Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Defender kev,
Just on the GQ ones, please could you post some dimensions and also how you are going to mount them to the chassis and what to. I wanna make some for my GU. More pics would be great especially when theyre on. Thanks

If you want awsome protection underneath you could run it from one side to the other like this.




I welded a 3mm bash plate on the base. When on the truck it gives an nice flat surface and only sits about 2mm below the transmission cross member so I only loose about 5mm in clearance. Fairly heavy though but it's more than paid for itself already.

now that looks great, very strong and practical

except how heavy is it. With that much weight you might lose capability, as the lighter the 4by the better.

Wouldnt put that on mine but sure think it looks great

only prob i can see with your set up toughnut is you have reduced your clearance under the chassis. Since i have a 2" body lift i am going to lift the transmission and engine so that i can mount some 8mm plate in place of the stock crossmember leaving a strong flat surface 8mm lower than the chassis and flush with the slider mounts and it should give me a couple of inches of clearance compared to stock. Ive seen this on Stumpy's rig and it would work great.

Drop Bear wrote:only prob i can see with your set up toughnut is you have reduced your clearance under the chassis. Since i have a 2" body lift i am going to lift the transmission and engine so that i can mount some 8mm plate in place of the stock crossmember leaving a strong flat surface 8mm lower than the chassis and flush with the slider mounts and it should give me a couple of inches of clearance compared to stock. Ive seen this on Stumpy's rig and it would work great.

Only 5mm clearance loss.... no biggie !

Correct me if I'm wrong but, Thats 5 mm at the cross member, equates to about 25 elsewhere on the chassis. Nice tobaggon but - LOL

Toughnut, that looks sik! These ones i made myself from 65mm tube. Youve seen these b4 ben.

Mad Cruiser wrote:

Drop Bear wrote:only prob i can see with your set up toughnut is you have reduced your clearance under the chassis. Since i have a 2" body lift i am going to lift the transmission and engine so that i can mount some 8mm plate in place of the stock crossmember leaving a strong flat surface 8mm lower than the chassis and flush with the slider mounts and it should give me a couple of inches of clearance compared to stock. Ive seen this on Stumpy's rig and it would work great.

Only 5mm clearance loss.... no biggie !

Looks like about 40mm to me

Drop Bear wrote:

Mad Cruiser wrote:

Drop Bear wrote:only prob i can see with your set up toughnut is you have reduced your clearance under the chassis. Since i have a 2" body lift i am going to lift the transmission and engine so that i can mount some 8mm plate in place of the stock crossmember leaving a strong flat surface 8mm lower than the chassis and flush with the slider mounts and it should give me a couple of inches of clearance compared to stock. Ive seen this on Stumpy's rig and it would work great.

Only 5mm clearance loss.... no biggie !

Looks like about 40mm to me

yeah i'm with u on this one drop bear.

but never know might help him. could slide easier.

Yeah it's 40mm box that I've used and you guys are right that it is 40mm loss everywhere except at the sub tank and cross member. I don't want to do a body lift so the flat surface is a great benefit when winching over rocks, ledges and big ass boilers that event organisers put in your way. Another benefit is that when you launch over ledges with the front in the air and come down on the bash plate it transfers directly to the chassis. I've only used 3mm plate for underneath and this combined with the bracing is about the same weight as 8mm plate. I did think of doing this. The extra benefit of rigidity in the sliders is far better than mounting it to the side of the chassis as the force is transfered across the entire chassis. All up it weighs about the same as building seperate sliders and an 8mm bash plate but quite a bit stronger. I saw a couple of vehicles at OBC with damage underneath where they got caught up on an uneven surface. Having the weight under the middle of the truck makes it much more stable at speed and on slopes as well. The only thing that I need to change is a verticle plate on the front so crap doesn't sit on top of the plate. I'm thinking of extending it further to the rear to cover the sub tank and some stuff under the passenger side as well.

toughnut wrote:Yeah it's 40mm box that I've used and you guys are right that it is 40mm loss everywhere except at the sub tank and cross member. I don't want to do a body lift so the flat surface is a great benefit when winching over rocks, ledges and big ass boilers that event organisers put in your way. Another benefit is that when you launch over ledges with the front in the air and come down on the bash plate it transfers directly to the chassis. I've only used 3mm plate for underneath and this combined with the bracing is about the same weight as 8mm plate. I did think of doing this. The extra benefit of rigidity in the sliders is far better than mounting it to the side of the chassis as the force is transfered across the entire chassis. All up it weighs about the same as building seperate sliders and an 8mm bash plate but quite a bit stronger. I saw a couple of vehicles at OBC with damage underneath where they got caught up on an uneven surface. Having the weight under the middle of the truck makes it much more stable at speed and on slopes as well. The only thing that I need to change is a verticle plate on the front so crap doesn't sit on top of the plate. I'm thinking of extending it further to the rear to cover the sub tank and some stuff under the passenger side as well.

Im not having a go at your sliders mate they are very well designed and im sure they work very well, it was just the clearance i was talking about. The principle of spreading the force upon the whole chassis is a top idea, when i do the engine/trans lift i might actually weld the sliders to the bash plate rather than have them bolt on as it will spread some of the force into the bash plate. If you dont want to do a body lift then what i am saying isnt appropriate, something like yours would be much better.

Just explaining my train of though when designing the sliders Not saying it's better or worse, just that it works for my application and I haven't seen many like this on other vehicles.