Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Micka wrote:A mortgage.

Close enough, i won't post it because it's vulgar

But Mick is right, the reason i went this way was because i saw american rigs routinely running 500+ HP through drivelines and giving them the hate without busting, or rarely busting. A transfer case is typically subjected to 18-25% of the torque that the axles are, and a gearbox sees half that or less again. Conversely, it's not hard for axles and crown and pinions to be subject to 50 or more times the torque that the engine puts out.

People ask me why i can justify spending what i have on axles, and i reply by asking how can they NOT justify it. Let's say your built Yotanissanmogalicious front end costs 3-4k in total (which is easy done by the time you look at bracing, custom fab, axles, lockers, crown and pinions etc.). If you run 38+ tyres i can guarantee you that you still need to apply some thought and caution and you can still bust it. Now in my case getting to a comp costs well over 500 bucks in fuel, 200-400 in entry, food, and a few other costs on the way. It's not hard to blow a grand JUST TO TURN UP. Now if you bust something, you've spent a grand to sit in the pits covered in oil, watching other people continue driving.

cheap insurance to me.

Ok, Here's a quick breakdown of ONE option

1. Nissan centre - strong out of the box, available anywhere, good for decent HP. If you bust one it's not a spendy fix but it will cost your time. Say $500
2. Assume no gearing changes so we'll skip the costs of a rebuild or gearsets, but i'd recommend it anyway
3. Ruffstuff housing from Chris Reid - About 800 landed (i'm not sure what Bubs will charge, but he's an option too)
4. ARB with machined side gears to take 35 spline Axles. $1300 for ARB, maybe another 500 for broaching or EDM'ing
5. 4130 chromolly 35 spline axles. About $1000. These are easily available and FAR better than having a custom 33 spline inner made up.
6. CTM Unis $600
7. Reid inner and outer knuckles or solid axle inner and outers. Both about the same cost - $1100
8. Knuckle hardware and kingpins - $400
9. Hubs in bolt pattern of your choice, brake calipers and mounts, rotors - $1500 from solidaxle
10. Drive slugs - $200
11. Hi-steer arms and hardware kit - $500

So see how it all adds up? And that is by no means top of the range. some of that stuff you could get a little cheaper, and you could look at a detroit for the nissan centre but that would mean custom axles.

OR

1. D60 junkyard axle from the states, say $500.
2. About $400 bucks for the D70 conversion and $500 bucks for a complete rebuild and gear change. You could delete the D70 if you wanted to.
3. Detroit locker - $500 for a grizzly locker.
5. 4130 chromolly 35 spline axles. About $1000.
6. CTM Unis $600
7. Reid OUTER knuckles or solid axle outers. Both about the same cost - $550
9. everything from the junkyard D60 bolts on to reids and solids, but i'd consider your bolt pattern and or at least doing the bearings.
10. Drive slugs - $200
11. Hi-steer arms and hardware kit - $500

So that's closer to about 5k, but you still need to ship. Using sea freight you would be looking at about 1k after taxes and freight.

Good stuff milo!

Differences not mentioned in option 1 and 2 are that in one you but the stuff and ship the stuff separately. Avoiding large frieght bills and government shit.

Option 2 you have too ship a complete axle that is second hand . So high shipping cost and government crap. And customs will charge you "clean" your second hand stuff becasue the idiot you paid in the USA didn't clean it properly, and that'll take a few days so there is a storage fee, then cause they've had it a fews days there's a admin/release fee. Then you realize it's all d60 and not what you paid for but cause its from a wrecker you can't do crap overseas.

Don't get me wrong yours is BY FAR the stronger option! But there's so many things to go wrong! In saying that even brand new can be an issue with the US.

what about 35's? will a braced/locked 80 series with longs take the punnishment?

440 BB wrote:what about 35's? will a braced/locked 80 series with longs take the punnishment?

Yep it will handle it, until it dosnt.

Everything breaks at some point dude, depends on 1000 different things

My brother in law runs (or ran) 35's on his 80 series. He's definately not shy of a bit of noise but neither would i say he's a dickhead driver. He's never blown the longfields on that front diff. But he HAS had trouble getting the drive flanges to hold up and he's done a R + P before too. R+P was done while giving it the shit up a loose scrabbly hill, front wheel off, come down full noise. Air locked, solid spacered as well and still managed to make it eat dick. Stock 1FZ-FE

He's just upgraded his drive stud set up which should hold up ok. Problem with that is the fuse is now his r+p

I think if your budget won't allow a full house D60 set up then by all means go a built GQ/80 hybrid or even just a good 80, as long as you're happy to carry spares and do some periodical spanner work.

Micka wrote: IMHO around half your total build cost should go to building the strongest diffs you can get for that money. Too many people want to spend big on engines and then break running gear. Like some winch challenge guys spending 10k in a blown LS motor only to break a $120 nissan cv over and over again.

Someone gets it.

Spend 10k on your axles and run a $500 engine and you'll have a lot of fun.

Spend 10k on an engine and run all those horses through some Japanese axles and you'll become a very well practiced mechanic

Wendle wrote:

Micka wrote: IMHO around half your total build cost should go to building the strongest diffs you can get for that money. Too many people want to spend big on engines and then break running gear. Like some winch challenge guys spending 10k in a blown LS motor only to break a $120 nissan cv over and over again.

Someone gets it.

Spend 10k on your axles and run a $500 engine and you'll have a lot of fun.

Spend 10k on an engine and run all those horses through some Japanese axles and you'll become a very well practiced mechanic

Come on, you guys know you don't turn your locker on UNTIL you get stuck!!

I thought it was 2wd until you get stuck



brooksy

brooksy wrote:I thought it was 2wd until you get stuck



brooksy

1wd .. cos your still unlocked ...

Soild, Ried Racing, Longfield...... Hell yea

WICKED wrote:

Soild, Ried Racing, Longfield...... Hell yea

Oooow, shiney stuff!

What's that going in?

My MQ

Custom BudCustoms Dana69/GQ hybrid

WICKED wrote:Custom BudCustoms Dana69/GQ hybrid

Spending all that money on a front diff and still leaf sprung?

Those 'Leaf springs' have more flex than a radius arm 3link anyday.


Go the Danas! Heres mine

Big_GQ wrote:

WICKED wrote:Custom BudCustoms Dana69/GQ hybrid

Spending all that money on a front diff and still leaf sprung?

What's wrong with leafs?

Z()LTAN wrote:Those 'Leaf springs' have more flex than a radius arm 3link anyday.


Go the Danas! Heres mine

Hope that's going in the 60 in the back ground! Lol

WICKED wrote:

Big_GQ wrote:

WICKED wrote:Custom BudCustoms Dana69/GQ hybrid

Spending all that money on a front diff and still leaf sprung?

What's wrong with leafs?

Nothing at all but I just would of thought after going this far with the diff a custom suspension package would of been fabricated at the same time.

Big_GQ wrote:

WICKED wrote:

Big_GQ wrote:

WICKED wrote:Custom BudCustoms Dana69/GQ hybrid

Spending all that money on a front diff and still leaf sprung?

What's wrong with leafs?

Nothing at all but I just would of thought after going this far with the diff a custom suspension package would of been fabricated at the same time.

I'm happy with the way my front end works.
For the effort I coils I'd rather coil overs and if I was gonna do that I'd want double ended ram with full hydro and heims.
As you can see the cost adds very quick. And I'm happy with my leafs

WICKED wrote:
I'm happy with the way my front end works.

This. People can argue alla day long about what works and what doesn't, but i guess you got to do what the bank allows and if the man is happy with how it works and is accustomed to the way the thing drives then leave it. (no pun intended)

rockcrawler31 wrote:

WICKED wrote:
I'm happy with the way my front end works.

This. People can argue alla day long about what works and what doesn't, but i guess you got to do what the bank allows and if the man is happy with how it works and is accustomed to the way the thing drives then leave it. (no pun intended)

That's it. I opteded for new different treads to coilovers

Pretty sure some one is building longfield cvs to suit nissan gq gu and then running hub adapter.has any one heard any more seems like a cheaper opion to me rather than spending big money hybrid diifs.

Big_GQ wrote:Pretty sure some one is building longfield cvs to suit nissan gq gu and then running hub adapter.has any one heard any more seems like a cheaper opion to me rather than spending big money hybrid diifs.

These have been done before. Many options. Buds housing with a gq centre and 60 or 80 balls. Graft Toyota balls on a gq gu housings. Both require the side gear in the air locker to be changed.
Another option is custom axles. I'm sure Toyota Cvs fit inside Nissan balls but needing a shimm on the stub axle to space the cv back into the ball. This is the option your talking about and Mick Garner has been making them for some time. Craig George runs them in his Rear steer GU diff in his Range Rover.

I looked at all the options.

I broke both longfields In my buggy (1360kg on 40"treats)

I'm glad I went to Dana's.

Big_GQ wrote:Pretty sure some one is building longfield cvs to suit nissan gq gu and then running hub adapter.has any one heard any more seems like a cheaper opion to me rather than spending big money hybrid diifs.

Dragtec is doing this set up using the 80 series longfields with custom axles and drive flanges. i'm not sure about price but will be a decent upgrade for someone not having the coin to swpend on a hybrid diff.

Garner has only just started doing them, I have the 2nd or 3rd set.. 80 longfield cv fits inside gu knuckle, test fitted today, standard gu cv spacer is the right size shim. Down side is custom axles, patrol inners and 80 outers. Yet to test them tho.. Reasonable outlay.

ezzman wrote:

Big_GQ wrote:Pretty sure some one is building longfield cvs to suit nissan gq gu and then running hub adapter.has any one heard any more seems like a cheaper opion to me rather than spending big money hybrid diifs.

Dragtec is doing this set up using the 80 series longfields with custom axles and drive flanges. i'm not sure about price but will be a decent upgrade for someone not having the coin to swpend on a hybrid diff.

Criddy is selling Garners Anthony.

I can upload pics of the garner set up tomorrow

joshy wrote:I can upload pics of the garner set up tomorrow

What drive flange do you use?
Heard a 1##s soild axle flange is the same bolt pattern as a GU.

WICKED wrote:

ezzman wrote:

Big_GQ wrote:Pretty sure some one is building longfield cvs to suit nissan gq gu and then running hub adapter.has any one heard any more seems like a cheaper opion to me rather than spending big money hybrid diifs.

Dragtec is doing this set up using the 80 series longfields with custom axles and drive flanges. i'm not sure about price but will be a decent upgrade for someone not having the coin to swpend on a hybrid diff.

Criddy is selling Garners Anthony.

yes i know who makes them, and i know who is selling them. that is why i posted it.