Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Sheldon said that he wanted a junction box to clean up the wiring. I looked at Painless Wirings box and it didn't have very many terminals. I decided to make my own.

Installed...I have even added more wires to it since installing it.

Back to working on the inside and running brakes.

Moved stock proportion/ safety valve. The old mount was too close to the extractor.

jeeez kent you get enough stuff inside of that cab?! ok would you mind explaining what each bit does exactly?

I got my tax return and am having Rock Ware do me a rear bumper. My rear door was starting to sag and I didn't want the hinge pins to wear out. They replaced the rear tow loop with a weld on 3/4" clevis shackle mount. It is set upr for a 35-36" tyre. I also got two of them welded on the front bumper since the stock tow hooks are gone.

SimplyPV wrote:jeeez kent you get enough stuff inside of that cab?! ok would you mind explaining what each bit does exactly?

Well...the lock loops on the shifters are so that I can put the transmission in reverse, the front transfer case in low and put a pad lock on it. To slow the thieves down.

The in cab proportioning valve is so that I can adjust the bias between the front and rear wheels. If I can't make a hill climb I can bias the brakes to the front...less chance of a roll over.

The turning brakes will lock a rear left or right tyre so that your turning radius is greatly reduced. If you are in a tight spot and you want to turn right just lock the right rear tyre and turn right. It will pivot on that tyre. I am not sure how it will work with a Detroit TruTrac or not. I would like to eventually have Toyota electric lockers or ARB's

I know that eight levers is a lot but they are all for a good purpose. It was easier to route my brakes through the cab and out the back using stainless steel braided lines than for me to bend and flare hard lines.

Oh yea...sorry for all of the pictures.

OMG Toyhatsu, Will you marry me and have my babies?! Your an absolute champion. Thats the coolest shiznit I've ever seen. There should be more of it and is definatly food for thought when the old 1.6 dies. Keep up the good work, it'll be worth it in the end!

Dangerous Dave wrote:OMG Toyhatsu, Will you marry me and have my babies?! Your an absolute champion. Thats the coolest shiznit I've ever seen. There should be more of it and is definatly food for thought when the old 1.6 dies. Keep up the good work, it'll be worth it in the end!

It really wouldn't work out Dave. I am sorry but I am not genetically set up for that sort of thing

I got the brake lines run to the turning brakes and out to the rear drums tonight. I have the next two days off from work so I will put in about 18-20 hours at the garage. I should soon have brakes and a hydraulic clutch...and carpet and seats.

I have a lot of little things to do but almost time for rego...I think that is the right term.

All of the brake lines are in and all of the fittings tight. The braided stainless steel brake lines were cheap from Speedway Motors. A four foot line was only about $14.95. 12" lines are $9.95. They are AN fittings and I bought adapters from AN to 10mmx1.0 Japan...and AN to NPT thread adapters. The clutch is done except the pedal. Got the radiator over flow on (stainless steel thingy next to the radiator). Knocked out the plug for the T100 dipstick tube and got it mounted. Added an engine check light above the proportioning valve and some other stuff...am tired.

If you need some of those lines let me know. Mike and I have been shipping stuff back and forth for years...It avoids customs and import duties being sent as a gift on the declaration form.

I just made a great deal on four new 35x12.59x15 ProComp XTereains tonight on another board. After I sell my 33's they are only going to cost me $250.00 for the four. There goes some vacation pay

I'm not giving you sh*t at all but why have you fitted turning brakes?? Aren't turning brakes fitted to tractors?

Dangerous Dave wrote:I'm not giving you sh*t at all but why have you fitted turning brakes?? Aren't turning brakes fitted to tractors?

I am not familiar with tractors but if you say so. They are great for tight spots on the trail and decrease the turning radius a lot...kind of like driving a tank.

The rear bumper is done and painted. I think that if I could get my tyre guy out of the bars I would get the new 35's but I am not too concerned about them.

I went to bleed the brakes and they were hemorrahaging all over. I got the leaks taken care of and have pretty good brakes without the discs in the rear.

I did drive it on Friday. I still don't have a functioning clutch. I put it in Low Low 2WD 3rd gear to start it in gear. I was doing 3000rpms and 5mph around the building.

I am getting very close now

That's one wide track vehicle you've got there Kent!!!

You don't have to worry about any engineering legalities in the USA, do you?

I picked these beauties up on Ebay for $50.00 each. They are burgandy LEATHER, full recline, head rest and sliders. Should look good. My seats weren't too bad but the former owner had made cigarette burns all over the seat.

murcod wrote:That's one wide track vehicle you've got there Kent!!!

You don't have to worry about any engineering legalities in the USA, do you?

Well in Colorado they aren't very strict about tyres sticking out, beadlocks, lift etc. As long as it will pass the emissions test I can get stickers for my license plates.

Dave,

If you need any of the piccies that were lost let me know...i.e. body lift etc.

This guy did drive over to the garage from somewhere and he does have a license plate on the back.

Hi!

Is it possible to use Hi-jack with your rear bumper?

Thx.

Borisovich wrote:Hi!

Is it possible to use Hi-jack with your rear bumper?

Thx.

Yes, I can use a HiLift on the front, rear bumpers and the rock sliders under the doors.

trolleyboy wrote:wat happened to the zuk on page 1

I haven't seen Sheldon for a while. I think that he had his first competition over Easter. He will bring his notebook computer over to run diagnostics on my engine when I get the second O2 sensor in. He is also supposed to wire up the engine check light and the tach.

Some slight problems encountered. I couldn't get the front transfer case to shift into Hi. The guy that I bought the crawler from had it behind a G52 transmission. I had a G52 that needed rebuilt. After doing research I found that a W56 transmission has four main bearings and the other only two. I used the G52 for a core and got the stronger tranny at the Yota Yard.

The shift rails on the transfer case for the W56 are shorter by 1/2-3/4". I ordered a new rail and fork from Marlin, dropped out the crawler and installed the new one. Works great now but it set me back about a week.

I spent quite a lot of time tracking down another O2 sensor bung. The 2.7L uses an in front of and behind the cat sensors. I had the one in the front from the extractor. Toyota uses a flange type sensor and not the round weld on bung.

Well...I made one and got it welded in so now the computer will allow the engine to go out of closed loop mode. I have invested $260.00 in O2 sensors. More progress.

I drove the truck around the building for a test drive. It cut out during hard acceleration and I was dissapointed thinking what now. Probably that little Daihatsu fuel pump. More research.

While wiring up the computer and getting the engine running I ran down the red top till dead. I put a charger on it but couldn't get more than 9.2v out of it. I found that the injectors and fuel pump require 12v to operate. I put in another new red top and mother puss bucket the thing is a rocket

I came around the building again and stuck my foot in it. Actually squealed the 33's and slid sideways Didn't dump the clutch but was idling around the corner in first.

This is the first time that I have been excited about this swap in a long time.

Had to cut, dog leg and reweld the front xfer case shifter as it would now go under the dash.

Since it was running I decided to take it up the 30* ramp to check some things. I put it in double low 2WD and idled up...great sensation. The left front tyre stuffed in to the flair and the tire jammed into the slider. The right front extended brake line was streached to the max. I hadn't lifted a rea tyre yet.

More ramp stuff. I have to cut the brackets for the front brake lines. Where they go from hard to soft lines. I think that there is enough zig zag hard line to pull down and reweld. I will have to cut the slider and weld the cap back on and trim the flairs back.

More piccies

Have to make room for 35's and that will hopefully be the last big expense.

The Jeep had to put it in four wheel drive to get past me. He has invested $50,000.00 so I don't feel too bad

I found out that I have 12" instead of 10" Fox Air Shox. I don't have the rear shocks installed and I didn't notice much of any body roll sliding around the corner. Seems to work pretty good not having any springs up front.

I guess that is about it for now...except for my new Ebay stickers.

Kent, you probably dont want to hear this, but the Applause O2 sensor I bought had that type of flange on it. I had to unscrew the sensor from it to fit it into my Feroza. It's made by NTK (NGK) and cost me around AUS$70.

Sounds like all the hard work is starting to pay off. That fuel pump probably won't flow enough- try and get a fuel pressure guage hooked up and check the pressure doesn't drop off at high revs. Other wise it could lean out.

Looks impressive- bring on the off road photos!

Truly inspiring Kent!








Keep burning those $$$.