Outer Limits 4x4 Board

2car, that's a meaty lookin clutch, is that the extreme?

My old man had a EH holden wagon, took the gearbox out and rebuilt it on the side of a gravel road once, it broke down, he pulled it out and fixed it, took him 2 hours.

Dad was a bit of a bushy mechanic.

ando wrote:2car, that's a meaty lookin clutch, is that the extreme?

No, I don't think so. I just ordered a standard 2F Daikin clutch kit. The Safari Tuff and Extreme must be another step up from what I have

The best info I have found on this gear is at http://www.daikin-clutch.com.au

On that site they list the Safari Tuff as a TYD006UTF. My disk is a TYD006U. I was quoted about $500 for a 'heavy duty' Daikin 2F and $260 for a 'standard' Daikin 2F (Repco).

I've had two attempts at changing my rear main seal in my 22R. Both were unsuccessful. The first time it took 3 days of a long weekend but there was a lot of wasted time and the second time was 2 days but I had to cut it short on the first day as I had to get a speedy sleve for my crankshaft. Each time we had 3 blokes lifting the gearbox and me aligning it. In the hilux, the gearbox has to be rotated as it moves toward the engine so that the bulge in the bellhousing for the starter can clear the floor pan. For that reason, the jacking method would be difficult by yourself. I also used the "eye it up" method with only on failed attempt.

As for the rear main - I don't know why it won't seal. Maybe it's crankshaft bearings? Maybe it's the way that I installed it?

My method was to drill two selfdrilling screws into the body of the seal and grab them with pliers to remove the seal. I then smeared the crank with some locktite non hardening gasket stuff and placed a speedy sleeve over it (as the crank was scored). Then I greased up the lip of the seal, spread the same gasket stuff on the block and pushed the seal in. Reasembled everything and within a few weeks, it was back. Is this method incorrect? Should I be removing the sump and that semi-circular plate style thing around the rear main?

Don't know but would love to get this problem fixed.

if you sleeve a seal surface, you must ensure that the original surface is completely free of any sticking-out bits, or they will deform the sleeve, causing it to leak. Stag jointing paste or any of the hi-temp silicone sealants between the sleeve and the shaft can only help. there should be no need to remove the seal retainer plate/sump. it must go on perfectly straight.

also you have to be very careful installing the seal itself, if it is even slightly damaged, it is much more likely to leak.

the most common cause of leaking rear main seals is overfilling the sump, and/or extended steep uphill driving.

also if you're running a thin, synthetic oil (eg mobil 1 5W-50) in an older engine, this might cause or exascerbate leaks.

might all be obvious to you, hope it is of some help.

cheers Brian

It could be due to irregularaties in the seal as I wasn't extra careful upon installation of the seal.

The seal wasn't damaged, although more difficult to install with the extra thickness of the seal.

Wasn't driving up steep hills at the time of the changover.

I've used the thickest oil that I could find to try and lessen the leak. I've even used the super cheap home brand oil leak stopper which is like thick syrup in a 50/50 mix with the normal oil and it still leaks.

I could be overfilling the sump as the previous owner of the vehicle has cut and rejoined the dipstick as well as cutting the solid pipe that the dipstick feeds into. Will this cause the seal to fail or will it just leak while the level is too high. As it is never too high. Usually by the time I check it, I have to put in between 1-2L of oil.

When I park my car now it drops enough oil to cover about a 100mm diameter circle as well as distributing it from front to back on the underside of the vehicle.

Maybe I should pull it out again. One thing is for sure - I know it will take me more than 1hr