Outer Limits 4x4 Board

yes. have been thinking about that !
one thought is to have a removable centre section of the link and then modify the swaybar axle bkt to incorporate a locking bolt. this will stop the bar from flapping around.
another idea was a 'pin and sleeve' arangement, with a locking pin through the side. once the locking pin is removed the 'pin & sleeve' can travel inside each other. dont think i would be able to incorporate enough vertical travel, to match the amount the axle will move ?
my final thought (for the moment) was again a removable middle section, then fitting a spring in the middle to stop bar from hanging loose. again though i dont think enough travel can be built in to it.
will look at the first option more closely, when its time to replace the shocks. will probably look at longer adjustable rancho's.

cookie monster

I have also fitted gq springs to the back of my 88 nf Pajero. Mine were from a swb patrol. They were only about 20mm longer when compared to the standard paj springs. However, because of the lager dia. wire they have given 2.5 inches of lift on the passenger side and 3.0 in. on the drivers side. This has levelled it out, previous owner must've been a fat bastard. They went in easily enough and have stiffened up the ride noticably. This is good because I was getting sick of cleaning up my daughters spew whenever we drove long distances. Now I just have to bring the front up to level her out. The truck, not my little girl. Along with the lift came the enevitable need for larger boots, some 32" a/t's. I know this has knocked my speedo out but am unsure of how much. What is the formula to work this out? Are replacement gears available for the speedo output on the transfer case?

Hi Cookie
I measure the gap between the the top and bottom rubber bushes and then I press a piece of 50x3mm flat of that length into a die with my press and fold it into a U shape. Then drill a hole in it for a R clip and fit it to the link instead of the piece of tube. When going off road remove the clip and the U and no anti sway but it is still held up by the bolt.
Some don't have a tube and instead have a shoulder on the bolt, so you replace the bolt with a parrallel one of the right length.
I do this to both sides to get twice the free travel.
J Top

J Top wrote:Hi Cookie
I measure the gap between the the top and bottom rubber bushes and then I press a piece of 50x3mm flat of that length into a die with my press and fold it into a U shape..........
J Top

hi j top,
sounds like a novel solution to the problem.
have you found that the bolts get chewed out a bit, with the bar moving up and down them. did notice some strange angles on the links when playing last week ?

cookie

No it doesn't seem to be a problem, anyway, what is another bolt every 2 or 3 years.
J Top

I am a bit curious about this as it does not seem to have been revisited in some time.

Could you do something like this for the rear end ?

I have worked with this style of disconnect before but the sway bar bushes require tension and it is quite hard to get the pin in with tension on the bushes.

So if you made the top of it threaded you might get away with it ?

yes but the thread would be chafing on bushes, washers and s.bar when disconnected

This is how I did it :




Works really well and if you play with the tension on the nut, you can set them to to be pulled out easily and replaced easily (as long as its on level ground).

cookie monster

thats kind of what i was thinking ...

So I have 4 new ball joint's, a box of good quality grade 8 bolts, a set og GQ coils, 4 runner shocks on order.
I will be lifting my lil old NL a bit, sick of dragging its bum on the ground all the time.