Outer Limits 4x4 Board

6.5 rangie wrote:How do you measure castor without going to a front end joint, i want to slot my swivel housings on my toy conversion before it goes in.

A method is given at the bottom of this page http://www.ep90.com/index.php?id=60

Hello John,
the clevis and the rubber bush sounds as well as practical and cheaper than the j-joint.
(mumble mumble)

As to principle/transverse load to radial...erm..tell more?

Bush65 wrote: If however you use a clevis to go in the chassis mount and the j-joint in the fork of the clevis and build new radius arms (for the j-joint), then that could work well. This is similar to what I am doing on my rangie with 3'rds production arms. But I'm using a rubber bush instead of a j-joint.

Michele wrote:Hello John,
the clevis and the rubber bush sounds as well as practical and cheaper than the j-joint.
(mumble mumble)

As to principle/transverse load to radial...erm..tell more?

Bush65 wrote: If however you use a clevis to go in the chassis mount and the j-joint in the fork of the clevis and build new radius arms (for the j-joint), then that could work well. This is similar to what I am doing on my rangie with 3'rds production arms. But I'm using a rubber bush instead of a j-joint.

In plane geometry, a radial line is a straight line drawn from the centre of a circle to a point on the circle.

With a j-joint, a radial load has a direction along a radial line.

A transverse load has a direction along the line of the pin or bolt through the inner part of the joint.

If you mate a defender radius arm to a j-joint, it will produce transverse loads on the joint. The bearings cups are assembled/diss-assembled in the transverse direction, IMHO the dynamic nature of the loads will have a tendency to make the j-joint to come apart and that would not be good.

If a j-joint was fitted into a disco 2 style, radius arm the loading would be radial. But you would need a clevis to adapt it to the chassis mount.

This is a pic of my 3rds clevis joint. The steel bushes take the place of the rubber chassis bushes. The clevis pin is free to rotate in a UHMWP bush and the radius is free to articulate in the clevis.

to make the j-joint to come apart and that would not be good
Yup,I guess so!

Thanks for the tech hints.

As to your clevis joint,"neat" to say at least!
Really nice made.
DIY?

P.S.
Why blue?

Michele wrote:to make the j-joint to come apart and that would not be good
Yup,I guess so!

Thanks for the tech hints.

As to your clevis joint,"neat" to say at least!
Really nice made.
DIY?

P.S.
Why blue?

The clevis is a stock item for nissans from 3rd's Productions. Just needs some simple mods to fit rangie.

That blue is the colour that 3rds use for their products.

So are you going to fab your own arms or convert the Rover ones?

Checked the website,but I couldn't find the clevis as single part...

Anyway is a clever idea.

Michele wrote:So are you going to fab your own arms or convert the Rover ones?

Checked the website,but I couldn't find the clevis as single part...

Anyway is a clever idea.

I'm using 3rd's Nissan arms, with a hybrid front axle/diff (Nissan high pinion 3rd member with airlocker, 105 series knuckles, hubs & brakes, 80 series Longfields).

The Rover arms would not clear the track rod without bending, which I could have done, but I thought this was a better option.

The main dissadvantage of Nissan arms is, the large centre distance between the front bushes, which affects articulation. I will have a quick disconnect pin for the front left bush for off-road, which will make a lot of difference.

It has also lead to some other suspension mods (keeping to myself until complete) that I would not pursue with the Rover arms.