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Posted: Sat Feb 22, 2003 8:24 pm
by Bush65
Short side axles are not as durable as long side axles because they have less capacity to absorb impact/shock loads.

The energy from impact/shock loads can be absorbed as strain energy in the axle. The increased torque is proportional to the sqare root of the spring rate of the axle. So reducing the spring rate will reduce the torque increase.

Put another way, the torque increase is proportional to the diameter squared and the square root of the reciprocal of the length.

So the short side axle can be made stronger by reducing it's diameter for the majority of it's length and using a high yield strength material so that the static strength is not affected. Hy-tuf is a good material choice for this purpose as the yield strength when hardened and tempered is about 1300 MPa compared to about 900 Mpa for 4340.

Posted: Sun Feb 23, 2003 2:33 pm
by Pal
Bush 65 wrote :
Extending the spline as shown and eliminating the groove should reduce the stress concentration considerably.

Good idea, and to stop the birf sliding in towards the seal a small weld (martac) can be added at the correct spot.

Posted: Mon Feb 24, 2003 8:36 am
by Bush65
Pal wrote:Good idea, and to stop the birf sliding in towards the seal a small weld (martac) can be added at the correct spot.


I don't have a problem with a martac if done properly, much simpler than sleeve. They are recommended at the diff end in some cases when longfields are fitted, so many would have used them and I haven't heard of any problems.

Posted: Mon Feb 24, 2003 9:01 am
by bj on roids
Yes ruff, like the landrovers have, either way or a weld tack on the axle, All im trying to say is thats what I wanted to do,

looks like we are all aiming for the same thing, a stronger short side front toyota axle..

which i think is possible, bush65 that 100 front axle looks very similar to what allpro do with the cro-mo ones, the splines finish in much the same way!

Posted: Tue Feb 25, 2003 11:35 am
by 2car
bj on roids wrote:
2car wrote:
bj on roids wrote:see where it necks down between the seal riser and the 27 spline section, at the back of that set of splines, there is a c-clip groove, just cut the splines to finish there, and start necking up straight away to the riser!


The groove for the small C clip? I have martacks on mine and don't need that one.


i have a cross pin and dont need it anyways, but thats a different area not at the start of the splines, OUTSIDE the birf, sitting against the cage clearly visible at all times, that is the c-clip im talking about!


Rodger that.