Outer Limits 4x4 Board

screwy and ozy kiss and make up

btw jeff your wrong
hehehhe

Overkill did infact read my email 20 mins after sending it( receipt sent ), so not too busy to read but too busy to make a sale? . They musnt like money much !. i wont complain though cause if they go broke from lack of sales itll be there fault anyway.


I didn't read your email it was my wife and she didn't pass the message on for that I appoligise But as i only get emails at home and not at work makes it hard as by the time i get home i want to relax with my 4 kids not do more work. You could do what most people do a ring the workshop.

And the option of putting GQ diffs under it would be the best option as you can get the diffs as a pair for $1100-1200
SAM

Sam

$1100-$1200 is fine for the diffs but most of the argument is cost and time. How much would you charge to do the job and how long would it take. If you give this oppion as a professional it could settle it. Even though it has been fun, even if it was my message that started it when i mentioned GQ diffs.

Mark Costello wrote:Sam

$1100-$1200 is fine for the diffs but most of the argument is cost and time. How much would you charge to do the job and how long would it take. If you give this oppion as a professional it could settle it. Even though it has been fun, even if it was my message that started it when i mentioned GQ diffs.

buddy, dont blame your self about starting it, i started it a few weeks back talking to Jeff, he just hates having people come up with better ideas.

Okay to spring over it with GQ diffs will cost $4500 including the diffs

To do it with coils 4 link rear and radius arm front including diffs $5500

To do it with coils 4 link rear and 5 link front including diffs $6500

Time frame
1 week for spoa
2 weeks 4&5 link

SAM

and to make it a fair comparo

they spoke of coiled MQ gear

whats that worth?
assuming 4link rear etc

i'm not in the arguement , just think it has to b fair......by shop prices , not by doing one version thru the shop and the other in backyard

hotrod4x4 wrote:and to make it a fair comparo

they spoke of coiled MQ gear

whats that worth?
assuming 4link rear etc

i'm not in the arguement , just think it has to b fair......by shop prices , not by doing one version thru the shop and the other in backyard

Okay fair enough.
Spoa using MQ diffs won't do unless use different front diff.
Coil rear using 4 link $2000
Coil all round using 4 link rear 5 link front. $5500 includes high steer.
SAM

Sam, when doing SPOA using MQ diffs, you said you wont use the MQ front,

do you use the early GQ teaybak diff as its the same width but with a H233 centre, all steel housing? or do you use something else?

ozy1 wrote:Sam, when doing SPOA using MQ diffs, you said you wont use the MQ front,

do you use the early GQ teaybak diff as its the same width but with a H233 centre, all steel housing? or do you use something else?

yes or a 60 series
SAM

OVERKILL ENGINEERING wrote:

ozy1 wrote:Sam, when doing SPOA using MQ diffs, you said you wont use the MQ front,

do you use the early GQ teaybak diff as its the same width but with a H233 centre, all steel housing? or do you use something else?

yes or a 60 series
SAM

Do 60 series diffs come out with the same ratios as MQ rear???

and y is it that u dont use the front diff?
they are too weak or you have problems with the drivers side spring mounting????


OK to settle this little arguement between Myself and Ozy......

For myself to do the GQ diff conversion the $$$ would be through the room as i need a new pair of lockers and ive already spent $$$ on suspension adn trackbars etc anyways.
My MQ diffs are locked and setup with steering as well.
id have to re do it for coils.....

For shawn its a much better option as he has not spent any money on his suspension yet and has GQ lockers.

Id be up for an extra $5000 more than him.

OZYs GQ diff idea is a better way to go in his situation.
My MQ diff idea is a better way to go in my situation.

screwy

Thanks Overkill. I owe you an apology. Just a break down in communication and added stress for you.I figure emails are easier for businesses because they can answer them at a time convenient rather than some person holding you up when you are busy.Thats why i dont ring.

Most of my answeres have been answered here and im sure the rest of the guys here will use the information as well. The prices you quoted for the front , i am gratefull for. my mq is 394,000 kays old and i beleive the entire front end is up for replacement/repair. I have even bent the tie rod(is that what they call the rod in front of the diff). Now with the prices you have gave us, I can go and check what it would be worth to redo the front end including a high steer conversion versus getting you to do all the fun work .

The only thing that remains is the legalities. Is your work able to be easlily engineerable or will it always be illeagal. I know with a soa it has to be certified, but does a high steer have to be?

Does the 60 series crusier diffs,etc have the same/similar diff centre offset? I will be using standard moter (sd33) and box

Cheers,

GQ diffs sound good but I don't know how anyone could live with the very short, offset shaft in a SWB for very long.

You may laugh at this but if you get over the whole Nissan thing, probably 80 series or 78 series rear diff would be a smarter choice.

Team up with a Hilux owner.... an 80 front and GQ rear is the best choice- you guys are looking for the opposite.

Prolly a few guys looking for that combo right now.

Just a note. mine is not a swb. mine is actully a utillity model . does this make it a mid wheel base ? i think/hope its not the same as a shorty. do you think it would be long enough to handle those tailshaft angles associated with a diff change? was also considering an extra transfer case as i aim to fit 35's under it
Cheers, [/img]

Na, an MQ ute is heaps longer (wheelbase) than an MQ shorty, i'd say its the same length as the wagon off the top of my head - probably same chassis.
A week ago some bloke said my ute was a short wheelbase doesn't look real long as it sits high and has a pretty short tray, but when its parked next to my shorty it looks about a metre longer, just deceptive.

Wheel base of a LWB and the ute are pretty much the same,

Patroler wrote:Na, an MQ ute is heaps longer (wheelbase) than an MQ shorty, i'd say its the same length as the wagon off the top of my head - probably same chassis.
A week ago some bloke said my ute was a short wheelbase doesn't look real long as it sits high and has a pretty short tray, but when its parked next to my shorty it looks about a metre longer, just deceptive.

Dont spose u can do me a favour and measure the wheel base from hub to hub for me can ya Patroler??

screwy

ill do it

SWB hub to hub - 2350mm
LWB hub to hub - 2970mm
UTE hub to hub - 2970mm

its in the manual.......

ozy1 wrote:ill do it

SWB hub to hub - 2350mm
LWB hub to hub - 2970mm
UTE hub to hub - 2970mm

its in the manual.......

thanks mate

ozy1 wrote:ill do it

SWB hub to hub - 2350mm
LWB hub to hub - 2970mm
UTE hub to hub - 2970mm

its in the manual.......

MK and MQ short wheelbase trucks must be different. i know one of them (not sure which) is 2500mm...

Wendle wrote:

ozy1 wrote:ill do it

SWB hub to hub - 2350mm
LWB hub to hub - 2970mm
UTE hub to hub - 2970mm

its in the manual.......

MK and MQ short wheelbase trucks must be different. i know one of them (not sure which) is 2500mm...

the 2500mm wheel base your thinking of, came out in the G60, i believe its the MWB of the range

Screwy_ScrewBall wrote:

OVERKILL ENGINEERING wrote:

ozy1 wrote:Sam, when doing SPOA using MQ diffs, you said you wont use the MQ front,

do you use the early GQ teaybak diff as its the same width but with a H233 centre, all steel housing? or do you use something else?

yes or a 60 series
SAM

Do 60 series diffs come out with the same ratios as MQ rear???

and y is it that u dont use the front diff?
they are too weak or you have problems with the drivers side spring mounting????


OK to settle this little arguement between Myself and Ozy......

For myself to do the GQ diff conversion the $$$ would be through the room as i need a new pair of lockers and ive already spent $$$ on suspension adn trackbars etc anyways.
My MQ diffs are locked and setup with steering as well.
id have to re do it for coils.....

For shawn its a much better option as he has not spent any money on his suspension yet and has GQ lockers.

Id be up for an extra $5000 more than him.

OZYs GQ diff idea is a better way to go in his situation.
My MQ diff idea is a better way to go in my situation.

screwy

Okay we don't use the front mq housing as it is cast and is a pain to weld to the 60 has the same ratio.
In the 2 cases above i would agree with you in relation to cost.


SAM

As for the entire short shaft and compound angle issue .. There is no issue. The shaft does not care what plane it rotates in the shaft angles are only affexted by the amount of lift you have or if the offset is radical and pushing the angular limits of the joint (this is a binding issue not a vibe issue) So long as the angles are equal at each end you should not get issues with vibration



G = gearbox
/
/ driveshaft one
/
D = diff



G
\
\ driveshaft two
\
D

love_mud wrote:As for the entire short shaft and compound angle issue .. There is no issue. The shaft does not care what plane it rotates in the shaft angles are only affexted by the amount of lift you have or if the offset is radical and pushing the angular limits of the joint (this is a binding issue not a vibe issue) So long as the angles are equal at each end you should not get issues with vibration



G = gearbox
/
/ driveshaft one
/
D = diff



G
\
\ driveshaft two
\
D

Yes, the flanges must be within 1 degree of each other. So seeing as the t/case flange is almost vertical then the input flange on rear diff must be the same..... on a lifted rig this makes for pretty severe uni joint angles. The MQ diffs would be superior in this regard, since the diff can be rotated easily to reduce this when the rig is lifted.