Outer Limits 4x4 Board

I have been thinking about what to do.. and I think I might remove the fan all together, and run a thermo that is pretty much bolted into the shroud.

this is what bundytime does, and is quite effective.

If you cant get an engine to run Cool with the factory fan no Electric thermo fan will makle a difference no mater how worked the engine is.
If the factory fan is in good working order and its still overheating look somewhere else dont waste your money on a Thermo fan that wont make a difference.


Do what every one else is suggesting go to toyota and buy the oil split the fan clean it out and replace the oil it is way cheaper than buying a thermo fan that is unreliable especialy in mud and water.
Also if you do still decide to buy a thurmo fan dont buiy a Davis Craig DCSL16 as they have a fully open motor behind the fan centre that will fill with mud and destroy its self in no time. All the other smaller fans run a near fully sealed motor that dont suffer as bad in muddy conditions.


But my advise is stick with the clutch fan as if the oil is fine in them they are the best fan for muddy and water conditions and very rarely fail.

Robbie,

The reason i can see why the fan spims freely and you can stop it when its hot could be due the outer case expanded slightly and also the silicon melting, when its cold the outer cools down and srinks and the silicon solidifies!

i have heard that removing the engine drivin fan and replacing it with a thermo gives a slight power increase.
any one now if this is true or just a load of bull shite

POS wrote:Robbie,

The reason i can see why the fan spims freely and you can stop it when its hot could be due the outer case expanded slightly and also the silicon melting, when its cold the outer cools down and srinks and the silicon solidifies!

All it has to do with is the oil has lost its Viscosity. Replace the oil and it will be fine.

killalux wrote:i have heard that removing the engine drivin fan and replacing it with a thermo gives a slight power increase.
any one now if this is true or just a load of bull shite

Fixed fan yes Viscous clutch fan on a stock engine little if any at all.

RUFF wrote:

killalux wrote:i have heard that removing the engine drivin fan and replacing it with a thermo gives a slight power increase.
any one now if this is true or just a load of bull shite

Fixed fan yes Viscous clutch fan on a stock engine little if any at all.

Even replacing a viscous fan you'd get a power increase. The only difference between a viscous and fixed fan is the viscous won't cool the engine as much (or drain as much power) until it's up to operating temperature. Once the engine's hot there wouldn't be too much difference in the operation (or power drain) between the two.

I've been toying with replacing the viscous fan on mine with a thermo for that reason.

murcod wrote:Even replacing a viscous fan you'd get a power increase. The only difference between a viscous and fixed fan is the viscous won't cool the engine as much (or drain as much power) until it's up to operating temperature. Once the engine's hot there wouldn't be too much difference in the operation (or power drain) between the two.

I've been toying with replacing the viscous fan on mine with a thermo for that reason.

Put your car on a Dyno and then tell me there is a noticable power increase. Dont beleive what is written anywhere in advertisement for electric fans. Its just like saying i noticed a great improvement in power when i fitted my 2 1/2 inch exhast to my stocko hyundai. Its loauder but its not improved.

hmm

a lot of different opinions on here..

turns out the radiator was shagged in serveral places.. that is sorted out.. now its on to the fan problem.

thermostat and radiator cap are also fine..

now on the problematic area.. figuring out whether I should change the clutch, put new oil, or bolt in a thermo..

few choices.

Firstly you are without a job at the moment right?
So i would try the $20 dollar fix first and buy some oil if it doesnt work then maybe buy the thermo fan but i would be realy surprised if the oil doesnt fix it.
Trust me fitting the oil a 10 year old could do it dont worry about anything comming out of the clutch when you unbolt it.
I have repaired more than 100 fans like this when i was working in automotive workshops.
Even the fully sealed Viscous fans can have the oil replaced it just a matter of carefully drilling a 1/8 hole in them and replacing the oil and then place a self tapping screw in the hole.

which toyota places sell this stuff?

is there anything else I can put in side the hub to fix it? or do I need that goo stuff that toyota sells?

Any Toyota Spare parts dealer should have this. Everyone uses it.
I have in desperation actually used Silicon to lock the fan up but i dont recomend it.
I have also seen Morreys and also grease used but they dont work as well as the silicon based oil.

RUFF wrote:Put your car on a Dyno and then tell me there is a noticable power increase. Dont beleive what is written anywhere in advertisement for electric fans. Its just like saying i noticed a great improvement in power when i fitted my 2 1/2 inch exhast to my stocko hyundai. Its loauder but its not improved.

So are you saying replacing a fixed fan will not give a power increase too? Just curious, as there is stuff all difference in operation between the two once the fluid coupling in a viscous fan is hot and locks up.

ok well

I will get this oil stuff tomorrow, and hopefully it works

if not, option #2 - get the thermo I have on offer ($75).

murcod wrote:
So are you saying replacing a fixed fan will not give a power increase too? Just curious, as there is stuff all difference in operation between the two once the fluid coupling in a viscous fan is hot and locks up.

The fluid coupling will only lock up compleatly(and even then not totaly) if the engine goes substatialy above running temp. Even with a good clutch fan and the engine at running temp if you hold the fan then start the engine it will not turn. I had a strap fitted to my 22R so i could lock the fan when going through deep water.

just had a crack at pulling the hub apart..

there are 4 screws holding it together, fark me these are the tightest screws I have ever tried to crack open..

got blisters on my hand from trying, and couldn't get them apart..

might have to drill them apart, and replace them with bolts...

Give them a hit with a hammer first it usually loosens them up or first grip them with a pair of side cutters or vise grips.

its hard working without a proper work bench or vice..

I work on the concrete, and it sucks :(

if I wreck these screws, whats the best way to get them out?

I got a feeling that I will screw them up..

Robbie, it's hard to visualise exactly what you're looking at (so excuse me if I'm way off the mark!), but try some WD40 or similar to help loosen them. If you butcher the heads you may be able to drill just the head off the bolt/screw which will enable you to pull it apart. Then you may be able to grip what's left of the screw shaft with vise grips and get them out that way.

try a 10 buck impact driver before you stuff the screws

I have tried putting a screw driver in them, and hammering the top to give them a knock. I have also used wd40 on them. I have even tried heating them as I thought they might have loctite in them. These things will not budge..

Gotta try vice grips or an impact driver

ok guys

update: MISSION ACCOMPLISHED

problem solved, no overheating, working fan, and radiator..

the goo stuff cost me $9.50 and fark me does it do a nice job..

thanks for the support dudes.. :wink:

Top Job!

how did you undo the screws?
did you clean out the old silicon or just add the tube?

robbie wrote:ok guys

update: MISSION ACCOMPLISHED

problem solved, no overheating, working fan, and radiator..

the goo stuff cost me $9.50 and fark me does it do a nice job..

thanks for the support dudes.. :wink:

Well what do you know i never would have thought that would have been the problem

umm, there was like.. piss all left of the old stuff in there, but it looked ok.. so just added the tube in

RUFF wrote:

robbie wrote:ok guys

update: MISSION ACCOMPLISHED

problem solved, no overheating, working fan, and radiator..

the goo stuff cost me $9.50 and fark me does it do a nice job..

thanks for the support dudes.. :wink:

Well what do you know i never would have thought that would have been the problem

haha

You realy should have cleaned it out first Robbie. Would you re-use a litre of oil you just drained out of your diff that has been in there since new if you didnt have enough for the oil change you were doing on it.


Oils all break down over time and are no longer suited to do there job. I would never mix old and new oils on something that doesnt just have a oil cap on the top.

Thank **** this saga is over!

RUFF wrote:You realy should have cleaned it out first Robbie. Would you re-use a litre of oil you just drained out of your diff that has been in there since new if you didnt have enough for the oil change you were doing on it.


Oils all break down over time and are no longer suited to do there job. I would never mix old and new oils on something that doesnt just have a oil cap on the top.

it works.. good as new

so I'm not complaining!