Outer Limits 4x4 Board

the back hole will have a piece of sheet welded back in its place and the front hole i can get to already

christover1 wrote:best not to cut floor, as it weakens structure and won't pass engineer or rwc. If thats an issue.
It does depend on type of bl.
Mine is box section steel, so I bolted top to body and bottom to chassis, just on those captive bolts.
threaded blocks is best idea on those pesky bolts, I think.
I do like NUGGS forementioned idea, too.
christover

I'd thaught of using box section with captive nut in top , bolt in bottom and the open sides plated.
Christover looking at your PS pictures I was wondering how much lift you running - body ,spring & shackle do I recall corectly your rolling on 33's .I want to allow for future mods when I build my "roof rack" with integral sliders , wheel & jerry can carrier etc.

Wow talk about making a hard job of the easiest thing ,drive in drive out 50mm taller in under 90 min no drilling welding or cutting. Just wondering how long and painfull is that mod

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I have a question before i start drilling, im going to drill the old bolts out and install new high tensile items. Im just wondering, for the 10mm captive bolt in the body, it has a 16mm or so head on it thats welded in, if i drill this out to 16mm and install a new 10mm bolt with washer, wont this still slop round in hole?
If so i was thinking of welding a small piece of 4mm metal with a 10mm hole in it under the body where the drilled out 16mm hole is, so it doesnt slop. Would that work?

nd painfull is that mod

Dont know what youre doing to get it done in that time, but ive spent ages on doing this, as i hate doing things a second time, so i do it properly first time.

At the moment im cutting some large washers to shape as reinforcement over the holes from the captive bolts i drilled out.
Should be finished this avo.

Suziwest do a body lift kit designed to use all existing studs and hardware there is simply no comparison on the market that comes close it