Outer Limits 4x4 Board

"MY45" on here has fitted 80s master cylinder and prop valve set up not sure about booster though,And also is it ABS

4sum4 wrote:"MY45" on here has fitted 80s master cylinder and prop valve set up not sure about booster though,And also is it ABS

no no no no no its not ABS no

why did my45 fit the master cylinder and what difference did it make ?

I had heard that it had a bigger bore size and there for would help with the the disks on the front. I found the 80s MC locked the rears straight away so i bought an adjustably break proportioning valve (from rocket racing) then i just adjusted it to where i wanted it through trial and error.
Now i can lock up all four 37's no worries

MY45 wrote:I had heard that it had a bigger bore size and there for would help with the the disks on the front. I found the 80s MC locked the rears straight away so i bought an adjustably break proportioning valve (from rocket racing) then i just adjusted it to where i wanted it through trial and error.
Now i can lock up all four 37's no worries

ok now what sort of dollars are these giggers and can ya get them from say ABS breaks? if i can lock the front breaks (while rears disconnected) after new master cylinder fitted and the proportioning valve i have fitted dosnt do the job that might be the go thanks Darren

DAZ wrote:

MY45 wrote:I had heard that it had a bigger bore size and there for would help with the the disks on the front. I found the 80s MC locked the rears straight away so i bought an adjustably break proportioning valve (from rocket racing) then i just adjusted it to where i wanted it through trial and error.
Now i can lock up all four 37's no worries

ok now what sort of dollars are these giggers and can ya get them from say ABS breaks? if i can lock the front breaks (while rears disconnected) after new master cylinder fitted and the proportioning valve i have fitted dosnt do the job that might be the go thanks Darren

I couldnt tell u the price off the top of my head but ill check my files for u tomorrow and i dont know if you can get em from abs. It was a realy easy job, just fitted it in the engine bay, set it and forget about it 80's MC is a food upgrade. Also with reguard to if disk or drum need more pressure to work its the disk....hope that helps



Adam

Fitted another VH44, remote booster, to a FJ40 with Hilux discs today,
as usual the brakes are now excellent.
Fitting a bigger bore master cylinder will mean a higher pedal pressure is required to have the same braking effect.You need a smaller bore to increase pedal travel and line pressure.
J Top

J Top wrote:Fitted another VH44, remote booster, to a FJ40 with Hilux discs today,
as usual the brakes are now excellent.
Fitting a bigger bore master cylinder will mean a higher pedal pressure is required to have the same braking effect.You need a smaller bore to increase pedal travel and line pressure.
J Top

Smaller bore is only good if your brake pedel is already to hard, if your pedel isnt a larger bore will make a good diff. Anyway im not sure on the size but im sure daz can measure it when he gets it I cant find the price for the prop valve, so just go to rockets website as i think they've got prices on there.

Ok master cylinder still hasnt turned up they forgot to send it ABS do only have one adjustable pro valve $250 if they can ever get it im going to have to look in to it more

as for master cylinder standard is 7/8 80 is 15/16 so not a big deal of difference i will get there upgrading the boster is an option but that will come after the fluid going to the front and rear wheels is correct

Daz,

how is this going (I am waiting nervously here)

you only needed the MC not the booster right?

Cmon fix yours so we all know the easy way out.

priced my 60s master cylinder, $80 SWEEEEETTTTT

add a brake line or two on and I will be finished modding the 40 to get it engineered.

sorry guys having withdrawals so took the 80 4wheeling at the weekend

I have fitted the Master cylinder and new front brake pads, last night i took it for a drive and bedded the pads in. Now after i lock off the back brakes it locks the front wheels at will down to nearly 10klm with very little pedel travel or effort not that it was a prob b4 though just even better now . Having said all that im going to remove the hilux load shareing proportioning valve i fitted and i today am ordering an adjustable valve from the local auto barn it is another $195 but ill just keep adjusting it down untill the front breaks lock and not the rear. Thats the update for now fingers crossed that might just do it just hope the engineer is happy with the valve being adjustable time will tell

The breaks now work just fine now following
1swaped break lines front to rear - no change
2 Fitted load share proportioning valve-little change
3 Fitted 80 series master cylinder-Breaks just work better with less pedal travel prob not really needed
4 Fitted better quality front break pads-Breaks just work better with less pedal travel prob not really needed
5 Fitted an after market adjustable break proportioning valve reduces fluid by up to 57%-was all but enough
6 Refitted load share proportioning valve sourced from a hilux in conjunction with the above after market valve
Results are i can now adjust back breaks to all but lock up at any speed it stops real good, I can lock the breaks up under 20klm quite easy if i wish.
Time to see if the engineer is as happy as me

g'day i was wondering in all this when you fitted the front diff did you machine the front disc's? and are you going to when you fit the new pads? if you don't you will gain nothing by fitting the new pads.I know that in holdens like hq's they have a valve in the master for the rear brakes that hold line pressure. maybe that is something to look at.
did you measure the piston depth in the 80 master? which is were the booster pushrod meats the master ? because if they are not the same you have more headaches. if the rod is to short the brakes will slam on and if to long the brakes will hold on.

cheers

DAZ wrote:The breaks now work just fine now following
.......

The boosters are pretty much the same, I just fitted a 60 series MC to mine, bolt on job, as easy as they get and lifted overall braking performance not only the front.

tuf045 wrote:g'day i was wondering in all this when you fitted the front diff did you machine the front disc's? and are you going to when you fit the new pads? if you don't you will gain nothing by fitting the new pads.I know that in holdens like hq's they have a valve in the master for the rear brakes that hold line pressure. maybe that is something to look at.
did you measure the piston depth in the 80 master? which is were the booster pushrod meats the master ? because if they are not the same you have more headaches. if the rod is to short the brakes will slam on and if to long the brakes will hold on.

cheers

no didnt machine i agree sort of
im not sure about holding pressure but they do have a valve that reduces the presure by 30% to rear and that was not enough
measured piston depth yes and was the same
fingers crossed i think it is fine time will tell

Just received word the adjustable proportioning valve passed....
It would appear this fella is now engineered 100% signed sealed and delivered

So cmon you mongrel and organise a trip

Darren

i fitted a reco'd 80 booster and master cylinder to a mates 40, soa running 38s, 47S discs up front and drums in the rear.

it locked up all 4 at 70km an hour (scary shit in a lifted cruiser)

the booster is the shit, required some trimming on the firewall

but solved the problem we were having big time

He left here at 5pm and was happy happy happy as it has now all past engineers and he took his 35s back, I tried telling him I wasn`t home and was on my way to cape york in the 80 with his 35s on but he didn`t believe me

they woulda been off quicker than a beaver on a burning bridge

Like a rat up a drain pipe.

got home at 7.30pm last night and by 9am she is just the way i like em topless and keen to go hard

drove it to work today no roof no doors and parked right where it is going to be in every ones face


yer baby

ow and dont need boster changed breaks are spot on as is thanks all for your input it all helped a lot thanks again.

the only thing is it did 700 odd klm yesterday did not even go close to running hot but is leaking oil out the rear main but who cares its done

Always good to see a happy ending Daz.......

tuf045 wrote:g'day i was wondering in all this when you fitted the front diff did you machine the front disc's? and are you going to when you fit the new pads? if you don't you will gain nothing by fitting the new pads.I know that in holdens like hq's they have a valve in the master for the rear brakes that hold line pressure. maybe that is something to look at.
did you measure the piston depth in the 80 master? which is were the booster pushrod meats the master ? because if they are not the same you have more headaches. if the rod is to short the brakes will slam on and if to long the brakes will hold on.

cheers

I adjusted the rod out n my ln106 booster, bled it after the adjustement ofcourse etc...


I went for a spin the other day and the brakes have improved like anything for pedal feel and stopping power etc.

When driving home the brakes were smoking, they were partially stuck on etc.

Was thinking it was a seized caliper but could it be that I have extended the rod too far????? I would have thought that bleeding after I have modified it would mean that the brakes couldn't be stuck on from this???? Thought it would just take up any space betweeen the booster and master cylinders etc.

Does it sound like a caliper or the rod?

high n mighty wrote:Always good to see a happy ending Daz.......

tuf045 wrote:g'day i was wondering in all this when you fitted the front diff did you machine the front disc's? and are you going to when you fit the new pads? if you don't you will gain nothing by fitting the new pads.I know that in holdens like hq's they have a valve in the master for the rear brakes that hold line pressure. maybe that is something to look at.
did you measure the piston depth in the 80 master? which is were the booster pushrod meats the master ? because if they are not the same you have more headaches. if the rod is to short the brakes will slam on and if to long the brakes will hold on.

cheers

I adjusted the rod out n my ln106 booster, bled it after the adjustement ofcourse etc...


I went for a spin the other day and the brakes have improved like anything for pedal feel and stopping power etc.

When driving home the brakes were smoking, they were partially stuck on etc.

Was thinking it was a seized caliper but could it be that I have extended the rod too far????? I would have thought that bleeding after I have modified it would mean that the brakes couldn't be stuck on from this???? Thought it would just take up any space betweeen the booster and master cylinders etc.

Does it sound like a caliper or the rod?

Its the ROD

I am thinking the same....

Would be a wise call to say that the brakes surely couldn't be stuck on because they have only been bled so far as to meet the disk??

Im sure it probably is the rod but gotta look at all angles.