Outer Limits 4x4 Board

I too am curious about longer leaves.
If you could get leaves about 1-1.5 inch or so longer you could get a nice shackle angle with slightly longer shackles without fawking about with wheel base and chasi extensions.
All you would need would be the main leaf for each pack.
Paul.

apparently mazda 808 wagon springs are a good length. you could also try the top leaf out of some old leafy vans. Stay away from the larger 4bys as the leaves are alot thicker and such are stiffer.

the jackaroo leaves we are using are about 200mm longer eye to eye. We removed the load leaf and flipped the bottom leaf onto the top to flatten them out. ( would have givien 4" lift easy)

Shackle angle will be about 45 degrees, or a fraction less.

the thing to look at with choosing a longer leaf is how long it becomea when flat and then how far past the rear hanger it is will determin the shackle length. if ya use a 200mm longer leaf then the shackle would have to be at least 120mm longer and thats huge

Gutless wrote:Shocks are getting closer everyday We are ute cabbing it ( hard top) and then moving the tank soon, so will prolly keep the diff where it is for now, and in a few months after the ute conversion, we'll move the diff back and relocate the tank.

Will post pics when done

Cmon Pete, don't make us wait, post up some progress pics!

Are the pins in the rear springs offset? Or are they in the middle of the spring?

Yes I tried searching

Ok here are some pics. rear end owes him $300 including NEW long travel shocks. We can milk another 2" of travel out of it too





RUF is next weekend, and thats all new suspension for under $500 with more travel than a suzisport kit anyday of the week and twice on sundays

I didn't get any pics of it off the ramp, but we are taking it out tomorrow to test it. It has no lockers yet so there is only so much we can do, but if for no other reason; I'd recommend this mod for the simple fact that the on road ride quality is 1000% better!! It drives better than my patrol!

Got any pics of the shockie setup?

any mods done to the front.

cheers

shockies are mounted to original mounts at the top ( will be layed inwards by 2" when we do the ute cab)

The bottom mounts are on new bottom plates, but are basically the same as factory, so no real changes to shockie mounts.

the front is standard.

How long is the shackle at the rear?

Do you know what shocks were used? lengths?

what are the plans for the front?

RUF is next weekend, will post the shackle and shock lengths next weekend.

hey gutless with the front mount setup does the leaf hit the bolt that goes through the stock mount when fully compressed and what are the chances of getting the dimensions off ya so i can make a sililar setup.

No it doesn't hit that bolt. There is about 10mm clearance on full uptravel.

I will see If I can draw it up, otherwise I can post the template to you

i like the look of that mount, practical.... got any other pics of it before it went on? might need to copy it sometime

ausyota wrote:I too am curious about longer leaves.
If you could get leaves about 1-1.5 inch or so longer you could get a nice shackle angle with slightly longer shackles without fawking about with wheel base and chasi extensions.
All you would need would be the main leaf for each pack.
Paul.

the reason we do the RUF is not so much for getting more flex (although this is definetely a bonus( but to change the weight balance. By bringing the front diff forward it moves the weight in front of the engine giving a much better feel when flexing.

If that makes any sense

Yes it makes sense grimbo, but how much difference will 1 or 2" make???

Stumped: will get some more pics, but the brackets have been on and off a few times now, so I don't really fancy the idea of pulling them off again just for a pic

Basically ita a plate bolted either side of the original mount ( as long as you need to fit your chosen leaf springs). There is a plate that goes across the top of the two side plates, to stop sideways movement. Then there is a plate that is virticle, that stops the mount from moving up and down. And a web to stop the whole frikin thing from falling appart.

Very simple, and the best thing is its a bolt on mod, so if you decide to change at a later date; half an hour and 6 beers later its gone

Gutless wrote:Yes it makes sense grimbo, but how much difference will 1 or 2" make???

It is quite amazing the way the handling changes especially when you start to unload the front end during a climb

With 31's, will it rub on the back of the headlight bucket? Not too concerned about this as we are cutting behind the headlight out and welding a new inner gaurd into that area that gives a bit more room in the wheel arch. Will also be slicing the front gaurds up to fit some TJ wrangler style flares, but until that happens, will it be ok offroad?

Gutless wrote:With 31's, will it rub on the back of the headlight bucket? Not too concerned about this as we are cutting behind the headlight out and welding a new inner gaurd into that area that gives a bit more room in the wheel arch. Will also be slicing the front gaurds up to fit some TJ wrangler style flares, but until that happens, will it be ok offroad?

'

my front axle is 22mm pushed forward with standard sierra ome front springs (redrilled axle plates)
It has 65mm offset on the rims. It did bind quite a lot on the headlight bucket.
I cut out the offending metal and replaced it with rubber sheet. with tar paint it all looks quite normal...good thing is, on odd times tyres hit, its only rubber, no bind or tyre damage christover

Gutless wrote:With 31's, will it rub on the back of the headlight bucket? Not too concerned about this as we are cutting behind the headlight out and welding a new inner gaurd into that area that gives a bit more room in the wheel arch. Will also be slicing the front gaurds up to fit some TJ wrangler style flares, but until that happens, will it be ok offroad?

Spring over or under ??

SPUA you might hit
SPOA you will be fine.

Gutless wrote:Stumped: will get some more pics, but the brackets have been on and off a few times now, so I don't really fancy the idea of pulling them off again just for a pic

Basically ita a plate bolted either side of the original mount ( as long as you need to fit your chosen leaf springs). There is a plate that goes across the top of the two side plates, to stop sideways movement. Then there is a plate that is virticle, that stops the mount from moving up and down. And a web to stop the whole frikin thing from falling appart.

Very simple, and the best thing is its a bolt on mod, so if you decide to change at a later date; half an hour and 6 beers later its gone

cheers dude, not asking ya to pull it off again tho just if ya got a pic from before it was on... or if u happen to pull it off again

an extra 2 inches can make a huge difference

No really, when a majority of the weight concerntration is in the engineand the diff is directly underneath you would be supprised how much difference there is.

If anyone wants to do RUF in Melbourne and wants to know the difference in weight balance i have scales here suitable for recording the weights.

sierrajim wrote:an extra 2 inches can make a huge difference

No really, when a majority of the weight concerntration is in the engineand the diff is directly underneath you would be supprised how much difference there is.

If anyone wants to do RUF in Melbourne and wants to know the difference in weight balance i have scales here suitable for recording the weights.

May take you up on that .. I'm planning on doing my lil bro's Zuk that is otherwise bog stock .. just for the increase in ride comfort.

would be an interesting experiment.

christover1 wrote:

Gutless wrote:With 31's, will it rub on the back of the headlight bucket? Not too concerned about this as we are cutting behind the headlight out and welding a new inner gaurd into that area that gives a bit more room in the wheel arch. Will also be slicing the front gaurds up to fit some TJ wrangler style flares, but until that happens, will it be ok offroad?

'

my front axle is 22mm pushed forward with standard sierra ome front springs (redrilled axle plates)
It has 65mm offset on the rims. It did bind quite a lot on the headlight bucket.
I cut out the offending metal and replaced it with rubber sheet. with tar paint it all looks quite normal...good thing is, on odd times tyres hit, its only rubber, no bind or tyre damage christover

Thanks bloke

Was gonna chop out that bit of 'offending metal' behind the headlight and weld in some sheet. Might fit some of those TJ style flares at the same time

Where can I get some from? Do overkill sell them?

hey gutless. How did you go with the front spring hangers? got any pics of what ya did?

how would you go trying to get them hangers legal?
gonna try something similar on my zook