Outer Limits 4x4 Board

bazzle wrote:Your vehicle and reliability etc is worth Thosands $$$$.
But you want cheap body lift materiial??

Di it right 1st time. Use ally or steel..

Bazzle

Some people just can't get it through there heads that metals aren't the strongest/best material for every job.

You are holding a body on the semi-floats on rubber mounts, there is no rocket science here. A suitable engineered nylon is better than steel or alloy any day. No corrosion

Utemad wrote:I just called DOT in Brisbane to get the application letter sent to me. They said to use either
Alloy
Neoprene
Polyurothene
Steel

No mention of anything else. Perhaps they will send an info sheet with the form.

Can you please post or PM the number you called, i want to do one correctly aswell.
Thanks Glen

Time to dig up an old thread

We've covered where to get the block materials from. Where does everyone get bolts from (particularly in Sydney)?

For the Paj I need 10 x 140 x 1.25 pitch high tensile bolts. Of all the places I've tried, the longest I can find is 120mm. I was thinking of buying HTS threaded rod and welding the nut in place at one end, but in 10mm I can only find a course thread

I've tried:
Coventry Fasteners - Said they COULD get them in, but I'd have to buy a whole box (~50 bolts... that's an option, if I can find 3 others to split it with)
Mitchell's Engineering
Bolt On Fasteners & Eng. Supplies
LM Fasteners
I think Hobson Engineering has them, but won't sell to the public.

Also looked throgh all the fasteners catalogues at work (bunnings) and none of the suppliers we deal with make a 10x140mm HTS bolt.

Also tried calling some of the places that do body lifts, but they get bolts from places that won't sell to the public. And they wouldn't sell me any either.

we've got a shop called nuts and bolts in ipswich who seen to be able to get any lenght bolt you want.

Spimon_NH `
I had the same drama when trying to locate bolts for the Cruiser. In the end I got some from a little rural supply place at Yarrawonga. I don't remember the name but its on the way out of town on the Benalla Rd on the right hand side of the road and they sell agricultural fittings and sprockets & chain etc. The guy had a real dip and chased around until he found what I wanted then ordered them and rang me when they arrived . With service like that I should remember his mane but I have a lousy memory for that sort of thing
I wasted my time going to Coventry in Albury they wanted me to buy 2 boxes of 50 because I wanted 4 x 140mm and 2 x 200mm HT bolts
Cheers PeterO

Spimon_NH wrote:For the Paj I need 10 x 140 x 1.25 pitch high tensile bolts. Of all the places I've tried, the longest I can find is 120mm.

Forget the 1.25 pitch. Purchase new HT bolts AND NUTS in 10 x 1.5mm. And get two "mudguard" washers (larger OD) per bolt too - the original bolts have anti-rotation "tabs" under the head which are larger than normal 10mm washers. It is better to be safe than sorry.

I bought nyloc nuts because I read somewhere that the inspection people like to see that.

And be careful - I once took in a sample bolt, told them I wanted 10mm bolts. Dufus behind the counter measured it with the verniers and came back with 3/8" UNC.

Good luck,

Scott

there is a guy in parrmatta, cant remeber there name, but they will do any number of the type of fastner you need, try the yellowpages

I'm not that worried about the pitch. 1.25 would be nice, but I'll gladly take 1.5 if I can find them anywhere.

I'll definitely be using HT nylox nuts too. I have the big washers for both ends of the bolt. Just need to find these bolts somewhere.

Thanks for the help guys!

*EDIT*
WOOOHOOO!! Lee Brothers Engineering have them! For those who reach near insanity looking for bolts, here's the contact.
$49.48 + GST for 12 of them.

Lee Brothers Engineering
6 Dunlop Street
North Parramatta
ph:9890 1555
8am - 5pm

Spimon_NH wrote:I'm not that worried about the pitch. 1.25 would be nice, but I'll gladly take 1.5 if I can find them anywhere.

I'll definitely be using HT nylox nuts too. I have the big washers for both ends of the bolt. Just need to find these bolts somewhere.

Is that place at Parramatta called Lee Brothers Engineering, by any chance? Thats about the only place I can find at Parramatta. The one at Harris Park only went up to 120mm

Thanks for the help guys!

that sounds right

There is a place at penrith called
Nepean Bolt Master
They have a wide varity of bolts and stuff.

eliteforce32 wrote:high tensile 8.8

According to the "fastener tech" article on pirate4x4 8.8 metric bolts are only the equivalent of an SAE grade 5 bolt. To get the equivalent to SAE grade 8 bolt in a metric size a 10.9 bolt is required. I'm not picking on you eliteforce32 just letting people know there is a difference.

I got my bolts from Newcastle Hi Tensile Bolt Shop, 14 Various bolts and nuts to suit my Courier, about $38 all up

gday i just fitted 75mm body lifters to my hilux but now it seems that my transfer case and gearbox levers are out of thier pivot range . what can i do to rectify this problem any help would be appreicated

Roctoy Designfab wrote:the engineering plastic "Acetal" should be able to be used without a metal sleve, the stuff is as strong as steel, i've heard of some companies cutting gears out of it.
Chris

Theres a place here in Newcastle that cuts gears out of it for the mines i think. They have them all over the wall as you go in there shop.

They have been making radiator support panels (Europeon cars) out of it to for a while now and are even making the boot floors and radiator support panels on the VE commodores out of it or something very similar now to so these products must have well and truly proven themselves by now.

That is what i used for my body mounts and I didn't use steel crush tubes. They are out living the rest of the steel body mounts which are starting to slap out.

Cheers Mick.

I turned up some 55mm blocks using teflon stock ... dont know if it has much of a memory but interested to see how it goes

Will order in some polyurethane if needs be...

high n mighty wrote: Some people just can't get it through there heads that metals aren't the strongest/best material for every job.

You are holding a body on the semi-floats on rubber mounts, there is no rocket science here. A suitable engineered nylon is better than steel or alloy any day. No corrosion

The problem with plastics is they creep, they actually flow away from any areas of compression. So over time your plastic spacers get shorter, making the bolts loosen.
Then your body isn't attached particularly well.

And by that time your rubbers are completely shot and have lost 25% of their height, but won't really matter too much as the corrosion between your alloy or steel block has eaten through your floor pan anyways.

Utemad wrote:I just called DOT in Brisbane to get the application letter sent to me. They said to use either
Alloy
Neoprene
Polyurothene
Steel

No mention of anything else. Perhaps they will send an info sheet with the form.

I have an old wet suit here, should I just cut that up, or if I wanted a 4 inch body lift I could use stubby holders
Peter.

droopypete wrote:

Utemad wrote:I just called DOT in Brisbane to get the application letter sent to me. They said to use either
Alloy
Neoprene
Polyurothene
Steel

No mention of anything else. Perhaps they will send an info sheet with the form.

I have an old wet suit here, should I just cut that up, or if I wanted a 4 inch body lift I could use stubby holders
Peter.

fully the stubby holder with polystyrene to keep its cylindrical shape first.

A mates dad got pulled over a little while ago and got told that his steel blocks werent allowed and he'd have to remove it or use poly or plastic blocks. Something about corrosion is the reason why steel and alloy arent allowed... Sounds like BS to me...

SilverBulletBM wrote:A mates dad got pulled over a little while ago and got told that his steel blocks werent allowed and he'd have to remove it or use poly or plastic blocks. Something about corrosion is the reason why steel and alloy arent allowed... Sounds like BS to me...

Let me guess,

He was pulled over by the police?

Shadow wrote:

droopypete wrote:

Utemad wrote:I just called DOT in Brisbane to get the application letter sent to me. They said to use either
Alloy
Neoprene
Polyurothene
Steel

No mention of anything else. Perhaps they will send an info sheet with the form.

I have an old wet suit here, should I just cut that up, or if I wanted a 4 inch body lift I could use stubby holders
Peter.

fully the stubby holder with polystyrene to keep its cylindrical shape first.

Are you some sort of engineer?

droopypete wrote:

Shadow wrote:

droopypete wrote:

Utemad wrote:I just called DOT in Brisbane to get the application letter sent to me. They said to use either
Alloy
Neoprene
Polyurothene
Steel

No mention of anything else. Perhaps they will send an info sheet with the form.

I have an old wet suit here, should I just cut that up, or if I wanted a 4 inch body lift I could use stubby holders
Peter.

fully the stubby holder with polystyrene to keep its cylindrical shape first.

Are you some sort of engineer?

funnily enough i am

SilverBulletBM wrote:A mates dad got pulled over a little while ago and got told that his steel blocks werent allowed and he'd have to remove it or use poly or plastic blocks. Something about corrosion is the reason why steel and alloy arent allowed... Sounds like BS to me...

Sounds like chinese whispers to me. If steel and aluminium were really a problem, they wouldn't be making cars from them.

yeah was pulled over at RBT unit and the copper had a look under caz it looked a bit high. He said something bout there being a corrosion spot between the blocks and body/chassis and that he had to take them out or get them changed to rubber/plastic. To me its BS, police officers DONT have a roadworthy licence, who are they to tell me if my car is legal or not.

SilverBulletBM wrote:yeah was pulled over at RBT unit and the copper had a look under caz it looked a bit high. He said something bout there being a corrosion spot between the blocks and body/chassis and that he had to take them out or get them changed to rubber/plastic. To me its BS, police officers DONT have a roadworthy licence, who are they to tell me if my car is legal or not.

umm...who are they?....they would be THE COPS!

This is abit of a dig but i thought id post here rather than creating a new thread, and it may be helpful to others looking at this thread ( i found it thru the hilux bible thread )

I am wanting to put a cab lift on my hilux except im not 100% sure how to go about it. its a 2000 model dual cab.

i have looked all over youtube and google and on here but can not find a "how to" guide on installing a lift kit.

some questions would be, do i need to extend brake lines, change gear shift levers? steering spline extension ect ect.

if any one has any guides on how to do this please post them up, thanks

I use all of these materials everyday and firstly, yes you can cut gears from some plastics i do it all the time. Some plastics are that hard they actually chip and or break in half when machining.The hardest material isnt always the best option for everything Whether you use plastic/steel or aluminium, over a long period of time they are all goin to wear, corrode or squash whatever it may be. The rest of your car is made from these materials as well. I can see good reasons for the use of either plastic or ally blocks and i think it really comes down to personal preference(assuming the type of plastic is suitable) I know the list of approved materials seems to be a bit hit and miss. I personally used aluminium. If your that worried about it corroding then insulate it Some plastics go brittle over time also, so at the end of the day nothing is going to last forever. Just my 2c

Ps in regards to actually doing the lift itself, search. It is definately on here somewhere, was a whole thread on it not that long ago

Nuckingfuts wrote:Whether you use plastic/steel or aluminium, over a long period of time they are all goin to wear, corrode or squash whatever it may be.

Metals may corrode, but they won't squash.
Plastics creep (keep deforming over time) so your blocks will keep getting shorter and shorter.
In comparison it takes a big load to squash an aluminium or steel spacer.

alrob wrote:bump!

been told not to use aluminium, as it has been known to punch through the floor!!

maybe plastic is the way to go

Plastic is not legal for bodylifts in Victoria.

Alloy or steel only in Vic.

I know there is nothing wrong with plastic, but rules are rules.

In relation to the punching effect, in your case, if plastic didn't punch through the floor, then it must deform at the same load. You don't want the BL deforming as the bolts will then loosen and the cab will get loose. Bad.

Steve.