Outer Limits 4x4 Board

CRUZAAMAD wrote:milo what about all the other trailer designs youve thrown on the forum..
you started these ?

what can i say....My desire to design and create outweighs the amount of time i have and space in the garage.

The bike trailer got the kybosh after i stacked the bike and i've decided to keep using the normal boxy once it's back together.

I'll build a decent sized boxy after i've finished the buggy, and the chev

M

So i ended up going with a "normal" mounting set up on my sliders/steps. If anyone else has a IFS 100 series then this might be of help.

First i made the stirrups. 6x75mm flat barstock, and since i don't have access to a decent HD press i decided to cut and weld the components. There's only enough room for two stirrups on my chassis as the fore and aft mounting points don't really lend itself to using stirrups all the way along. At the front most and rearmost mounts i've tied into the body mounts.

After i cut the barstock i first ran a root pass, then a cover pass with the TIG. All welding on this project has been done with TIG, it's definately my favourite welding process now!


Root pass


Cap pass.


Internal fillet



Stirrups finished, and the plates for the body mounts cut and ready for drilling/tacking



Stirrups are fastened with 2 x M10 8.8 bolts each and the body mounts will be fastened with M10 SHCS.



Trial fitting of the body mounts and drilling to suit

After drilling out the chassis body mounts to take the slider mounts and they're tacked up, i removed them for bench welding.





All welded out

The main rail of the sliders is 1.75x.120" CDW sleeved with 1.5"x.120". The rest is good old NB pipe since this isn't a cage or anything structural and it's half the price of CDW. The reason i used the seamless for the main rails is because they sizings sleeve a lot tighter for a much closer fit.



I've decided to use these as an air tank. I know some folks will jump up and down about this but too bad. My last sliders on the red comp truck got beat on day after day, and while beat to hell they've never looked like puncturing and being weakened to the point that they wouldn't hold air. These will never see the abuse of those sliders so i'm confident. I have however TIG welded it to ensure a good non-porous weld, and pressure tested it overnight. I welded a bung on the sliders and pressurised them to 250psi and left it over night to check for leak down. There are 1/4" holes under all the connecting tubes so that air can pass between them.

Gratuitous welding shots

So tomorrow will be the spars between the mount plates/stirrups, the tread plate infills and the brush bars.

Instead of dabbing your filler wire you can leave it in place and just feed it in. I find this gives a more consistant weld. Either way you need a little bit more fill as your getting a little bit of undercut. Top effort on the slidders and welding all the same.

Thanks feral. I only picked up the torch for the first time in early Feb, but since then i've probably burned through half a dozen bottles of gas at least. Thanks for the tip!

Wow thats a lot of gas what rate are you using I use 10-12 liters a minute at home with no wind.
Tig welding is tricky, takes a while to master but so worth it when you get it right.

AFeral wrote:Wow thats a lot of gas what rate are you using I use 10-12 liters a minute at home with no wind.
Tig welding is tricky, takes a while to master but so worth it when you get it right.

I have been running 8-10lpm untill lately at which point i've been able to run 6lpm in a closed shed with no issues. It's mainly because of the tube frame chassis i've been building. I've spent bulk time in the shed behind the mask and it's not hard to burn through a bottle in two days when you're running non stop.

You can help me do my exo now Milo. Its not like you have anything else going on

rockcrawler31 wrote:

AFeral wrote:Wow thats a lot of gas what rate are you using I use 10-12 liters a minute at home with no wind.
Tig welding is tricky, takes a while to master but so worth it when you get it right.

I have been running 8-10lpm untill lately at which point i've been able to run 6lpm in a closed shed with no issues. It's mainly because of the tube frame chassis i've been building. I've spent bulk time in the shed behind the mask and it's not hard to burn through a bottle in two days when you're running non stop.

i hope its a small bottle, because id find it hard to go through a full g in two days, tig wise.
youd have a leak id say somewhere, or the o ring in the torch is crapped itself, if screw on tig setup

and youll be yawning with alot of argon around. if only in small space.
happened to me, and my boss when he was on the tools.

Dudelux i'm not worried about finding the time to do your exo because i'm confident it'll be another decade before you're ready and at that stage.

Well i thought i better finish off the build of these sliders.

They're fitted and tested, and all that's left for me to do is get some alloy tread plate once funds allow for the top.

The sliders are your basic tube and rocker design with the mid bars at a 60 degree rake. About 5 degrees of upslope from the sill to the outside of the rocker tube. Weld on tabs with captive nuts have been added in readiness for the alloy plate later on.





Front mount goes to the footwell body mount



And the stirrup mounts along the chassis.

For mine I also ran some gussets up to the top of the Stirrup to help stop it flexing and bashing the sill. Good to see you left plenty of room below the door line incase you hit something hard and bend them up.

i had some tube gussets already notched and ready but i ran out of both welding gas and care factor

rockcrawler31 wrote: Dudelux i'm not worried about finding the time to do your exo because i'm confident it'll be another decade before you're ready and at that stage.

Thats made my day. Bastard

Sigworthy huh?

Quick and easy way to check if you are leaking gas is turn the bottle on then turn it off. Watch the gauges if the pressure drop whilst everything is off then you have a leak. Use soapy water to find the source. personally I would not go any lower than 10lpm.