Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Screwy_ScrewBall wrote:What i didnt know is that SOMEONE UNLOCKED MY HUBS WITHOUT MY KNOWLEDGE JUST BEFORE THIS BOG
So i was in 2 wheeldrive.screwy

Even tho I stood directly infront of you and using the handheld UHF told you that .....

YA FRONT WHEELS ARENT SPINNING

and this I told you SEVERAL times, but back n forth you went before admitting defeat........ next time ...
LISTEN TO THE NAVIGATOR !

The interesting thing is that I drove through it with my front hubs UNLOCKED ( Ross has the video evidence of my run through it) and I might add also I did it without the luxuary of a locked rear diff unlike yourself .
The video shows me locking in my hubs to recover Watto after he became traped.

As for me getting stuck ..... oh HELL YEAH !!! wouldnt be fun if I didnt !

example .....



Notice the rear wheel carrier missing .... yep I drive it hard enough to break things.... if I didnt get stuck and break something then Id be on a tame track driving Miss Daisy...... talking of expensive damage, that indicator has arrived that you owe me for


Back on topic....

any auto worth his salt should be able to wire in a puter in around 2 hours....any more n that and they are taking ya wallet for a ride.
A 308 from a VN-VS would be well worth the trouble fitting, luxuary of duel fuel power ta burn and decent ecconomy.

As for a 5 spd ....start watching the "forsale" section religiously or rining wreckers.....they are out there !

Kingy

p/s
I really like this pic ....

While you've still got the old oil burner in, why don't you give that CEM stuff a try. Heard enough good reports about it.

As for the conversion, I reckon that you can't go past old-skool V8's. Provided they are all sealed up, you wont have any dramas from mud/water, whereas an injected/computer operated motor could pose all sorts of dramas. At least a carby V8 can be fixed out in the bush, is easy to work on, and no expensive ECU scanners are needed.

Just my two-bobs worth.

Cheers - Coxy

I wont ever go injected. cost is too high and related problems in water etc are endless. i like LPG. Straight gas is good on rigs who dont need long distnace travel.
duel fuel has its merits too

go injected 304 and put duel fuel LPG on it.

screwy

Okay so i got one fella that says he likes carby and the other saying injected. Hmmmm sure is a difficult descion so what do i choose. Obviously i would save a packet if i went for the carby but on the other hand i know the extra power of an injected would be great.

AND do you guys put in the gas system yourselves or do you get someone to do it?? I dont know wether its difficult to do BUT the cost of a conversion over here is around the 2G mark.

I would love straight gas but then i guess with one tank you wouldnt be able to get too far.

Wish there were people over here that i knew that have done these conversions!!!!

Marc

Shark wrote:Wish there were people over here that i knew that have done these conversions!!!!

Marc

ROAD TRIP



Basics:
a motor the same age or older than the vechile its going into HAS to run sole LPG for emmision law reasons., these will include V8 holden red motors and many chevs. The age of these motors can be determined by the stampings on the blocks.....check out the bible for links.

a motor younger than the vechile its to go into has less emmisions therefore reducing pollution and hence the duel fuel option. These motors include the injected range from the VN-VS series and obviously later GEN3 etc donks.

Grey areas are around the Holden blue & black motors as these had canisters and other "off engine" emmision controls. The problem is that these pollution preventers often dont get placed at all or are fitted incorrectly in a conversion, thus making them illegal emmision wise. The other problem is that many of the pollution preventers have since failed to work anymore in their vehicle of origin let alone in the new vehicle into which they are being transposed to.

This is why I suggested a motor from the VN-VS series or later right up to the current range of chevs we fine in our commodores today.

ALL electrics suffer water damage .....even old points systems are highly prone to a drop of water in the wrong spot. A couple of w/ends ago we had a stock L28 die of water in the wrong spot.
A mates blue motor dizzy with the "module" on the side of the dizzy died unexpedly...and that was with out water being involved !

A puter correctly fitted and sealed up will be better than either of the two other types of ignition systems, give a better fuel ecconomy, and be more reliable in the long term.

Kingy

As kingy said,

Basically if u want a Carbi 308 ( red, blue, black motor ),, u pretty much have to put it on straight LPG to eliminate the problems with emmision laws.
You may get away with a black motor carbi holden ( vl,vk comm ) but its pushing it unless u have all nesesery gear on it.

If its on straight gas its an instant "OK".

I run 2 tanks in my ( used be be carbi 308 ) but its now straight gas with a modified custom setup on the inlet manifold for gas.
I get around about 450 - 500 kms off both tanks of they are full.
That is quite far. DEPENDING ON HOW MUCH I THROTTLE IT.

You can easily fit 1 tank under the back where ur petrol tank is, and another along the drive shaft with a LWB such as urs.
You could also put one in the back if u want.

With regards to fitting the system up yourself....
With a carbi type setup its farely straight forward, i fitted up my first gas setup myself and had never done if before and i think i only needed to ask a couple of questions. You just have to be very careful u dont get leaks.

With an injected motor fitting LPG to it is much more difficult and straight gas is not really the idea in most workshops. The run Duel Fuel.
With an injected motor u will pass emmision regs, but u will probably have to pay to get lpg put on it cause its a touch more technical for someone who hasnt done it before.....
The cost is much higher both ways for injected... and u only get duel fuel so ull only ger 250 kms out of LPG then ur sucking the petrol...
But u get more power injected.

its a compromise.

screwy

there is one other option .......


LPG injection ..... not cheap compared to the carby intake setup but
THE POWER IS AWSOME ! .... better economy, and a big increase in ponies compared to a straight petrol motor.

best of both worlds


Realisticly tho it will come down to a $$$$$ value and what YOU can afford to do.
I cant see the sense in spending $6000 on a chevy vorteck to drop it in a rig thats at its best is less worth than the donk ! ....simply doesnt add up, nor will it increase the value of the rig by enough to warrant such a conversion unless its for a long term plan of keeping it.

A Gen3 wont be much cheaper,so again it falls into the above catagory

a VN-VS series can be had for under $2000 some with the puter some may want a bit extra for the puter.....

A 350chev with an 010 block and electronic dizzy + hitorque starter thats
been rebuilt and has a 3 month warranty can be yours for under $2500.... pm me for details on where from !

a 308 blue motor that needs a rebuild sells at most wreckers for around the grand mark, then ya have an additional cost of the rebuild ... so add a further grand as a maximum to allow for a COMPLETE rebuild ....less obviously if you just re-ring it.

A red motor should be around the $500 mark from a wrecker.....
it WILL NEED A REBUILD !

alternativly start searching the trading post. OL forsale section etc etc for a motor.

I went chev after the holden V8s died.... I got a great deal and havent looked back since other than at the bowser !!! The thing pulls like a freight train and is as strong as. I was quite happy with the 308 I had untill number 7 decided it didnt want to play the game any more ...such is life! Both the 308 and the chev are carby motors and both had lpg as a duelfuel setup but the chev loves the fuel a lot more than the 308 did.

If I was to do a V8 conversion today I wouldnt look at anything else other than a VN-VS V8 for a dollar for dollar value.......anything else is just extravagance and bling bling factor....... unless ofcourse some-one gave me an intoxocating motor to play with


so ......














how fast can you afford

Kingy

Glazed bores are not a problem.. There is nothing wrong with the motor cause of glazed bores.

Happens regularly to trucks and most diesels used to just run around the cty. Most RFS/CFA trucks etc have it happen all the time.

Good run on the open road, using high gears to labour the engine on hills a bit, and generally a good open road run.. EG

If your just lookin for an excuse to change the engine for something bigger, then just do it.. Glazed bores can be fixed in a 3 hour run up the hume hwy.

Love the pics Kingy

But just wondering with the Domestic that you and Screwy keep havin, and the pic of u 2 hitched together, just wondering if this is a pic of things to come for u 2. LOL

Mere.

MereMale wrote:Love the pics Kingy

But just wondering with the Domestic that you and Screwy keep havin, and the pic of u 2 hitched together, just wondering if this is a pic of things to come for u 2. LOL

Mere.

yeah he's a typical woman .........














cant be told and wont LISTEN !

V8Patrol wrote:

MereMale wrote:Love the pics Kingy

But just wondering with the Domestic that you and Screwy keep havin, and the pic of u 2 hitched together, just wondering if this is a pic of things to come for u 2. LOL

Mere.

yeah he's a typical woman .........








cant be told and wont LISTEN !

I listen!
when there is something to gain out of it ofcourse

i like trying things myself and more often than not wind up getting in sh1t

The hub situation i didnt listen to ya cause i KNEW I LOCKED EM IN AT THE BEGINNING OF TRACK and got through all of it with little problems so when i got out to have a look at the hole i didnt expect the hubs to be unlocked.
In the radio u said, Ur front wheels arnt spinning!!! I thought i had done a CV cause of the front locker on and earlier back and fill exercise.
its better than i got stuck, cause the locker and front diff setup is expensive

we may be hintched up on the track sometimes. but its all ways him getting in truoble and me, the one that dont listen, having to pull him out cause i got lockers

My car weighs 2200kgs and runs a 383 chev with straight gas i get about 700ks to the 2 tanks - 180 litres, that works out pretty cheap to run, probably cheaper than my sd33 shorty.
So i guess you need to weigh up how far you really need it to go between fuel stations, but i'd still say it'd be cheaper to run than an injected vn-vs and would go harder too.
And that 700ks was running 35 inch tyres driving around omeo, hotham, bright, corryong - mountain roads, and it only has a four speed box - no overdrive 3000 rpm at 100ks.
And the shorty has a 5 speed and 31 inch tyres.

So if it were me, i'd decide wether i was happy with the sd33's power, if yea, keep it, try and get it running better or rebuild it.
If no think chev or injected vn-vs engine - probably comes down to what's available and what you like?

personally, straight LPG on 308 or 350 ish is good.
in a LWB u will easily fit 2 tanks so there is ur 700ks

is that enough for ya sharky? with a 308 u will get better, and with 31s even better

Obviously cost is always the major factor with time coming in second. After reading and re-reading all the posts i must admit that a carby 308 on straight gas with a couple of tanks would sound like the go for me.

So if that sounds okay i guess the start would be getting the motor and going from there.

One question though these economy stats are great but how hard do you guys drive ur cars. I know im a big leadfoot thats all.

And im not sure what the cops need over here to approve it all. I tried once to speak to someone and they didnt have the time to speak to me at all. Too many grey areas, i just want some simple answers.

31's Screwy are you kidding, stuff that. I would be happy with 33's, minimum!!

MArc

One question though these economy stats are great but how hard do you guys drive ur cars. I know im a big leadfoot thats all.

Obviously hard enough - i'm just about to put in the 3rd gearbox/tcase

The economy i mentioned wasn't (obviously) taken during a flat out run, was mainly "normal" driving at upto 110ks with the occasional squirt of the secondaries.

On being a leadfoot - once had a bluebird with L20 T04 turbo 23psi boost, broke in the region of 8 diffs, 2 clutches 6 head gaskets - ended up using a copper gasket, eventually the body let go, pushed the lower trailing arms from the diff through the floorpan under the rear footwell... so yea some people would say i'm a leadfoot. and don't even mention bikes

Geez, If my carbi is on the secondarys are open

i get 300kms out of the primary ( with led foot )
350kms lighter on it....

and 200kms off the secondary on a free way ( havnt measured around town ), dont use the second tank much.

the primary is 110 L ( water capasity )
and the secondary is 66 L ( water capasity )

the fill qiute a large amount less than this however....

the most its ever cost me to fill up was $55 and that was bone empty on both tanks.....

to get 500 - 550kms from the pair isnt too bad economy.

If u are going for straight gas u may as well get a red motor 308. You should be able to pick one up from a wreckers for around the $400 to $500 mark.
Then re-ring it will cost u about $500 in parts and wat ever the rebuild costs... I had a mate with no clue do the first one and it cost me a motor, and another mate the second one. ( he did a good job )
and ive rebiult the one after that which is still on a stand in the shed.. I havnt started it yet

add a few hundred more if u need pistons as well but u may not need them at all, u will probably need a cam, they are around $200 ish.... from somewhere like CrowCams.

then the conversion would be up to u.

screwy