Outer Limits 4x4 Board

Well I have been given a set of 80 series shocks & coils (thanks Rob) and Big GQ has given me his old radius arms to experiment with. Hopefully it wont be a very expensive conversion.

I would like to thank everyone for their advice. I totally agree that a triangulated 4 link or a 5 link will work much better than this radius arm setup.

I am not after the massive flex a 4 or 5 link will give me neither do I have the room to install it. I have 2x 85 litre fuel tanks plus a 90ish litre water tank and toolboxes that limits the amount of room I have to play with. After all this is still a work ute, that doubles as a get away machine.

The other benefit of a radius arm setup is that it uese all standard off the shelf parts that have been proven, so the engineer is much happier approving it over a full custom jobbie. It is also much easier to source parts if I am in the middle of nowhere.

JemmyBubbles wrote:This 3link radius arm design can only flex soo much. That bind up much earlier during cycling than others. But I agree with grimace they can be made to be usefull... but only so much. Get the Rear Flexing well..

Holey bushes I tell you ! Holey Bushes

Tom

RaginRover wrote:

JemmyBubbles wrote:This 3link radius arm design can only flex soo much. That bind up much earlier during cycling than others. But I agree with grimace they can be made to be usefull... but only so much. Get the Rear Flexing well..

Holey bushes I tell you ! Holey Bushes

Tom

only prob bein its abit expensive to be replaceing 8 holey bushes every six months

Mytqik wrote:Well I have been given a set of 80 series shocks & coils (thanks Rob) and Big GQ has given me his old radius arms to experiment with. Hopefully it wont be a very expensive conversion.

I would like to thank everyone for their advice. I totally agree that a triangulated 4 link or a 5 link will work much better than this radius arm setup.

I am not after the massive flex a 4 or 5 link will give me neither do I have the room to install it. I have 2x 85 litre fuel tanks plus a 90ish litre water tank and toolboxes that limits the amount of room I have to play with. After all this is still a work ute, that doubles as a get away machine.

The other benefit of a radius arm setup is that it uese all standard off the shelf parts that have been proven, so the engineer is much happier approving it over a full custom jobbie. It is also much easier to source parts if I am in the middle of nowhere.

I was headind down this path a while ago.

For an easy setup use the 80 series gear on the rear.I'm about to do this setup for a mate, he wanted to keep his tank in the right place and still get the ride of a coil sprung rig.

and as you know
5 link front or rear are sh!t. they have the same number of attachments to the diff as a 3 link ( they still bind up!)(An even number (4) of points does not allow for twisting where as an odd number (4 link) has 3 major attachments on the diff allowing the twist motion, better travel. the only advantage a 5 link has over the rest is that it keeps the correct castor angle (with both wheels going into the guards at the same time)
And yes the 80 series, patrol, RR, 3 links do bind and are very limited to travel.

My rig is running radius arms on the front and i can get full travel on the longest rancho's.

The design that Glenn has come up with allows a standard 80 or patrol to flex as much or even more than a 5 link. and is 1000 time easier to setup than a 5 link( you retain all original gear) just add glen’s design.


I know you want to be able to keep your tank and gear on the rear, so as far as ride and comfort is Concerned the 3 link is the way to go, But if you wanted travel with no binding and still want a 3 link give Glenn or myself a ring.

I can design a kit for the rear of your rig that uses Glenn’s x link design and all you would use as arms would be a set of 80 series arms and panard.

Something to think about.

Chad

All great replies, I appreciate the information.

I was 100% sold on the radius arm idea until I had a chat to 2 engineers up here on what would be required to pass it & then the insurance company.

The upshot of it all is that I am far far far better of putting greasable pins/shakles, new bushes & reducing the number of springs in my pack & adding polyairs, than I am to do the conversion. Just way to much time/$$$ to justify the outcome.

It is disapointing, but maybe it will give me the motivation to save up for that GU ute, & then I already have coils & don't need to worry about engineers & insurance issues.

Thanks again, hopefully it has been of some benefit to others.

I will let you the results of