Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Pic's

B4 it was finished

pic's from our trials when the cage was complete with door bars, dash bar supporting the steering colloum, and with a couple of gussets added.

Mock

Cool Shane started the cage today and it is very similar. Eg not having a front hoop.

cheers for that

last two

Hey can some one post pics of roll bars ( single hoop that ties back to the rear of the tub) any pics or if there are threads links would be very helpfull.

small talk.

Nearly time for my exo to be built! It will be welded to the chassis so...


questions:

1) How are people attaching it to the cahssis. Are they welding the tube directly to it or some plate asnd then the chassis or plate and crush tubes?

2) How are people notching the tube for nice joins.

Cheers

1. I have seen and it’s recommended that you plate the area that you are going to weld to, to spread the load. Makes sense really.
2. I’m using a 40mm hole saw but it is going to be a mission when on an angle. A notcher would be best. Grind it by eye maybe?

So plate it and then weld the plate or bolt either side.

Anyway hows your creation coming along. duncan was giving me the specs. Sounds SWEET!!

Mine should hopefully be finished soon. There is not much left of it though!!

http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modul ... hp?t=35739

This is where it's at

Im running a 50mm tube slider under the door sill which is attached to the chassis in 3 places each side, then the roll bars will come down through the sills and welded to the slider. only works if u have no door but.

You guys are way handy, I'm impressed!

OldGold wrote:You guys are way handy, I'm impressed!

It's not hard to be handy with a grinder!!! HAHA

And Shane is a heavy duty mechanic........so he know a fair bit about cars etc

i'm modifying a wrangler roll bar for my sierra

well yeah, I guess I was presuming you guys actually had the skills to get the thing back together... chopping roofs off can't be that hard

Yeah dude it will be going back together. The cage has been started, will post pic's soon

spamwell wrote:

i'm modifying a wrangler roll bar for my sierra

Ha Ha very funny

what i'm serious, the bends are all correct i just need to maek it narrower and shorter the hoop at the front will be mounted on the chassis probly and the back bars with be mounted to the rear corners

i'll show you when i'm done

Oh I can visualise it and I'm sure that you will be able to make it look like roll over protection....

ooook well i dunno what your problem is

Sorry dude I'll be clearer. Your B hoop should be made out of one piece of steel ie no cuts, no joins..

I don't have a problem, my B hoop is one piece of Chrome Moly...

ok point taken, but if it is good enough to protect someone who rolls a jeep wrangler it's good enough for my suzi , plus it will be all welded together and my dads a proffessional so he will make it strong enough (builds tilt slide and crane trucks that can lift 10 tonnes )

I don't mean to harp on it but it is important (possibly life saving). No matter how good your father is at welding the structure won't be strong. The weld might just be the strongest part of the hoop.

Again, I aint bagging you, I'm just thinking of your safety. I've been in a barrel roll in a Zuk and roll bars are the most important thing you can fit.

It would have cost me about $100 to get my main hoop bent in Moly. As you feel your car reach the balance point, you'd be appreciating the investment....

i ride a heap of BMX, flatland in particular, and CrMo (often called chromo) is used for most of the good brands... quite often though when it breaks, it goes on a weld... ive never seen anyone snap a frame, bars, cranks etc on a straight piece of pipe... however the stuff IS prone to cracking. So once rolled - get it xrayed for cracks!!!

That said, im basing that on 4130 CrMo, which is made of 0.28- to 0.33% carbon, 0.4- to 0.6% manganese, 0.8- to 1.1% cromium, 0.15- to 0.25% molybdenum, 0.04% phosphorous, 0.04% sulfur, and 0.2- to 0.35% silicon. The other 95-plus percent is made up of good old-fashioned iron.

Other types of CrMo do exist and are weaker than 4130 - so it also pays to check what kind of CrMo you're getting!

If it were more affordable and easier to work with, titanium would by far be the best option for a roll cage, as it is heaps stronger than CrMo (drawn into the same width tubing it's about 1/10th the weight but just as strong, drawn into thicker walled tubing, matching the weight of the CrMo it would be 10 times stronger). It also has about 10 times the flex, ie: its bouncy! this would mean it would have a dampening effect on a rollover and tend to keep its shape better =) Alot of BMX riders hate Ti for frames as they dont give a positive feel because of its squishyness - but in a protective situation i reckon it'd rock!

Plus you just cant go past that awesome raw Ti look... heh

Anyhoo enough mindless rambling from me. here's a bunch of info on metallurgy: http://www2.sjsu.edu/orgs/asmtms/artcle/articl.htm

It doesn't include very good pics but here a page on putting in a custom cage:

http://www.off-road.com/suzuki/samurai/rollcage.htm

WOW how old is that article hehehe

I'm gonna be known as the B hoop critic but I hope he doesn't "endo" with that....

nah thats ok dude, i know it won't be as strong is one long bent tube but another thing with this roll bar is that it will not be just joins like straight joins there is about 15cm of the end of the rollbar that is smaller that slots into the rollbar on the other side if that makes any sense, and where we shorten the middle bar to fit the width of the sierra it will not just be straight welded together but will have another tube welded inside of it so that will help it be alot stronger.
Like i said my dad knows wether something will be strong enough or not but yes i still do agree that the B hoop would be stronger as one peice but with the right reinforcement and welding techniques this should be strong enough aswell, plus they work pretty well in wranglers and they are only bolted together from the factory.