Outer Limits 4x4 Board

[quote="lowndsie"]My god what have i done???????? how the #$%^ am i gunna get the bloody thing back in.
[quote]

Youll be right dude.

Just take your time, its good experience.

just another question. how the hell do you get the gearbox crankshaft to line back up with the engine once it's ready to go back in????

looks dam hard.

need a special tool to align them up or do it as best ya can by eye then turn engine over by hand when you try to re-=align them

lowndsie wrote:just another question. how the hell do you get the gearbox crankshaft to line back up with the engine once it's ready to go back in????

looks dam hard.

if you haven't moved the clutch, it should just go back in. Take the weight and line it up with the engine crane. Push it back and hold it, put a bolt in either side and catch threads, then do up - make sure you have thread, otherwise you'll **** the bolt or worse.

ditto with heath
on rockies can be pain in ass coz weight off centre in g'box and transfer but with one bloke on top with hoist and myself doing the juggle of driveline went in ok
key is be patient and watch angles as you go

ok. the bad news is i can't clean to sump fully without taking of the clutch assembly. I'm now trying to work out if it's worth it or if i should just clean that back as well as possible and hope it doesnt leak again????

lowndsie wrote:ok. the bad news is i can't clean to sump fully without taking of the clutch assembly. I'm now trying to work out if it's worth it or if i should just clean that back as well as possible and hope it doesnt leak again????

If you are able to change crank seal behind the clutch assembly, then maybe it a good time to do it. I mean if your taking the clutch of an all.

lown.... honestly its not that hard to take it off. i had figured you would have to remove it in order to clean up the seal... and honestly, i would take it off.... otherwise all the work you went though would be in vain since that would be your next weak spot. know what i mean? let us know what you decide to do.

Ok.. I agree that it would be bad (i'd shoot myself) to have it leak again after all this.....

So pointers on how to get the clutch off?

lowndsie wrote:So pointers on how to get the clutch off?

How old is the clutch? Maybe better to replace. if your not going to replace it, take it off like you do a wheel - diagonally opposite bolts, but only a few turns at a time. This prevents warping.

Next is the flywheel. I hope you have access to a rattle gun, cause those bolts are tight, and its difficult to remove em cause the engine turns. If your putting a new clutch in, the flywheel will need to be machined.

And putting things back in, basically the same thing reversed, but get the tension values from the service manual.

Well the clutch was replaced bout 6 months ago with a heavy duty one. looking at it now i can see the leak could have been caused by a careless mechanic. I'll suss it out tonight to be sure because i really feel i'm going a little (alot) over my head taking all this apart. The service manual makes the removal of the clutch sound quite complicated.

Anyway, here some pix of the progress so far. I've included a pic of one of the old mounts even though it's not the reason for removing the motor. This one just fell straight off when it was unbolted.

Looks like you are making good progress mate.
Gee those broken engine mounts look familiar

Don't talk to me about engine mounts... *sighs*

I gotta replace mine....

rofl! broke mine as well... talk about annoying..... lown... clutch is not that hard, trust me... just patience man.. patience! and the right tools... lol... if i remember correctly you have the cover... the clutch ass. itself, and the fly wheel? just make sure they get lined up correctly via a clutch tool when you put it all back together.. and when you put the bolts for the flywheel back on, use some kind of compound.. such as lockrite or locktight.. cant remember what its called.... or something simliar... it'll help ensure those bolts dont come out from daily use. just take it one bit at a time and you'll be fine.. i know the feeling though.... focus on one thing, one small task at once and it'll all come together nicely... the keyword here though, is patience!!!!

oh and did I mention




































PATIENCE

but heath.. you didnt mention that word.....


























































i did.....

Bloody hell....you weren't wrong bout those bolts being tight.

anyway, have a mate coming up on saturday with a rattle gun.

seems pretty straight forward with the clutch. it was more confusing because the manual tells you how to remove the springs and i dont need to do that so i saved a bit of time.

I'm just looking at each individual job, not the overall task so things aren't looking so bad. Just a matter of time now and it'll be time to fit the motor back in......

Have you identified the source of the oil lead. I recall you saying at our last meeting that your clutch wasnt feeling all that healthy. Might have been the oil causing the slippage?

yeah it was the sump leaking. It had been ever since they put the heavy duty clutch in the sump has been seaping but it never really started to leak until the engine mounts broke loose.

Speaking of clutches, i noticed that the blades at the centre of the shroud (dont know the tech name) have wear marks on the edges of them. I thought that happened when someone leaves their foot on the clutch???? but i know i don't do that.

lowndsie wrote:Speaking of clutches, i noticed that the blades at the centre of the shroud (dont know the tech name) have wear marks on the edges of them. I thought that happened when someone leaves their foot on the clutch???? but i know i don't do that.

you mean the fins on pressure plate. Thats where the trust bearing poushes on then when you put your foot on the clutch. Dont worry too much about them.

yeah thats the part i was trying to say.

hey lowns... when i undid my bolts on the clutch/flywheel.... i found that there was some sort of compound on the threads.... i'm assuming some form of lockrite or somethin.... anyways. tried a rattle gun, didnt work at all.... only way i could get those dumb bolts off was to get the help of my neighbor who was a body builder.... used 2 socket wrenches, one for each end, and use a breaker bar on each one... i stood on the end holding the crank shaft in place (front of engine) and had my neighbor crank on the bolts on the clutch/flywheel... let me tell ya, he lifted me up quite a few times and i weigh 170 lbs.... those sucker are on tight... but if you get a long enough breaker bar.. you should be alright.. i would try maybe 2-3 feet if possible.. i only had a 1 1/2 and it didnt do very well..

When it comes time to re-torque up the flywheel to crank bolts, you will need to make up a tool that will attach to the flywheel to keep it from turning. use a piece of square tube or flat bar about 2 foot long, drill holes in it to match two opposing holes on the flywheel, where the clutch bolts to the flywheel.

yeah that tool sounds like a good idea.

I'm in the process now of removing the steering box so the power assisted one can go in. So far all is well.

Have a friend coming up tomorrow to help get those bloody flywheel bolts out. He weighs a couple hundred pounds so i have a good feeling they'll come off ok.

You might need to make up the tool before then, to stop the crank from rotating. the nut on teh front pulley wont help you unfortunately, it is a right hand thread... and is not large enough to use as a locking point.

well what a screwed day today ended up being. firstly, i cracked the head off a bolt on the engine bay......still haven't got the rest out yet. then i tried installing the power steering box and i cant the old steering link joint out. i even tried heating it up but it just wont budge. i wasted all day and all i got done was put the sump back on.....

well at least today was a bit better. I got the snapped bolt out with an easy out tool and i got the steering box arm off by heating it up and then clamping down on the rod with a small vice.

I also got most of the dash back on and re wired the uhf to the front drivers side stereo speaker. just need to finish the dash and then install the new stereo speakers on the doors.

I'm hoping to start putting the motor back as soon as wednesday. The twits at spare parts sold me two tranny mounts and one engine mounts so i'm delayed by another day at least whilst i case the correct mount.

I'm also welding up a bracket for a 2nd battery to go with the dick smith dual setup. After all that i'm chasing a thermo fan to fit as well.

i just worked out that the most expensive thing i had to get so far for helping rebuild it..........is the beer.

i'm sure you know what i mean croz?????

well??????? anything further

yeah theres been a bit. been sick so i havent got all that much done.

i've done all the repairs and got the engine back in last night. i've only done a few bolts up so i'm not really in the stages of connecting everything back up yet.

I am a little concerned that the timing might be out now cause i couldnt stop the flywheel completey from turning when putting torque into those bolts???

Took ages to get that bloody shaft lined up with the clutch when trying to push the motor into it's spot.