Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Here's some of my bar as in other thread -

Used a 80 series radius arm, would have been more better to use a rangie, but it was free, so if it works, haven't used it wheelin yet, only weak spot will prob be the shackle mount to the chassis, as it was only done in a rush to get my car moved from house I was movin out of. This prob wouldn't fit in a Lux with standard fuel tank, I have a GQ tank in the rear.

customhilux wrote:

HUNTERLUX wrote:i was impressed it was soft & flexy but didnt bum hump like the 4 runner did & the runner was twin locked & twin transfered
i dont no weather it was the wrap bars doin but mine & the 4 runner didnt have 1 & we both bum humped

kewl, sounds like u have a winner drop bear.

Let me put it this way, i realised how bad the wrap really was after it broke, although i have only recently put 18mm blocks under the springs to bring it up to the correct height (18mm worth of missing leaves) so this is probably why the wrap is even worse. Definitely a must mod even if your running the full spring pack, its just so much more solid.

Heres some pics of the new and improved diff mount. Will be thoroughly testing it out over the weekend.

Here is a pic I found recently - it is off GADGET

thats one hell nice bit of fabrication

Shorty40 wrote:Here is a pic I found recently - it is off GADGET

do u have any more pics of this style of thing???

cant see that one breaking nice workmanship too

Shorty40 wrote:Here is a pic I found recently - it is off GADGET

I dont like it. If it had some slip (<----> movement) on each side it wouldnt bind. ATM it looks like it would bind easy.

hey looking at putting one of these one my lux does any one have any picks that the can post vecause al old ones are gone. any one now how it worked out eventualy.
any info on track bars appreciated.
thanx
mick

I know its a bit of a stretch considering the age of the thread, but any chance of getting some of the pics back up ?


Would be good in the Yota bible too if some pics came back.

i have made a new and improved one just recently for a guy off this board, rusty_burrows , maybe he can put up some pics.

Once i welded my old one on properly it was fine, still being abused to this day.

I can make you one for $270, extra if you want me to fit it.

Cool, would be interested to see some pics if they come up. Just fitted IFS springs and lift blocks and they are a little soft

Here are some pics...

Looks good, is that a slip joint in the middle? Is there a reason the top mount is so far back?
Nik

I have the same concept but a diferent design i will try and post some pics tomorrow. I have been out probly 10 time with it and it has stood up to any thing i can throw at it.

NIK wrote:Looks good, is that a slip joint in the middle? Is there a reason the top mount is so far back?
Nik

It isnt a joint in the middle its just 2 pieces of tube, one inside the other. It lets it slip in and out and rotate left and right. The further apart the mounts are the better it will stop rotation of the axle...within reason of course.

what do you guys think of the oztraks kit here: www.sjperformance.com.au - check out the PDF files for images on how it works. It mounts below the springs, but seems like a good idea - and wont snap welds off the diff, cos its bolt-on to the u-bolts for the leaves.

Thats what I ment, seems alot easier to allow slip/twist there than try to build the front mount to deal with it.
I cant put my top mount that far back as the centre nearly hits the tank as it is. But looks like a good design.
Nik

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=335637

Something to read.

Layto....

Here is the bar i knocked up if you can see past all the oil that is

-Richo- wrote:i have made a new and improved one just recently for a guy off this board, rusty_burrows , maybe he can put up some pics.

Once i welded my old one on properly it was fine, still being abused to this day.

I can make you one for $270, extra if you want me to fit it.

I need one to so if anyone could make and fit one on the Gold Coast for the same kind of $$$ i would be keen..

Mark..

If it helps, here are a couple I built a few years ago.

Jason

just to let you guys know thats my truck in the first lot of pics and that the trac bar is awesome and its a whole lot better to drive it now on and off the road and yet it doesnt bind up at all on flex not like the snake racing one would
cheers rusty

sorry to dig up an old thread, but its all i found really.

i might of missed it but.

where would the ideal location of the front pivot be when using a shakel setup up front, so that the pinion angle changes the least in comparison to the tailshaft angle?

does the top rod leangh matter? or the hight off the alxe housing?

and would flexing be harmed much if the mounts on the diff were not in the centre from left to right?

i think ive almost got it sorted if the Q's are aswered

cheer,s dan

mounting would be best as close to the center of the diff and with this design you do not need a shackle at the front as all movement is in the pipe inside another pipe best person to ask would be richo as he built my one and now my truck is so much better to drive and it was quick to install and not that dear
cheers rusty

yeah ok i was going to make one with the shakle as it would not bve any harder for me 2 make.

just need to know if it matters were th top bar runs to?

cheers,dan

hurricane wrote:yeah ok i was going to make one with the shakle as it would not bve any harder for me 2 make.

just need to know if it matters were th top bar runs to?

cheers,dan

Try to keep the bar reasonably flat if possible.
The cross member on the hilux should be reinforced (see jims comment re fish plate )

only thing is he is hurricane is adapting the hilux ideas to a 60series.

AcTioN13 wrote:only thing is he is hurricane is adapting the hilux ideas to a 60series.

Its the same basic principle regardless of vehicle application. The slip and twist option IMHO is just as good as a shackle, and is easier to package and make. Whatever you chose to attach it to on the chassis, just make sure its strong enough, adding some extra bracing/fish plating is not a bad idea while you are doing the work. Thinner housing can also tear open at the points where the track bar mounts attach. Try to keep the bar as long as you can, and as flat as possible without clashing with driveshafts or hindering ground clearance. The top bar length and angle does effect the way the rear end will handle, and can induce axle tramp (increases Anti-Squat). If you keep it as flat as possible and a decent length you should be okay.


Layto....

yes i was goin to run the top bar as flat as i could, it might mean that it will only be 2'' high off the diffhousing but that would be ok i guess?

then i was goin to try and run the top bar as long as the rear tailshaft and meet at the same point at were the unis are, if that makes sence?

so with my thinking, when the diff rolles it will always point the tailshaft at the back of the gearbox?

would it be best to run rose join at all 3 points? so when hte diff flex's it still has all it normal freedom.

cheers,dan