Outer Limits 4x4 Board

hence the fact you have to grind them.

just had this mod carried out on my 97 mod 80's. also had the front calipers fully rebuilt after ceasing on me causing me to plough into the ass of a barina.

u need to machine the disk and as said b4 ditch the anti squeal shim. they will just fit by about 1/2 mm each side but they fit and improvement is well worth it. will post bendix part no soon for reference.

My 80 series has got slotted rotors and some sort of high performance pads. It stops very well. Don't know too much about the set up, it was on when I bought the truck but it stops better than my VS Commodore does.

Back on the brake issue again guys.
Drove my mates 100 series the other day with 35's and his brakes shit all over mine.
I know we have talked here about putting 100 series pads in the 80, but what about the whole brake caliper.

Do 100 series have larger pistons than 80's and how hard would it be to put some on.

I am on a quest for the ultimate braking power.
Burnsy.

Mate, i think it is more to do with the master cylinder of a 100 having an electric booster as opposed to vacuum boosting.
Wonder how hard one of them would be to fit up...probably easier buying a 100.
Andrew

Still would be interested to know if they have larger pistons and if they bolt on the 80's

Anyone know exactly the difference between 80 series and 100 series brake setups.

about 4 mths ago I replaced both discs and pads on the front of my 94 HZJ80. I used std discs for my year and model but I used 105 series pads. I also services the calipers by changing all seals in the calipers. The whole lot reassemabled with no problems (minus antirattle shims) and I did not have to grind anything.

Better braking??? not certain if any improvement was made but I think my back end is a bigger problem as the vehicle was lifted 6 inches by previous owner, but did not adjust the rear weight compenator thingy.

Snake racing also do DOT approved extended braided brake lines for about $140 a pair.

Hope this helps,
Stinger

Emo wrote:My 80 series has got slotted rotors and some sort of high performance pads. It stops very well. Don't know too much about the set up, it was on when I bought the truck but it stops better than my VS Commodore does.

Mine is the same. Came with DBA slotted rotors on it. You still have to push further on the pedal but it will look up and pull up no problems.

just had a major overhaul of my 94 HZJ80.

had a serious sand bogging a few months ago and didnt clean the brakes completely (note i did take all wheels off, but forgot to open the handbrake drums ) a little bit of sand/mud was left in the drums and this in turn destroyed the drums (sand rolling around in there=bad) IF YOU ARE HAVING PROBLEMS WITH YOUR HAND BRAKE CHECK YOUR DRUMS

BN repco drum/disk for the rear $60 each. Bendix hard compound pads $70 an end.

very happy with the result

does anyone know if a aftermarket transmission handbrake system is available for a 80 series. i just want to give someone the money, bolt it on and get rid of the always going to shit handbrake (yes, i drive in mud)


Cheers
Bluey

Bluey wrote:does anyone know if a aftermarket transmission handbrake system is available for a 80 series. i just want to give someone the money, bolt it on and get rid of the always going to shit handbrake (yes, i drive in mud)


Cheers
Bluey

Rally shops sell hydraulic handbrakes, they are not legal because a small leak can see them let go after a while.... but they work as good as the foot break, but only on the rears....

Best brakes for a 80 series believe it or not, is the 100 series calliper, but to fit that on, you need 100 hubs abd discs too which means 100 rims...front and rear...piston size is larger than 80 up front.

thanks mate.i thought it could be done with a cable to actuate it, but if not obviously i'm wrong. all that 100 series gear sounds like alot of work (and money but they're still making that).so you keep the diff housing but replace hubs, axles?, calipers and disks. any machining work to do? much work in the front?

Bluey wrote:thanks mate.i thought it could be done with a cable to actuate it, but if not obviously i'm wrong. all that 100 series gear sounds like alot of work (and money but they're still making that).so you keep the diff housing but replace hubs, axles?, calipers and disks. any machining work to do? much work in the front?

a hand brake needs to fail on application if its going to fail

IE, cable is more likely to fail as you pull the brake on etc.

With hydraulic you have the chance of a leak which will cause it to fail sometime later.

The reason behind this is, If you go to put your handbrake on and it fails on application, you wiont get out of the vehicle/walk behind it etc.

I think the mercedes van's use an electrick park brake, which uses an electric motor to wind the actuator in and out. This cant fail after application as it uses a worm drive system which is almost impossible to be driven from the load side of the gearset.

[quote="Bluey"]does anyone know if a aftermarket transmission handbrake system is available for a 80 series. i just want to give someone the money, bolt it on and get rid of the always going to shit handbrake (yes, i drive in mud)

I haven't investigated it yet but I was told that Hoppers stoppers in hoppers crossing vic sell a system like you have described i've got the day off so i might call in and ask some questions i'll post up what i find out

cheers mark

Just got off the phone with peter at hoppers stoppers apparently the tailshaft mounted disc handbrake won't fit the full time 4wd cruiser its designed for the 75/78/79 apparently they have a smaller gearbox . he said it might fit the part time 4wd 80s but wasn't really sure.

thanks for finding out Mark, pity it won't fit. i recently replaced all my handbrake parts, new drums, barke shoes and all springs and clips. adjusted it all and i now have a handbrake that will stop the car rolling away.

Just fitted the 105 series pads to the front of my 4/91 HZJ80. Outer pad just needed some relieving around the radius to clear the disc rotor hub. The inners needed a fair bit more relief in the same area. Very easy mod to do, only requires an angle grinder in addition to the normal brake pad change tools.