Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Is there any problem with the rigidity of the diff housing itself? Would big gusseting be necessary to do any sort of serious 4x4ing?

How do u drive?

I braced my housings fairly extensivly but still managed to bend them beyond repair. Snapped the front one almost clean in 2. New ones i built for a team mates car are very heavily braced and should hold up well. Lamination and gusseting is a nessessity if you want them to last.

Planning on driving like an idiot The sponsor wants as much publicity as possible so lots of noise and lots of broken i think. not entirel my style but you gotta give the man what he wants!!

what do you mean by laminating?

Baja Burley wrote:Planning on driving like an idiot The sponsor wants as much publicity as possible so lots of noise and lots of broken i think. not entirel my style but you gotta give the man what he wants!!

what do you mean by laminating?

Do I spy the new powerful 4X4 rig ?

stilivn wrote: Do I spy the new powerful 4X4 rig ?

Haha maybe! Probly not until this time next year. but look for us in local comps.

We are called Team Tool Shop. probly wont be on the local scene til after chrissy though.

Go a buds housing! You can do what you like then!

For example I'm putting rear steer in my truck, I'm currently running 80s diffs so I got buddy to make mr a housing to take the big cruiser center out of my rear diff, he made it a centered pumpkin to suit my transfercase and put 60 series knuckles on it so I can run my hi steer kit, but in doing this he made it the same width as an 80series as a normal 60 diff is about 4" narrower! Then Buddy gave me a measurement to use when ordering custom length longs!

And yes def brace if planning on being silly!


Bit more info for you we have been running 80series diffs with stock axles in the rear for 4 years and no breaks, and longs in the front no breaks, and using 40" stickys, 37"stickys, 42" ikoks

what gauge of steel will be enough for diff bracing? i was thinking maybe 65x65 box section with 3mm wall? One piece to go all the way from the pumpkin out to the knuckle top and bottom.

If i keep the brace piece level to the ground i wonder if i could use the flat for leaf spring mounts on the front?

macarthur 4x4 wrote:

Rhett wrote:there are plenty of other cost than just buying the mogs

AGREE there Rhett...
Disc brake conversion- ... if you want to do that... 1-2K depending on who you get them from
pinion conversion
custom tailshafts
Custom made rims...
Brake master cylinder upgrades...
Changing cable lockers to airshift
High steer...
Full hydro setup for steering....
the list goes one trust me.... but i love my mogs..hahaha

What is the pinion conversion about? Could you not just get a custom tailshaft adapted to fit pinion?

Oh, and someone start importing Dana stuff in bulk to make them cheaper down under

Baja Burley wrote:what gauge of steel will be enough for diff bracing? i was thinking maybe 65x65 box section with 3mm wall? One piece to go all the way from the pumpkin out to the knuckle top and bottom.

If i keep the brace piece level to the ground i wonder if i could use the flat for leaf spring mounts on the front?

You will loose 65mm of valuable clearance underneath the housing if you do this, which is alot if you run 37's. Perhaps some flat bar to 'fish plate' the bottom instead or just a triangulated bit from the pumpkin to the axle tube.

Alex talk to locktup about dana stuff. If ur quick enough your shipping may be relativly cheap

Z()LTAN wrote:Alex talk to locktup about dana stuff. If ur quick enough your shipping may be relativly cheap

Thanks for the heads up

alexcliffo wrote:

Baja Burley wrote:what gauge of steel will be enough for diff bracing? i was thinking maybe 65x65 box section with 3mm wall? One piece to go all the way from the pumpkin out to the knuckle top and bottom.

If i keep the brace piece level to the ground i wonder if i could use the flat for leaf spring mounts on the front?

You will loose 65mm of valuable clearance underneath the housing if you do this, which is alot if you run 37's. Perhaps some flat bar to 'fish plate' the bottom instead or just a triangulated bit from the pumpkin to the axle tube.

i mean cut the box section in half and put one on top and one on bottom. should only lose 20mm clearance max (the box will wrap around the diff)

Baja Burley wrote:

alexcliffo wrote:

Baja Burley wrote:what gauge of steel will be enough for diff bracing? i was thinking maybe 65x65 box section with 3mm wall? One piece to go all the way from the pumpkin out to the knuckle top and bottom.

If i keep the brace piece level to the ground i wonder if i could use the flat for leaf spring mounts on the front?

You will loose 65mm of valuable clearance underneath the housing if you do this, which is alot if you run 37's. Perhaps some flat bar to 'fish plate' the bottom instead or just a triangulated bit from the pumpkin to the axle tube.

i mean cut the box section in half and put one on top and one on bottom. should only lose 20mm clearance max (the box will wrap around the diff)

Ah, I get'ya now

Bit of a dig here guys, I havnt touched the truck since before christmas as my sponsor went belly up! SO as not to let the dream die i have decided to self fund the project (DOH!) Being only 19 it HAS to be budget.

TO clarify, the best option we come up with so far (excluding buds housing) is 60ser FRONT coupled with 80ser REAR correct? im not worried about different track widths as can be fixed later..

The truck is going into Modified/Challenge class events with provision for open class. This means tight tracks. So would I be better off going 60ser Front AND Rear and then adding spacers later if i need more stability?

Cheers
Luke

I'll let the pic do the talking ...



Yep, go the 60's gear.

Mr DJ wrote:I'll let the pic do the talking ...



Yep, go the 60's gear.

meh .. IFS what are you gunna do

Mr DJ wrote:I'll let the pic do the talking ...



Yep, go the 60's gear.

That's pretty excessive negative camber you run on ya drift truck...

Dune jumping?

That's the most movement any Patrol radius arm bushes will ever see too. Haha. I know they're not wristing. Just funny that the wife's Ford Fiesta flexes better than patrol front axles.

I've decided to Run the lux diffs as I have acquired many spares through parts cars.

Plan is to run 30 spline longs, hub gears and nitro gear set. Holden V8 pushing 37's.

Couple of questions:
1 after the longs go in, what is the next weakest link? And what after that? Just want to know if the nitro gear sets and hub gears are necessary.

2. How low can you go before starting to lose strength in the ring gear. I'm torn between 4.88's and 5.29 sets.

Without the hub gears, the longs won't be warranty covered as when the gear breaks it stufs the spline on the CV. Next weakest link is the sliding gear in the FWH, but is quick and easy to swap on a spare FWH hub on the track.
Depends how many times you want to buy the std C&P sets before you get the nitro's I guess.

I would suggest an air locked centre not just because you can lock it, but it gives a lot more support to the crown wheel to reduce flexing so the teeth will last longer.
Maybe a 60 rear centre might be a better idea if you plan on pushing the skinny pedal a lot.
You can break anything if you try hard enough tho ....

Go drive flanges off longfield and a selectable front locker

A selectable front locker just isn't in the budget I'm afraid. It will cop a lockright as I already have one.

I gotta say I'm a fan of the noise pedal so it needs to be strong. The rear diff will cop nitros as well if I place an order. But I'd say that order will come after the first crown wheel carnage.

There are listings for 7.5" AND 8" crownwheels. It's an LN65 which is 8" I thought?

Have a look for 2nd hand ones or even the Chinese copies. A mate has a Chinese one in his 80 no issues!

Your better off saving for a bit longer and buy right the first time. I've been where you are and that's the best advise I could give, that and research LOTS

hey bud i got 5.29 in my lux and spins up 35s nicely with a turbo 2.8. i sujest with 27s going with the 5.29s over the 4.88 as youll have RPM if it does any distance driving. with 35's i sit on 2950-3000 rpm at 100kph.

i got 30 longs and hub gears but have drive flanges in the lux for any chnace i break a FWH but havent broken anything in the front diff yet. but i love the loud pedal and use every bit of RPM my little diesel will give me lol

also got a ARB front and a SPARTAN rear and have snapped a rear axle befor a front even when i had stock cvs. also my 5.29 diffs are NITRO gears but didnt get a colid spacer got a crush tube.