Outer Limits 4x4 Board

I dont think there realy is a better option, as DC switching gear for that level of current would be far to expensive and bulky to fit. On my tourer i have 24v for the winch and i use an isolator so that the albright cant be accidentally switched, and have also mounted the albright horizontal so that there is no chance of a downward impact closing the switch, not sure if that can happen but its what i have done. Personaly i think some of the trouble people have with the contacts sticking is that they are useing 12v soliniods with 24v running through them, which for the most part is probably fine as it is only a set of contacts, but having 24v on the coil side of the soliniod is were the problem could occour. In saying that an isolator could not be switched under load, not sure, but it sure as hell wouldnt hurt to try if everything is turning to sh1t.

hammey wrote:And the better option is.......

I have only ever wanted a hydraulic winch, however an electric winch came up at the right price. Like yourself I was concerned about unprotected 12V winch cables, winch solenoid faults and trying to use equipment that actually has an appropriate 12V rating. About the only worthwhile solution I could come up with was to use another solenoid (titan/allbright) next to the 12V battery. The first solenoid acts as an 'isolator', with an incab on/off switch and also enables a short as possible 'unprotected' cable run. It feeds switched 12V to the winch control solenoid (titan/allbright) that is located next to the winch.

As Hammey has said, If there is a better option, I am all ears.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Battery-Isol ... 41672d42a8" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;


thats what i use on my winch, have not had a problem but i dont do alot of winching.

its purely there so i can switch the winch off when not in use, so if i have a big front end accident, my dual batteries dont dump 1500+ CCA into the steel bullbar!

If the isolator fails, it will fail open as the contacts will melt?. So then i just unbolt the cable from the isolator, and bolt it straight to the battery and im winching again.

Im not too worried about it failing closed, as its very unlikely to happen, and its also only ever on when I want to use the winch anyway.

Shadow wrote:http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Battery-Isol ... 41672d42a8


thats what i use on my winch, have not had a problem but i dont do alot of winching.

its purely there so i can switch the winch off when not in use, so if i have a big front end accident, my dual batteries dont dump 1500+ CCA into the steel bullbar!

If the isolator fails, it will fail open as the contacts will melt?. So then i just unbolt the cable from the isolator, and bolt it straight to the battery and im winching again.

Im not too worried about it failing closed, as its very unlikely to happen, and its also only ever on when I want to use the winch anyway.

I garuntee that thing will weld itseld closed (fail closed) after a few winches.

mickyd555 wrote:

Shadow wrote:http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Battery-Isol ... 41672d42a8


thats what i use on my winch, have not had a problem but i dont do alot of winching.

its purely there so i can switch the winch off when not in use, so if i have a big front end accident, my dual batteries dont dump 1500+ CCA into the steel bullbar!

If the isolator fails, it will fail open as the contacts will melt?. So then i just unbolt the cable from the isolator, and bolt it straight to the battery and im winching again.

Im not too worried about it failing closed, as its very unlikely to happen, and its also only ever on when I want to use the winch anyway.

I garuntee that thing will weld itseld closed (fail closed) after a few winches.

Its already done about 4 or 5 winches without a problem.

If it does fail, it will almost definalty weld shut, not melt open. The contacts themselves can carry alot of current, it's when that current is tried to be broken than it arcs, melts the 2 faces of the contact together and cannot be switched off.

gudge wrote:If it does fail, it will almost definalty weld shut, not melt open. The contacts themselves can carry alot of current, it's when that current is tried to be broken than it arcs, melts the 2 faces of the contact together and cannot be switched off.

i have never used it to switch while winching, i use it purely as an isolator(never switches a current)

So what sort of isolator do the comp guys use on there winch system ? I've herd a few people don't use them.