Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Sorry bout the whole PV thing . I'd only just got up and hadn'y had my coffee yet! I was just thinking American Feroza owner and PV was the frist to spring into mind.

Had a chat to a mate today and we're thinking something along the lines of picking up a written off rolled hilux or something like that and then doing a complete transplant. Icluding Diffs, Enging, Gearbox, etc, etc.


The research continues...

hahah... no offense taken....

dave, only one who is allowed to be called pv is ME!

kent, i'm in love with ur truck! i'll trade ya! you can have all the goodies on my truck and you would be able to start the project over again...

so, how about it?!

Dangerous Dave wrote:
First - Find a lux diff with the same ratio's as the Feroza Rear. Get it in the car with leaf spring suspension. To get it back on the road sometime soon. If I can't find a similar ratio, I'll buy a set of Lux diffs and stick one in the rear as well. At least then I'll be able to run lockers in front and rear! I'd still use the original motor, gearbox etc.

Second - Save some cash to get those nice fox shocks, and a motor like whats in the Bundeera's 2.4 TD. One the motors been bought I'll get rid of the leaf spring front and mod it all then. Hopefull I'll win the Lottery between now and then!

Thanks again and let the search begin.

Adam there will be a need for much spanner and beer passing so I'll hold you to that offer. I won't be drinkin while I work though. I do want by car to last a little longer than a day!

do you think your mota will cope with the hike (well numeric drop) in final drive ratio, i'm not knocking it, or even saying it can't, you know the motor better than i do, i'm asking your honest opinion.

i'll ask around about the "weaker" diff centers. i mean is a weaker hilux center still stronger than a ferroza center? who knows. i'll try to find out.

wrecked hilux: i know a guy that seems to have these turn up commonly... any particular year you want, or just one with solid front axles?

as for tool b!tch, i'm there. why do you think i own a 40, it's certainly not so i don't have to work on it . plus it's in my interests to get you out there in something mildly capable good to see your more sensible than the vic wrenchers, i know a few less than perfect ideas that came about after a few green tins. i can't weld, and i'm no master mechanic. but i can pull stuff apart, and tighten (heck i can use a torque wrench)

someone mentioned solid spacer. this gets my vote, i've had too many pinions etc die after the crush sleeve gets mangled by a less than gentle power application.

rebuilding the axle, well i should be profficient in that soon enough rebuild kits generally about 100-200 bucks, maybe a little more if wheel bearings are needed, but good insurance.

hope you've got a shed

planning on doing this?

http://www.outerlimits4x4.com/PHP_Modul ... ght=5+29+1

Dangerous Dave wrote:Adam, the track measurement for front and rear are both 1480mm according to the specs I can find on the internet however I have not actually measured this on my car.

Rock Monkey - I really don't mind welding new mounts etc on to the diff housing. I have a Mig welder and I'm not to bad at it. I'm not looking for a strait sub in however I don't want be shortening housings or driveshafts etc.

Chops - It happened yesterday (saturday). Mike (red bundeera), Adam (40 with Baja Claws), Jeff (biege 60 series) and myself went down there for a quick outing. I'd just fixed radiator hoses and alternator and now I have something new to fix. Yay.

Thats sucks, hope your not out of action for to long!

Chop

bad_religion_au wrote:the damage was at sheidow, the only other guys we saw out there were the two guys in a zook on 33 muddies.


but our crew was dave, me in my 40, jeff in his 60 series, and that guy in the bundera that always forgets my name, and i forget his...
same spot claimed my 40's cv, but i was driving back down it at the time

how about a rocky front diff?

only thing with going to lux axles is that you'll lose alot of clearance under the pumpkin...

What part of the track was that?

And what is this zook like ? Ive heard of it being down there a few times now. I missed it again!
I havent seen another zook down there yet.

Chop

Might have to come down for a look again.

All of this shaving, rebuilding, rebearing, measuring, scale diagram talk is making me naucious! I'm the kind of guy that gets the parts, sticks them into place roughly, looks for any problems that may be encountered, rectify said problems and then welds it all up. Is this a bad thing??

The later model HiLux the better. That way all parts should still be in good condition and bearings etc won't need replacing. I only replace things when they're broken. If it ain't broke don't fix, as they say. I don't care what condition the body's in just as long as engine, gear box and running gear are still there and still intact. Don't care if its petrol or diesel either. Anythings got more grunt than the 1.6!

Adam, I dont recon the 1.6 would fare too well against the new Lux diffs, so if I do it, I'll probably be doing the donk at the same time. It looks like it will be 2WD for a while. I can still have fun with 2WD

Murcod, make sure you don't go down there with out me. I never see any daihatsu's down there so it will be nice to have another family member to wheel with.

Dave, the last thing I wish to do is burst your your SAS bubble.

Just dont get carried away.

You still need to get it enginered after youve spent the big $$$.

bad_religion_au wrote:i'll ask around about the "weaker" diff centers. i mean is a weaker hilux center still stronger than a ferroza center? who knows. i'll try to find out.

Think that 5.71's and 5.29's are weak? Read this:

http://zukaz.tripod.com/410suck.htm

No SimplyPV you can't have my truck.

Sorry I made you sick Dave. I keep forgetting that over here the last year for Toyota solid axles was 1985. You guys have them through 1998? With 5.71's and 33" tyres I had more power than with (stock Feroza) 5.29's and 31" tyres using the stock 1.6L engine.

Toyhatsu wrote:

bad_religion_au wrote:i'll ask around about the "weaker" diff centers. i mean is a weaker hilux center still stronger than a ferroza center? who knows. i'll try to find out.

Think that 5.71's and 5.29's are weak? Read this:

http://zukaz.tripod.com/410suck.htm

The reason i said weaker is in comparison to an 8" hilux diff, the Hiace 5.29 has a smaller pinion gear, and the ring gear is smaller in dimension aswell. Note i am only comparing factory Toyota diffs, aftermarket R&P's may be different.


I personally would not worry about the strength, unless going to run considerably larger tyres, as they can't be any worse then the front diff of a Feroza.

I went back and reread the original post r0ck_m0nkey. I understand now.

I had a stock third going out on me but never broke one. Daihatsu USA wanted $950.00 about five years ago for the front third. Couldn't find one in a salvage yard as all of the running gear seems to get sold first. I took out a loan and went with the toy solid axles.

I was thinking after the engine, tranny swap that the 5.71's were too low. Having driven it for a while now I may keep them. I go through the gears pretty fast but it's really not too bad in the city or on the highway.

Geez, I gotta get a life and quit working on me truck and hanging around here

ok this is from a yota idiot, but

i assume the front diff is solidly mounted (the stock IFS diff)

if so, your driveshaft wouldn't have a slip yolk in the middle of it would it? so another thing on the list would be driveshafts???

correct me if i'm wrong

Adam, you are correct that there is no slip yolk, however there is a little bit of room to play with where the shaft goes into the transfer case but not much. By the sounds of it Toyhatsu got away with it

hmmm interesting.

i know a few hilux's that run out of slip in a 6 inch long yolk without too much effort in the front springs, guess it's a matter of how flexy it's going to be... but you can cross that bridge when you get to it

I can see this being one big headache. It may be easier to just buy a 40!

Dangerous Dave wrote:I can see this being one big headache. It may be easier to just buy a 40!

don't ever say that again

simple, hilux diffs, make spring mounts, adapt steering, and sort out the driveshaft.

Toyhatsu wrote:Geez, I gotta get a life and quit working on me truck and hanging around here

Wheeling is a way of life.

rOd wrote:

Toyhatsu wrote:Geez, I gotta get a life and quit working on me truck and hanging around here

Wheeling is a way of life.

I suppose you are right rOd...I should just suck it up and learn to live with who I am.

Dave: I never had a problem with the slip yoke falling out. With the 12" of front wheel travel I have now I am only using about an inch and a half of the splines. I was told when I bought a very long splined drive shaft from a salvage yard for the front: "If the suspension is set up correctly you only need a couple of inches for 12-18" of wheel travel"...I resplined that drive shaft to only four inches and don't use half of it. See ramp pic that I did gain consideralbe travel.

Dangerous Dave wrote:Adam, you are correct that there is no slip yolk

Yes Feroza's have slip yokes and not a splined drive shaft. A lot of Jeeps use slip yokes also but there are slip yoke elininator kits for them. The yokes are where the U joints are.

I am telling you that it will work using the Daihatsu engine, transmission and transfer case with Toyota solid axles. I drove mine for five years like that.

Jeez your car looks great Kent!

I think its time to post up some action shots !

i can't remember who ran it on leaves at first, but which end was the shackle?

i agree a good link setup will allow you heaps of travel with minimal spline use, but if you setup the front like a standardish hilux, with the shackles at the back of the front springs (i.e. under the body, not sticking out the front) that setup uses a faira mount of spline on the driveshaft

Adam he had his shackles up the front. I think I'll be doing the same.

that might solve some headaches