a bit off my chassis will this be problem?

cheers,

dancar wrote:Guys,

I understand all concepts and appreciate everyone's input.

But...

Can someone post up a picture of the flipped hanger? I've looked up under my BJ42 '82 and it looks as well as moving the hanger toward the rear, it will also have raised it slightly (maybe an inch)?

Cheers

Dan

Some pics from my flip:

hanger removed:


after it was flipped:

If you're using extended shackles, you don't need to flip your rear hanger with 60 leaves. You will actually get better drop as a result. I have left mine where they are, run 60 leaves, extended shackles, and it flexes great and rides well. You really need the extended shackles to get the most flex out of the springs anyway.

Ricko wrote:If you're using extended shackles, you don't need to flip your rear hanger with 60 leaves. You will actually get better drop as a result. I have left mine where they are, run 60 leaves, extended shackles, and it flexes great and rides well. You really need the extended shackles to get the most flex out of the springs anyway.

Very true Rick. The reason why I flipped mine was so I could run standard sized shackles with 60series rear springs if i needed too. I now run shackles that measure between extended and standard shackles.

shorty_f0rty wrote:

Ricko wrote:If you're using extended shackles, you don't need to flip your rear hanger with 60 leaves. You will actually get better drop as a result. I have left mine where they are, run 60 leaves, extended shackles, and it flexes great and rides well. You really need the extended shackles to get the most flex out of the springs anyway.

Very true Rick. The reason why I flipped mine was so I could run standard sized shackles with 60series rear springs if i needed too. I now run shackles that measure between extended and standard shackles.

Visually more legal for sure. If someone could tell the difference though, a rotated hanger needs to be plated to be 100% legal.

The other benefit of moving the hanger is it allows an even longer spring than a 60 pack. Look at Twisty's for example, the longer the better, but it does go into the custom spring territory. I'm going to try and fit 75 leaves in the back of mine... flipped with superior drop shackles.

Ok - thanks for the pics, I seem to have a modified rear hanger, must've been the previous owner.

My hangers have an anti-inversion plate welded on them.

So I get it right the first time-
Q: which springs are longer the 60's or 75's?

dancar wrote:Ok - thanks for the pics, I seem to have a modified rear hanger, must've been the previous owner.

My hangers have an anti-inversion plate welded on them.

So I get it right the first time-
Q: which springs are longer the 60's or 75's?

75 are longer in the rear, but need a heap of work to fit to a shorty. You would need to move the front hanger as well. Stick to 60 leaves in the rear if its for on road use. They are a good length and can flex well. 75 leaves for the front springs.

just to bring this thread back up,

ive had a chat to my stepfather, who is a 40 nut and my go to info source. i was speaking with him last night and told him i wanted to put a set of 60 series springs in the front of my 45 series, and just use extended shackles. to my surprise he was realy against the idea of extended shackles in the front, he says steerding will be sh*t and not to go down that road, or strongly frowned apon it.

he has to much experiance for me to just brush off the info, so anyone else want to give me their opinion? two inch shackles on 60series springs in the front of a 45series? good or bad idea?

If you dont correct the castor to suit the extended shackles, then yes, steering will be terrible. Get the castor where it should be and I doubt you would even notice the difference.

Mine wandered bad when I first got it, with only 3 degree wedges to correct the castor (not enough). When i did my 2nd set of custom springs the fixed spring mount moved down the chassis offsetting the effect of the shackles. Mine steers and tracks pefect now. Easily cruise down the highway with one hand on the steering wheel.