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Posted: Fri May 20, 2005 9:20 pm
by elgordomuygrande
kewl dude, is it a softtop version or a resin top, like mine. Is the rollbar attached to the body or is it welded to the frame? keep coming with the pics!
Posted: Fri May 20, 2005 10:36 pm
by Croxly
Ah it was a hard top, which got a little rusty, so I chopped it off
The hard top is just spot welded on and could be pried off with a big screwdriver. The only real difference between this and the soft top/resin top is you guys have a lip welded on to make the edge stronger and safer.
The rollbar is just attached to the wheel arches, so I dont think I would like to test it out in a roll over, but Im sure is an improvement over the standard bar the softops have.
Posted: Mon May 23, 2005 7:34 pm
by Chris F20 maniac
that is one sweet little rig!!
im still waitin on those rims to arrive wish they would hurry up!
keep comin with those pics man the F50 looks great
Posted: Wed May 25, 2005 9:34 pm
by Croxly
Well my transfer case just but the dust :( But then it is 26 years old.
The rocky's is a straight swap right? I might try and source a rocky one as reading up on it, it seems the older ones (F10, F20, F50 etc.) are prone to die and the newer ones are better?
After reading some of the other F20 threads about engine swaps, surely the F20 owners are not limited to 2L engines. The F50 is 2.5L diesel and is the same truck, only the engine and diff is different? So a 2.5L diesel was a factory option for F20 owners
Carnt see why you couldnt put a 2.8L Turbo diesel from a rocky in one without upsetting the authorities.
Posted: Wed May 25, 2005 9:53 pm
by elgordomuygrande
Hey croxly,
I'm pretty sure the later f20/f50/f60 transferboxes are the same as the early rocky's depending on petrol or diesel engine, the inputshafts may differ (not sure about that, depending on 4/5sp . Gearbox internals ar just the same I reckon so swapping in the old input shaft should do the trick. Last model year there was the F60 with the 2.8 dl50 engine, exactly the same as the rocky donk. front disks but rest is al the same. So basically same engine but bigger displacement, turbodiesel intercooled donk then would be the same as an aftermarket turbo eh?
BTW diff ratio's f60 and f50 differ (from memory 1:3.36 and 1:3.45, posted these elsewhere on OL)
cheers, Ron
Posted: Wed May 25, 2005 10:40 pm
by Croxly
Thanks Ron
I might ring around tomorrow and see how much this is going to cost. Might see if I can find a 5 speed with shafts while im at it
Posted: Thu May 26, 2005 9:15 am
by Mudzuki
No an F20, but inspiration.
Posted: Thu May 26, 2005 4:16 pm
by Croxly
Thats what I want to do to mine! Any more pics or details?
Posted: Fri May 27, 2005 7:50 am
by Chris F20 maniac
dont worry man im gettin those nice 34" swampers put on the rims today! then all i have to do is buy a welder tub the rear guards and put on a bling snork like the ones in those pics of the daihatsu in the outback challenge!
im startin to look at engines and so far cause mines a pety im goin for an 2.0l 18R motor and im gona put a mild cam in and some nice fuel sucking carbies! that should give the old girl a bit of life!
so dont worry about me mate ive got plenty of inspiration, its the money and the tools to do it with that are lacking.
ill post up some pics of the LTB swampers real soon!
Posted: Tue May 31, 2005 7:59 am
by Chris F20 maniac
ok here she is in all her majesty!!
Posted: Tue May 31, 2005 3:21 pm
by Croxly
Sweet! They look so much nicer with some big rubber on them
Posted: Tue May 31, 2005 6:06 pm
by daRangie
Geez, the 31" rubber on my old F10 ripped the guards apart on artic, how are you going with those? Looks very sweet by the way!!
Cheers
Randal
Posted: Tue May 31, 2005 7:00 pm
by elgordomuygrande
Dude that's awesome!! have you been wheelin'yet, any impressiions to share
how much did you cut of your fenders?
Cheers
Posted: Tue May 31, 2005 10:26 pm
by Area54
Chris that does look pretty phat.
here is my little jigger:
Posted: Thu Jun 02, 2005 4:50 pm
by Chris F20 maniac
all i did was cut off the piece of the guard that drops down after the guard flares out and of course those 2in extended shackles.
at the moment im workin on a stainless steel snorkel and a 2in body lift to make sure the tyres dont rubb the gurards and some longer shocks for more down travel.
i have taken it off the road on a local trip but nothin hard core yet cause my drum brakes are playin up. so im lookin at converting to disc on the front.
here are some more pics!
Posted: Thu Jun 02, 2005 4:55 pm
by Chris F20 maniac
Oh yeah and im gona mod that massive bullbar down to a neater stronger one!
here are some comparison pics for before and after type thing
Posted: Fri Jun 03, 2005 3:24 am
by Croxly
Got any info on how todo the disc conversion, im thinking of one myself. Is there any reason you cant to all 4 wheels?
Just read that a guy in the UK was running a rover 3.5L V8 with the standard drivetrain and used in comps with no problems
Posted: Fri Jun 03, 2005 4:05 am
by elgordomuygrande
Front disc conversion shouldn't be so difficult since apart from breaking gear, hubs are completely the same. I think I have some drawings of the hubs somewhere. Try to find them tomorrow and post them .
As for rear disks, check gonzo4x4.be, he's doing a terrific custom conversion.
edit:
Rover V8's seem a nice upgrade. I don't really know much about them but i think they aren't really powerhouses. Output is slightly higher than the rocky tdi engines, which basically use the same drivetrain as the f20. Nice roarrr however...
Cheers,
Ron
Posted: Fri Jun 03, 2005 8:00 am
by Chris F20 maniac
the 3.5 rover V8 conversion sounds good!
and you say that he used standard running gear! thats pretty amazing
and i thought putting in a 2L with a mild cam and some webber carbies was a good idea!
it would be nice to do disks all round and ive spoken to gonzo about it.
he recons that i might be able to straight up swap some rocky disks staight on to the ball joints for the front end.
as for the rear if you look at snake racing they make a bracket for rear disk conversion on a suzi wich i believe would fit the rear F20 axel.
but for the $500 bucks it costs i think you only get the bracket, then you have to go buy everything else yourself.
so if you guys have any suggestions let me know.
Posted: Fri Jun 03, 2005 8:27 am
by elgordomuygrande
Forgive me my ignorance, but why should you want discs in the rear. Is it a legal thing, or just stopping power? I just cleaned my brakes f+R , new pads and liners, and I didn't notice a difference. I am still locking my rears when braking hard, so there seems enough power in the drums with 31's. 34's may be another story but a bigger booster from the salvage yard can compensate for this me thinks. and there's 500 bucks left for other mods...well just my 2cts .
Posted: Fri Jun 03, 2005 9:36 am
by Mudzuki
Discs all round is to save the effort of cleaning them after every trip, as chris is a lazy bugger
Posted: Fri Jun 03, 2005 4:02 pm
by Croxly
Yeah I get sick of adjusting them and cleaning them, plus mine have just about had it so Im interested in cost difference between overhauling the old drums or replacing them with disc's. Im kind of trying to weigh up the pros and cons. I dont know if I should just to some mild stuff or just go and do a swap to hilux running gear. Is there any problems getting the a hilux swap engineered?
Heres that post about the V8
http://www.daihatsu-drivers.co.uk/node/2941
Posted: Wed Jun 08, 2005 5:14 am
by elgordomuygrande
hey fellas,
Just tried to find some schematics off the knuckles (I anyone's interested, Ill scan them). They're from a parts book from '78, and no disks up to 83 so I can't really tell the difference between them. Cross checking with the rocky knuckles from the digital manual it seems by the schematics that they are the same. Partnumber of the f20 knuckles are 43211-87601-000
43212-87601-000
RHS and LHS respectively.
Can someone crossreference these with actual rocky partnumbers, cause this seems the key to converting the old gals to disks using rocky knuckles.
Cheers
Posted: Thu Jun 09, 2005 2:21 pm
by Chris F20 maniac
if you could post up those scanned images that would be great!
ive been looking forward to this conversion for a long time!
just customised that bullbar and resprayed it last night, so some pics of that will be coming soon!
hooray the modifying train has left the station and is moving quickly yehaa
Posted: Thu Jun 09, 2005 5:03 pm
by elgordomuygrande
Here ya go mate, first one's from the rocky service manual I downloaded from the daihatsu sticky. Very useful because most drivetrain components are identical, unfrotunately no partnumbers...
second one I scanned from the partscatalogue
cheers
Posted: Fri Jun 10, 2005 8:41 am
by Mudzuki
From the look of those pics, it looks like it could be a very simple conversion, if the steering knuckle and spindle are the same or interchangeable.
Posted: Fri Jun 10, 2005 7:29 pm
by TX4000
Ok... heres a question, can I adjust the top/bottom steering knuckle bearings (being tapered ?) as mine have a fair amount of u/d movement.
is there adjustment ? or are they shimmed ?
Cheers.
Posted: Fri Jun 10, 2005 7:34 pm
by elgordomuygrande
yep, their shimmed (no 11 in pic) and available in 0.1, 0.25 and 0.5 mm thickness to give you an idea. Check the Rocky service manual for procedure.
Posted: Fri Jun 10, 2005 8:18 pm
by TX4000
Ahh i see... you can lift the end of the hub up from the bottom a fair degree... might swap top for bottom bearings for now. I should do the whole lot and be done with... while I can still get em.
Right.. time to find manual link
thanx.
Posted: Fri Jun 10, 2005 8:25 pm
by elgordomuygrande
http://www.asatraction4x4.cl/html/modul ... cle&sid=15
Did you check this page, link from the faq sticky doesn't seem to work...
Otherwise I can send you the pdf by email although it's quite large (approx. 40 mb covering diffs only)
cheers
edit:
Oh yeah, partsno. guru says :
90045-65028-000 (0.15mm)
90045-65029-000 (0.20mm)
90045-65030-000 (0.30mm)
shims in earlier post are for pre 78 models, guess they use other bearings