Outer Limits 4x4 Board

BadLux wrote:[quote="slosh".

Bubs/ Aza I noticed you did not factor lengthening rear propshaft into your prices? To explain to those not aware the IFS rears have centre pin in different position to std rears, which moves diff rearwards about 2 inches from stock.

Is it possible to do it without moving your diff rearwards?? [/b][/quote]

THE REAR DIFF WILL BE MOVED REAR WOULD, this is becuase of how the spring is made, u could redrill the perches but thats alot more work on top of that and it is not needed. the rear drive shaft does not have to be lengthened as the stock one is long enough to cater for the diff movement, its about 1-1.5" that the diff gets moved. just think.... gives u a better depature angle

and get bellied out on more things

roberts wrote:

bubs wrote:I have quickly done this run down for an idea of what it would cost to have a shop do it

Extended shackles - $150
Shock Relocation Mounts - $150
Shocks Procomp 12" - 15" - $250
Bushes - $25
Brake line - $50
Labour 2hrs @ $50/hr - $100

So providing your own springs you are up for $725

shit stuff is cheap in queensland
i just brought longer shackles and they where half your budget

Mate make them yourself, i just made some 200mm eye to eye shackles and the metal cost me $16 and a couple of hours work. Thats 50mm x 10mm plate 4 pieces at a total length of 260mm, and 2 bits of 50x50x3 SHS out of the $2 bin. Bolts will be a bit more on top of this but beats the inflated prices you pay for bought shackles.

Da Lux wrote:and get bellied out on more things

1 inch doesnt really make a difference

Drop Bear wrote:

roberts wrote:

bubs wrote:I have quickly done this run down for an idea of what it would cost to have a shop do it

Extended shackles - $150
Shock Relocation Mounts - $150
Shocks Procomp 12" - 15" - $250
Bushes - $25
Brake line - $50
Labour 2hrs @ $50/hr - $100

So providing your own springs you are up for $725

shit stuff is cheap in queensland
i just brought longer shackles and they where half your budget

Mate make them yourself, i just made some 200mm eye to eye shackles and the metal cost me $16 and a couple of hours work. Thats 50mm x 10mm plate 4 pieces at a total length of 260mm, and 2 bits of 50x50x3 SHS out of the $2 bin. Bolts will be a bit more on top of this but beats the inflated prices you pay for bought shackles.

as long as u have the right tools and have a fair idea of what u r doing, then this would be your cheapest option. but not everyone is confident enough to make there own suspension parts, so really its up to the person. to make there own and help they are good enough for the job, or pay the price and be 95% sure they will work well and are decently made (as in holes inline, decent welds, etc) and it takes no time at all. but if u are pretty confident then making ur own is the way to go

If you can construct a representation of a water molecule out of skewers and foam balls then shackles are a piece of piss E.G

O
/ \
H H

Good luck junior inventors and remmember drugs are only for big kids(except for Ritalin).

Aza wrote:

Drop Bear wrote:

roberts wrote:

bubs wrote:I have quickly done this run down for an idea of what it would cost to have a shop do it

Extended shackles - $150
Shock Relocation Mounts - $150
Shocks Procomp 12" - 15" - $250
Bushes - $25
Brake line - $50
Labour 2hrs @ $50/hr - $100

So providing your own springs you are up for $725

shit stuff is cheap in queensland
i just brought longer shackles and they where half your budget

Mate make them yourself, i just made some 200mm eye to eye shackles and the metal cost me $16 and a couple of hours work. Thats 50mm x 10mm plate 4 pieces at a total length of 260mm, and 2 bits of 50x50x3 SHS out of the $2 bin. Bolts will be a bit more on top of this but beats the inflated prices you pay for bought shackles.

as long as u have the right tools and have a fair idea of what u r doing, then this would be your cheapest option. but not everyone is confident enough to make there own suspension parts, so really its up to the person. to make there own and help they are good enough for the job, or pay the price and be 95% sure they will work well and are decently made (as in holes inline, decent welds, etc) and it takes no time at all. but if u are pretty confident then making ur own is the way to go

Yes very true, it helps having a pedistal drill, but if you take care to keep things matched up and triple check your measurements a hand drill will do. Im welding with an arc welder, just need to practice to get it right (this is where the $2 bin comes in handy also )

Aza wrote:

Da Lux wrote:and get bellied out on more things

1 inch doesnt really make a difference

makes tha same diff. on the deparch

Da Lux wrote:

Aza wrote:

Da Lux wrote:and get bellied out on more things

1 inch doesnt really make a difference

makes tha same diff. on the deparch

i think u mis the sarcasium in the part where i said gives a better depature angle which it does and i would prefer to have a longer wheel base to have a better departure angle cuase i dont like scrubbing my ass every where btw u can say that also about moving ur front axle forward, to get a better approach angle. works both ways. i know what i would prefer to have

haha alot of winks in this post, hopefully grimace dont get the wrong idea

Aza wrote:THE REAR DIFF WILL BE MOVED REAR WOULD, this is becuase of how the spring is made, u could redrill the perches but thats alot more work on top of that and it is not needed. the rear drive shaft does not have to be lengthened as the stock one is long enough to cater for the diff movement, its about 1-1.5" that the diff gets moved. just think.... gives u a better depature angle

So this means if you redrill the rear spring perches you could have this setup using a styleside tray without having to swap it over for a flat tray as the wheel will sit in the same spot?

Hybrid wrote:If you can construct a representation of a water molecule out of skewers and foam balls then shackles are a piece of piss E.G

O
/ \
H H

Good luck junior inventors and remmember drugs are only for big kids(except for Ritalin).

shoot hoops not drugs

whiteknight wrote:

Aza wrote:THE REAR DIFF WILL BE MOVED REAR WOULD, this is becuase of how the spring is made, u could redrill the perches but thats alot more work on top of that and it is not needed. the rear drive shaft does not have to be lengthened as the stock one is long enough to cater for the diff movement, its about 1-1.5" that the diff gets moved. just think.... gives u a better depature angle

So this means if you redrill the rear spring perches you could have this setup using a styleside tray without having to swap it over for a flat tray as the wheel will sit in the same spot?

its more work and really not worth it, a flat tray would give u a better departure angle anyway, it also increases the amount of panel u r going to smash

bubs wrote:I have quickly done this run down for an idea of what it would cost to have a shop do it

Extended shackles - $150
Shock Relocation Mounts - $150
Shocks Procomp 12" - 15" - $250
Bushes - $25
Brake line - $50
Labour 2hrs @ $50/hr - $100

So providing your own springs you are up for $725

what about if i provided my own shackles, my own shockies, and my own IFS springs? would that make it a bit cheaper?

De-lux wrote:

bubs wrote:I have quickly done this run down for an idea of what it would cost to have a shop do it

Extended shackles - $150
Shock Relocation Mounts - $150
Shocks Procomp 12" - 15" - $250
Bushes - $25
Brake line - $50
Labour 2hrs @ $50/hr - $100

So providing your own springs you are up for $725

what about if i provided my own shackles, my own shockies, and my own IFS springs? would that make it a bit cheaper?

I would presume so if you own long shocks already 12-15" long and have all the nessary tools to make the shackles

Aza wrote:

Da Lux wrote:

Aza wrote:

Da Lux wrote:and get bellied out on more things

1 inch doesnt really make a difference

makes tha same diff. on the deparch

i think u mis the sarcasium in the part where i said gives a better depature angle which it does and i would prefer to have a longer wheel base to have a better departure angle cuase i dont like scrubbing my ass every where btw u can say that also about moving ur front axle forward, to get a better approach angle. works both ways. i know what i would prefer to have

haha alot of winks in this post, hopefully grimace dont get the wrong idea

Nah was just mukin round