Outer Limits 4x4 Board

matsmad wrote:thanks heaps guys. Really useful info screwey, and nice pics. Lookin into it a bit more now. Good work

no problems

one thing kingy reminded me of...

with regards to brakes.

once castor is done, u might need to take your calipers off and sit them level as the angle they are on holds air in the corners... i found this out the hard way couldnt bleed em, had to handbrake stop her into town to get the brakes power bled.

heres a couple of pics of mine spring under axle...

running 35s in the pics but runs 36" simexs ok, reverse shackle front, 2" body lift, a few leaves out here and there but goes ok

Fair dinkum you guys carry on with some shite!!
Mine is SPOA, 35's, 2" body lift, no sway bars, no cut and swivelled hubs.

Drives excellent on road and is 100% street legal. I dont know what you are all doing wrong but well

DR Frankenstine wrote:Fair dinkum you guys carry on with some shite!!
Mine is SPOA, 35's, 2" body lift, no sway bars, no cut and swivelled hubs.

Drives excellent on road and is 100% street legal. I dont know what you are all doing wrong but well

uuummmm..... just providing tech i do beleive...... also mine and kingys and also marks all drive perfect on road and work offroad as well..... and marks and kingys are very similar to yours mods wise......

this isnt a thread to solve a problem cause someone has problems... its just a basic how to thread. nothing more.

You know as well as me Pete that it gets repetitive with the same questions over again..... but im happy to keep providing as much tech as i can even so.

screwy

Hi all. So in regards to the castor correction, is it needed or what?? If so, for the requirements below, should i set 7,8,9,10 or 11 degrees? Whats standard??

I'm starting to gather parts for an SOA, and i'll be using a spare set of diffs - which will allow for complete servicing/lockers/SOA (and fresh paint) to be done with no down time on the car.

I'll be using medium-heavy set springs (std height), std greasable shackles, no body lift, and it will see probly 50% road, 40% off road, 10% nasty stuff. Also does a bit of towing with motorbikes (and the many hilux's that get stuck too). Has to be comfy on the freeway, and predictable off road.

Also Kingy, who's good for engineers around central VIC?

Cheers,

Coxy

coxy321 wrote:Hi all. So in regards to the castor correction, is it needed or what?? If so, for the requirements below, should i set 7,8,9,10 or 11 degrees? Whats standard??

I'm starting to gather parts for an SOA, and i'll be using a spare set of diffs - which will allow for complete servicing/lockers/SOA (and fresh paint) to be done with no down time on the car.

I'll be using medium-heavy set springs (std height), std greasable shackles, no body lift, and it will see probly 50% road, 40% off road, 10% nasty stuff. Also does a bit of towing with motorbikes (and the many hilux's that get stuck too). Has to be comfy on the freeway, and predictable off road.

Also Kingy, who's good for engineers around central VIC?

Cheers,

Coxy

10 degrees will be fine for what your talking about....

engineers wise.. talk to cheezy in melbourne, he will know someone....

screwy

coxy321 wrote:Also does a bit of towing with motorbikes (and the many hilux's that get stuck too). Has to be comfy on the freeway, and predictable off road.

Also Kingy, who's good for engineers around central VIC?

Cheers,

Coxy

If u r towing, u will need a drop down (adjustable) tow bar. Mine is fixed and its way too high! Also, sits fine on the freeway, compared to lifted heavier springs on standard set up.

Nice. I've got a Hayman Reece setup. I'll just have one of the six inserts i've got adjusted to suit.

Thanks guys.

Coxy

coxy321 wrote:Hi all. So in regards to the castor correction, is it needed or what?? If so, for the requirements below, should i set 7,8,9,10 or 11 degrees? Whats standard??

Std is 3degrees.
The more angle you give it the more "bite" you get for offroad driving......the higher the angle means that the edge of the tire becomes the main gripping surface when turning is involved.

coxy321 wrote:I'm starting to gather parts for an SOA, and i'll be using a spare set of diffs - which will allow for complete servicing/lockers/SOA (and fresh paint) to be done with no down time on the car.

good move.

coxy321 wrote:I'll be using medium-heavy set springs (std height), std greasable shackles, no body lift, and it will see probly 50% road, 40% off road, 10% nasty stuff. Also does a bit of towing with motorbikes (and the many hilux's that get stuck too). Has to be comfy on the freeway, and predictable off road.

The heavy duty pak will allow you to remove leaves to gain more flex and lower the ride height. A new set + the SOA will lift the rig around 12" !!!!........ aim for a respectable 10" lift with the leaf removal for better flex and stability.

coxy321 wrote:Also Kingy, who's good for engineers around central VIC?

search the bibles....... theres a thread that lists all the engineers aust wide..... as for who's good and who's not...... their all under the watchfull eye so they are all about the same.

coxy321 wrote:I've got a Hayman Reece setup. I'll just have one of the six inserts i've got adjusted to suit.

the "adjustment" will be around a 10" drop !!! with that sort of length dont forget to brace it back onto the slipper tube or you'll bend it.

Kingy

as i have been told the mk-mq axels are a bit of a bastard to soa so im probly gunna look into a set of gq axels with the added bonus of gettin a bit more width .....thats my 2c..if any 1 has ne reasons y it wouldnt be a good idea let me know..please
Cheers Bourkey

rockrover wrote:as i have been told the mk-mq axels are a bit of a bastard to soa so im probly gunna look into a set of gq axels with the added bonus of gettin a bit more width .....thats my 2c..if any 1 has ne reasons y it wouldnt be a good idea let me know..please
Cheers Bourkey

good idea.... go coils in the rear while your at it

I was just thinking of coil springing mine...doesn't look all that hard. I don't have the tools to SoA my own truck so would have to pay for it. I am pretty sure I could get it coiled for not a lot more.

yeah id love to go coils think it bit too expensive tho if im rong let me kno id hav to hire a few tools for the job but hav the kno how altho i think would be a lil harder to engineer on coils than on leaves i may be rong
Cheers Bourkey

Hey V8patrol, after reading your members thread i think u use a stick
welder on the cast casing--is this right?

Also what problems occur when using a mig to weld on new perches?

as you can tell im fairly new to welding... i work with timber 9-5

mitch

Spartacus wrote:Hey V8patrol, after reading your members thread i think u use a stick
welder on the cast casing--is this right?

Also what problems occur when using a mig to weld on new perches?

as you can tell im fairly new to welding... i work with timber 9-5

mitch

mig is fine as well mate, its easier if anything

Screwy_ScrewBall wrote:

Spartacus wrote:Hey V8patrol, after reading your members thread i think u use a stick
welder on the cast casing--is this right?

Also what problems occur when using a mig to weld on new perches?

as you can tell im fairly new to welding... i work with timber 9-5

mitch

mig is fine as well mate, its easier if anything

ah good man screwy

If your new to welding, Just tack it all in place and take it to get welded properly. Better safe than sorry


Cheers

Spartacus wrote:Hey V8patrol, after reading your members thread i think u use a stick
welder on the cast casing--is this right?

Yes........
I used WIA rods and the class is a "16TC"rod, they provide a more suitable weld on the forged sections ( knuckle to diff tubes correction/alteration).
I used "castcraft" rods to weld on the spring pearch to the DRIVERS SIDE FRONT ONLY as the diff housing is cast iron and does not accept mig or std rods ........ only an idiot would attempt to weld this pearch with anything else as it is a receipe for disaster....... ( would you use clag to join two bits of timber ?? )
All other pearches/shock mounts/turning stops etc were done with mig.

With regard to the rod side of the welding process I used a DC welder as it gives a better flow / penetration over the AC welder and the DC welder does NOT need to be peened after welding, this inturn provides a far higher degree of structral strength ......... mighty important considering its a fairly major thing if a wheel/hub falls of @ 100kph !!!

30 odd years of welding teaches you a few DO's and DO NOT's

Spartacus wrote:Also what problems occur when using a mig to weld on new perches?

Mig is fine for the passengers side front, & the 2 rear pearches.
DO NOT USE MIG ON THE FRONT DRIVERS SIDE .

Spartacus wrote:as you can tell im fairly new to welding... i work with timber 9-5

mitch

I work with timber too ..............






Only I call it firewood


Do yourself a HUGE favor....... do a night time course in basic welding, it will save you heaps in the longrun & is a skill that you'll rely on for many years to come......
Self taught welders will spend hours re-welding the breakages only to see em break again.

Kingy

p/s
they invented mig welders so the average joe blow could join two bits of steel together without it looking like it had been parked in the chook pen for a few weeks
I have a SAF 320 mig @ work( its about half the size of a household fridge ) & it will happily blow holes in a 50mm thick plate....... I chew through 3 rolls of 1.2mm mig wire a week with it but whenever the chance arrises I'll head for the arc welder every time.... on average I'd use 5 paks or rods a week.....

phuk I'm glad I dont pay the electricty bill