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Cage design
pic's from our trials when the cage was complete with door bars, dash bar supporting the steering colloum, and with a couple of gussets added.
Mock
Mock
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My photographic Art http://www.redbubble.com/people/ljxtreem
www.dirtcomp.com.au
Sierrajim wrote:
So hurry up, come back, buy a Lada (can't believe i just said that) and we'll go wheelin'.
www.dirtcomp.com.au
Sierrajim wrote:
So hurry up, come back, buy a Lada (can't believe i just said that) and we'll go wheelin'.
1. I have seen and it’s recommended that you plate the area that you are going to weld to, to spread the load. Makes sense really.
2. I’m using a 40mm hole saw but it is going to be a mission when on an angle. A notcher would be best. Grind it by eye maybe?
2. I’m using a 40mm hole saw but it is going to be a mission when on an angle. A notcher would be best. Grind it by eye maybe?
[quote="STD CONSUMER"]haha, i'm tellin you, my camp was hard to find on Saturday night!
then i shared my bed with 2 second tom... [/quote]
then i shared my bed with 2 second tom... [/quote]
OldGold wrote:You guys are way handy, I'm impressed!
It's not hard to be handy with a grinder!!! HAHA
And Shane is a heavy duty mechanic........so he know a fair bit about cars etc
[quote="STD CONSUMER"]haha, i'm tellin you, my camp was hard to find on Saturday night!
then i shared my bed with 2 second tom... [/quote]
then i shared my bed with 2 second tom... [/quote]
what i'm serious, the bends are all correct i just need to maek it narrower and shorter the hoop at the front will be mounted on the chassis probly and the back bars with be mounted to the rear corners
Last edited by spamwell on Sat Feb 19, 2005 7:11 pm, edited 1 time in total.
I don't mean to harp on it but it is important (possibly life saving). No matter how good your father is at welding the structure won't be strong. The weld might just be the strongest part of the hoop.
Again, I aint bagging you, I'm just thinking of your safety. I've been in a barrel roll in a Zuk and roll bars are the most important thing you can fit.
It would have cost me about $100 to get my main hoop bent in Moly. As you feel your car reach the balance point, you'd be appreciating the investment....
Again, I aint bagging you, I'm just thinking of your safety. I've been in a barrel roll in a Zuk and roll bars are the most important thing you can fit.
It would have cost me about $100 to get my main hoop bent in Moly. As you feel your car reach the balance point, you'd be appreciating the investment....
Gone drag racing......
i ride a heap of BMX, flatland in particular, and CrMo (often called chromo) is used for most of the good brands... quite often though when it breaks, it goes on a weld... ive never seen anyone snap a frame, bars, cranks etc on a straight piece of pipe... however the stuff IS prone to cracking. So once rolled - get it xrayed for cracks!!!
That said, im basing that on 4130 CrMo, which is made of 0.28- to 0.33% carbon, 0.4- to 0.6% manganese, 0.8- to 1.1% cromium, 0.15- to 0.25% molybdenum, 0.04% phosphorous, 0.04% sulfur, and 0.2- to 0.35% silicon. The other 95-plus percent is made up of good old-fashioned iron.
Other types of CrMo do exist and are weaker than 4130 - so it also pays to check what kind of CrMo you're getting!
If it were more affordable and easier to work with, titanium would by far be the best option for a roll cage, as it is heaps stronger than CrMo (drawn into the same width tubing it's about 1/10th the weight but just as strong, drawn into thicker walled tubing, matching the weight of the CrMo it would be 10 times stronger). It also has about 10 times the flex, ie: its bouncy! this would mean it would have a dampening effect on a rollover and tend to keep its shape better =) Alot of BMX riders hate Ti for frames as they dont give a positive feel because of its squishyness - but in a protective situation i reckon it'd rock!
Plus you just cant go past that awesome raw Ti look... heh
Anyhoo enough mindless rambling from me. here's a bunch of info on metallurgy: http://www2.sjsu.edu/orgs/asmtms/artcle/articl.htm
That said, im basing that on 4130 CrMo, which is made of 0.28- to 0.33% carbon, 0.4- to 0.6% manganese, 0.8- to 1.1% cromium, 0.15- to 0.25% molybdenum, 0.04% phosphorous, 0.04% sulfur, and 0.2- to 0.35% silicon. The other 95-plus percent is made up of good old-fashioned iron.
Other types of CrMo do exist and are weaker than 4130 - so it also pays to check what kind of CrMo you're getting!
If it were more affordable and easier to work with, titanium would by far be the best option for a roll cage, as it is heaps stronger than CrMo (drawn into the same width tubing it's about 1/10th the weight but just as strong, drawn into thicker walled tubing, matching the weight of the CrMo it would be 10 times stronger). It also has about 10 times the flex, ie: its bouncy! this would mean it would have a dampening effect on a rollover and tend to keep its shape better =) Alot of BMX riders hate Ti for frames as they dont give a positive feel because of its squishyness - but in a protective situation i reckon it'd rock!
Plus you just cant go past that awesome raw Ti look... heh
Anyhoo enough mindless rambling from me. here's a bunch of info on metallurgy: http://www2.sjsu.edu/orgs/asmtms/artcle/articl.htm
The worst thing about censorship is ███████.
It doesn't include very good pics but here a page on putting in a custom cage:
http://www.off-road.com/suzuki/samurai/rollcage.htm
http://www.off-road.com/suzuki/samurai/rollcage.htm
"It has the aerodynamics of a brick." - Comment about the Sierra by my dads mate.
nah thats ok dude, i know it won't be as strong is one long bent tube but another thing with this roll bar is that it will not be just joins like straight joins there is about 15cm of the end of the rollbar that is smaller that slots into the rollbar on the other side if that makes any sense, and where we shorten the middle bar to fit the width of the sierra it will not just be straight welded together but will have another tube welded inside of it so that will help it be alot stronger.
Like i said my dad knows wether something will be strong enough or not but yes i still do agree that the B hoop would be stronger as one peice but with the right reinforcement and welding techniques this should be strong enough aswell, plus they work pretty well in wranglers and they are only bolted together from the factory.
Like i said my dad knows wether something will be strong enough or not but yes i still do agree that the B hoop would be stronger as one peice but with the right reinforcement and welding techniques this should be strong enough aswell, plus they work pretty well in wranglers and they are only bolted together from the factory.
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